timing chain replacement necessary ? and question on ARP hardware

techi14

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Hi guys,

just got an 03 sonic blue vert with 18k miles. Unfortunately has the head tick. I am pulling the engine and changing the head with a 9 thread from an aviator and doing the cooling mod. Also adding arp studs and using felpro gaskets all around.

Do I need to change the timing chain components or can I reuse?
Also
Looking at the arp head studs and there are 2 options, one with a 12pt and one with a hex nut. Any advantages to either?

thank you much!
 

ShootyMCstabby

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Apr head studs.
The 12 point has more contact area, also more torque can be applied. The 12 point is smaller then the 6 point(HEX) so if in tight area's a 12 point will be easier to get to.

So it seems people go with the 12 point over 6(hex) but main gripe about the 12 point is the socket. I have done 3 sets so far and all have been the 12 point studs.
 

techi14

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Copy that. Probably going with the 12 points, they are also cheaper than the hex. I'll just get a nice 12 point deep socket make sure it holds it good.
 

ctgreddy

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zero reason to replace the chain. OEM chains are very strong and with 18k miles there wont be any stretch. I just had mine off this winter and reused them, I'm over 100k hard miles. All personal preference on the 12pt vs 6. I like the 12 as like stated you get more contact area. Other things to consider, stock cam gear bolts are torque to yield, so get new ones or replace with arp, if you do arp torque to atleast 100ft lbs with loctite, but arp bolts for those aren't necessary.

Also oil pump gears. If you have some extra funds get a set of billet gears. TSS imo are the best, they make them for a lot of the bigger companies you'll see. But I've seen a lot of people use boundary gears and they're a bit cheaper, yet ive seen zero issues.
 

wkornf

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I'm curious about the head stud install, can you do the whole job with the motor in car or do it you plan to pull the motor?

do you have longtubes? will make it challenging for sure

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jrgoffin

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I'm curious about the head stud install, can you do the whole job with the motor in car or do it you plan to pull the motor?
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Studs thread in just like bolts - common sense. Just because someone on a forum years back did a build where they threaded all the studs in before setting the head down doesn't mean that is the way to do it. The blocks have locating dowels on them so you can set the head down, then install the studs/bolts - engine in or out.

With the Aluminator I built, I used two at each corner - just in case the head slipped out of my hands. The herd mentality scares people with these, but there is nothing to it. Plenty of build details, along with all the internal upgrades, in my sig.

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