Thoughts on this drag setup?

Max97COBRAtkd

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Thinking of pulling the trigger on some 15x10 Weld RT-S rears and Hoosier DOT 315/60-15 drag radials to run this year. I have a full tilt boogie built IRS but stock half shafts. RXT and 26 spline input already done with a carbon fiber driveshaft. Don't want to do a full big/little setup really right now and also don't want to mix radials and bias plies.

Thoughts on if this setup will give me enough tire/sidewall to keep my half shafts alive this year? I don't really get any wheel hop or much spinning for that matter on the street right now with my Toyo TQ drag radials. I'm at 722rwhp/665rwtq currently.

IMG_20180216_132251.jpg


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UnrealSVT

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Thinking of pulling the trigger on some 15x10 Weld RT-S rears and Hoosier DOT 315/60-15 drag radials to run this year. I have a full tilt boogie built IRS but stock half shafts. RXT and 26 spline input already done with a carbon fiber driveshaft. Don't want to do a full big/little setup really right now and also don't want to mix radials and bias plies.

Thoughts on if this setup will give me enough tire/sidewall to keep my half shafts alive this year? I don't really get any wheel hop or much spinning for that matter on the street right now with my Toyo TQ drag radials. I'm at 722rwhp/665rwtq currently.

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From what I understand, you're going to want to run a 28" tire. Also, 16" is the smallest you can go without modification. 15" there will be some grinding involved.

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Max97COBRAtkd

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A 315/60 is a 30" tire........it won't fit. You need to rethink your plan.

--Joe
Hmmm, well damn. Any thoughts on a good wheel/radial that would work for what I'm wanting? Would like to be able to get a little bit more sidewall than what a 17" rim can offer but weld doesn't make a 16" RT-S. I have 18" SP500's as pictured right now and just want a little bit more precaution for the half shafts. Or you think just try it on my current setup first?

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UnrealSVT

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Hmmm, well damn. Any thoughts on a good wheel/radial that would work for what I'm wanting? Would like to be able to get a little bit more sidewall than what a 17" rim can offer but weld doesn't make a 16" RT-S. I have 18" SP500's as pictured right now and just want a little bit more precaution for the half shafts. Or you think just try it on my current setup first?

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M&H Racemaster has several 18" tires. Hoosier DR would work...other than that...you've already got decent tires from Toyo so, run then and see how they do in warmer weather. Could always get a new set of 17" rear weld wheels, and get a bit more sidewall, but that's more $$$$...

Here is a pic of the 18" tires from M&H...
cbc29fbd15c27f752f54e3f64c4402ec.jpg


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ITSTOCK

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Get them in 17" and use the 17" Hoosier slick. The drag radial will eat the half shafts.
 

Max97COBRAtkd

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Get them in 17" and use the 17" Hoosier slick. The drag radial will eat the half shafts.
Was trying to avoid having to get front runners too though. I have the Wilwood 6 piston 14" brake kit in front and would have to get some larger, more expensive front runners if I go bias ply. That would definitely be optimal but wasn't really wanting to spend that much to just take the car to test n tune a couple times this summer.

Anyone have experience with the IRS and some of these bigger side wall drag radials? Or does it not matter and if I want to run it, just get the full drag setup and go bias ply? If that's the case, I may go a different route this year and just do a couple small mods to save up for next year.

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Stage 4.6

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There's several guys on here running a 15in setup, ive herd of having to grind some components but i thought that depended on the wheel type being used?
I am thinking about going 15in as well with a 27-28in tire.
 

svt_snapp

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My setup
Front: Wheels = Welds RTS 17 x 4.5 2.2 back spacing
Tires = Mickey Thompson Sportsman SR 26 x 6 -17

Rear: Wheels = Welds RTS 15 x 10 6.5 back spacing
Tires = Hoosier QTP 26 x 11.5 - 15

I had to get Stainless steel brake lines and grind on toe rods & knuckle to get the 15s to fit. Also had to barely grind the banjo bolt and the parking break cable as well. So far I have had zero issues. All grinding was done in November of 2016.

So far I like the QTPs but only have about 5 track passes on them.
 

Soap

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ive herd of having to grind some components but i thought that depended on the wheel type being used?

If you are still on the IRS you need to grind to fit a 15" wheel. Manufacturer doesn't matter, 15" diameter is 15" diameter.

--Joe
 

Stage 4.6

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If you are still on the IRS you need to grind to fit a 15" wheel. Manufacturer doesn't matter, 15" diameter is 15" diameter.

--Joe
So even if we use the RTS 15in wheel? Those mentioned components have to be grinded? If so that sucks, i really dont want to grind on my car. That was the only reason i had my 17x9.5 Drag stars on the market.
 

Soap

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So even if we use the RTS 15in wheel? Those mentioned components have to be grinded? If so that sucks, i really dont want to grind on my car.

I don't think you understand. A 15" wheel measures 15" regardless of who makes the wheel.

If you don't want to grind the knuckle etc, then you should look into 16"-17" rear wheel/tire combos.

--Joe
 

Stage 4.6

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I don't think you understand. A 15" wheel measures 15" regardless of who makes the wheel.

If you don't want to grind the knuckle etc, then you should look into 16"-17" rear wheel/tire combos.

--Joe

My bad! i thought the RTS wheel was designed for the IRS, haven't read of many people grinding for this setup, I guess ill have to look into a 16in wheel. I already have a 17in drag setup, just trying to get a taller wheel.
Thanks for the info.
 

trmnator

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I use 17x11 Billit Specialty's wheels with 5.5 back space and MT 305x45x17 rubber. 28x10.5. N2MB 2 step with shift control and 4000rpm launch. Clutching is the important thing. Shock load breaks any drive train. A little load against the line lock and lift your foot up, no side stepping. Never wipes her feet. The car is IRS
 

P49Y-CY

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