Thermostat & Cooling System: Reische Performance

[01cobravortech]

Actually just removed one of your earlier prototypes from my car today Joel.

We had a real bad heatwave last week and in some really long bumper to bumper traffic, in about 101F weather, was seeing coolant temps at about 108C. Too be expected though with virtually no air flow coming through. Did stay steady at 93C - 94C when I got back to highway speeds above 70mph. So in that kind of heat even your earlier prototype delivered the goods. :beer:

Noticed your new t-stat has a much thicker spring and the top is quite different. And IIRC, you indicated it would provide some better cold weather performance. So definitely anxious to see if there's a noticeable or measurable improvement in temp reduction.

Can't thank you enough for bringing this product to the Terminator community. Far cheaper mod than going with the unreliable aftermarket radiators that don't even cool as well your t-stat does buddy. :thumbsup:

 

[jm@ReischePerf]

Thanks for the kind words! You've always been a strong supporter from the beginning... I really appreciate that. :beer:

 

[DE07GT]

Finally discovered the root of the problem on my car and you were right. Dropped the engine and pulled the heads. Combustion gases were getting into the cooling passages and creating the air bubble at the thermostat that kept it from opening.

 

[SL0BRA650]

Might be a "Newbie" question here but I wanted to ask before I purchase, With this 170 T-Stat, am I able to run 50/50 coolant mixed with water wetter?

 

[jm@ReischePerf]

Might be a "Newbie" question here but I wanted to ask before I purchase, With this 170 T-Stat, am I able to run 50/50 coolant mixed with water wetter?

You can certainly run any coolant mix you want with any thermostat but I wouldn't use Water Wetter with that much antifreeze in the mix. Some people have had issues with precipitants forming in the coolant at normal concentrations plus it's kind of defeating the whole purpose of using it to begin with.

 

[CrispyBacon]

what is the difference between the 2V stat and the 4V stat. visually its hard to split them

 

[jm@ReischePerf]

4V first 2V 2nd.

 

[jm@ReischePerf]

The primary differences being that the coolant on the 4V flows out from the side to the block and and comes in from the radiator on the top and from inside the bypass tube on the bottom. The 2V coolant current flow is reversed with the hot coolant coming in from the side and either being directed out the top to the radiator or bottom to bypass.

 

[CrispyBacon]

I show both a RT1110 and a RT1168(I work for a motorcraft supplier). Both look similar to the first pic which Is correct

I was thinking the RT1110 was for 2V but that's obviously not the case

 

[jm@ReischePerf]

I show both a RT1110 and a RT1168(I work for a motorcraft supplier). Both look similar to the first pic which Is correct

I was thinking the RT1110 was for 2V but that's obviously not the case

Yes I believe the RT1110 is the 190 degree version for the 4V.

 

[CrispyBacon]

yup just figured that out

 

[jm@ReischePerf]

Hot-Side vs Cold-Side Thermostat Operation

Thought I'd repost this here just for reference.

So in the hot-side system the thermostat is placed pre-radiator: coolant flows in from the side (GREEN/RED) and, depending on it's temp, coolant is directed either up to the radiator to be chilled or if the coolant is not hot enough, the thermostat stays closed and the coolant is directed down through the bypass to recirculate. Of course the thermostat will often run partially open, directing a little coolant to both paths.

In the cold-side system coolant flows the opposite direction and the thermostat is post-radiator: Unlike a hot-side thermostat, the bypass control (brass bottom) is not attached to the upper assembly/diaphragm and does not move when the thermostat opens. It maintains contact so the bypass coolant can only flow up through the inside of the pipe, keeping the heat motor in direct contact with the bypass coolant temperature so the thermostat can function properly at all times. When the bypass coolant is hot enough the thermostat opens (bringing in chilled coolant from the radiator - BLUE); this also pushes the heat motor further down into the pipe which closes off the holes in the pipe for the bypass (RED) and shields it from the chilled coolant. However a small amount of bypass coolant is allowed to flow across the heat motor at all times so it can still monitor and respond to changes in the coolant temp.

A hot-side thermostat can function in a cold-side setup to a large degree but there are some drawbacks: When the thermostat opens some of the chilled coolant will mix in and expose the heat motor to cooler temps then it should be seeing to operate properly. Cooler temps then force the thermostat to start closing prematurely and once this happens, the hot bypass coolant will then start to make it open back up... and the cycle repeats. Another issue is the thermostat will always struggle to stay fully open because as soon as the bypass is completely shut off, the heat motor will no longer be exposed to hot coolant, forcing it to close again. One competing product attempts to address this by placing 4 holes in the bypass valve but then you always have a good amount of coolant recirculating through the bypass instead of being directed through the radiator as it should be.

In my own real world testing with a hot-side thermostat in a cold-side application I found the primary drawback was the way it handled changing conditions. You could see a nice stable temp cruising down the freeway but as soon as you exited and started slowing down to a stop the temp would immediately spike up and it took a little time for it to re-stabilize and cool back down.

 

[Bigggy]

Just received mine, can't wait to do install!

 

[hob]

I've installed my new 170 thermostat but should the upper radiator hose be hot prior to 170 degrees?

 

[jm@ReischePerf]

I've installed my new 170 thermostat but should the upper radiator hose be hot prior to 170 degrees?

I'm assuming you're talking about when burping the system? Not really... it may get lukewarm but when the thermostat starts to open the temp of the hose will increase noticeably.

 

[04cobruh]

Just ordered mine. Can't wait to see the difference. Just in time before sacramento's hot summers.

 

[jm@ReischePerf]

...

 

[Eric Garttner]

Wow 2009 this thread started. I've been doing my research on tstats recently as I'm finishing up this winters mod list. Just trying to do any cheap things I can with leftover cash.

Definitely grabbing one of these off lethal tomorrow!


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

 

[jm@ReischePerf]

Yes, we've had this thread going almost since the beginning. Thanks for your support and let me know if you have any questions.

 

[GotThree]

Keeping this thread current. Installed the 170 stat a few weeks ago. Works just as advertised. Opens more quickly than the stock thermostat and temps are as expected. Followed the provided burping procedures with zero issues. Great product!