Ok, done. Hope to get word soon.
The skinny on the Inexpensive Hop Fix
- Thread starter dougwg
- Start date
OK, so I'm cheap!
I'm going to ask the magic question. I don't know if I expect a solid answer but, here goes.
How many of these mods, shocks with adapters, IRS bushings, braces, etc. do I need to do to make my wheel hop go away?
To qualify this a bit, I have a stock 03 coupe with origonal F1s. I want to make horsepower mods, but not until the hop is gone.
Before you all slam me, I have read and searched many of these forum topics. I just want a clear answer if there is one?!? :shrug:
I'm going to ask the magic question. I don't know if I expect a solid answer but, here goes.
How many of these mods, shocks with adapters, IRS bushings, braces, etc. do I need to do to make my wheel hop go away?
To qualify this a bit, I have a stock 03 coupe with origonal F1s. I want to make horsepower mods, but not until the hop is gone.
Before you all slam me, I have read and searched many of these forum topics. I just want a clear answer if there is one?!? :shrug:
From what I have read these cars are all diffrent from the motor to the drivetrain to the suspension. Hell wheels dont even fit the same on these cars. It's like they where put together by hand with diffrent tolerances for each vehicle. So to sum up your question no there is no clear way to stop the hop you just have to start small/cheapest fix and work your way up.
BIGV said:
Where's my magic answer :mj: , I figured as much.
Well where is the cheapest place to start? Bushings are my guess. :??:
BIGV said:
The parts that matter most, bushings (all), shocks and subframes do not work alone. You need to take the SYSTEM approach. There is simply no other way. The only difficult mod is the IRS/LCA/UCA/Diff bushings and you and a few friends can knock out that job in one day. Everything else is 1 hour ea job tops.
Read my sig link for a few more thoughts.
Tinman said:
http://67.15.62.79/forums/showpost.php?p=1919462&postcount=135
solid answer
oke: READ NOOB!
How much is the complete set of IRS/UCA/LCA & Diff bushings from Nick? Those are the recommended ones, right?
Tinman said:
I have a KB with subframes, MM C/C plates, h&r ss springs and nitto drag radials and my car flat hooks in 2nd @ 4500. I can't lace into it in first but if i gradually press down on the throttle the car hooks. first thing i did to my car was the subframes and it made a huge difference. the car felt much stiffer with them in.
Tinman said:
Those are the only ones I reccomend, you will also need Maximum Motorsports IRS subframe bushings. http://www.maximummotorsports.com/mmirsu.asp
He is not a sponsor on this site so you need to email him, [email protected]
I guess I've accepted that to fix this I will have to spend some money. I can't tell you all how bad I feel toward Ford over this and "the clunk". I've owned nothing but Mustangs for the last 20 plus years. I grew up with Mustangs. None of my other cars have acted like this. Then again, none of them came with close to 400 hp, handled this well or braked like this either. ;-)
postban said:
OK, Wow, those MM IRS bushings are the cheapest things I've seen yet for a Cobra. I was beginning to think I was going to have to pawn something to get rid of the hop.
Tinman said:
Some people report no hop with just Drag Radials.
IRS bushings, Drag Radials and Subframes did NOTHING for my vert. It would have needed the rest to get rid of the hop.
MOST important is the most difficult, full bushing set. However that must be backed up with shocks and subframes.
All the contact info is there for you to get prices. It will only be over 1K$ if you hire it done (if you do not buy upgraded halfshafts)
Tinman said:
instead of doing piece by piece like what I've done, I would recommend just getting the: IRS subframe bushings, Control Arm bushings, Differential bushings, and the IRS bracket reinforcement plate done all at once. obviously subframe connectors are mandatory whether you have wheelhop or not.
as far as shock/springs, I dont believe you need it as long as you take out the complience that causes the wheelhop.. but it will definatly help if the spring rate/damping is increased
Check this out NOW - BOTH my Strange shocks failed today at the lower weld.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1972908
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1972908
Tinman said:OK, Wow, those MM IRS bushings are the cheapest things I've seen yet for a Cobra. I was beginning to think I was going to have to pawn something to get rid of the hop.
They are not expensive, but a major PIA to install. Helps if you have a lift. I paid a shop $295 for 5 hours labor. From what I have seen in other posts, that amount of time is very reasonable.
After 800 Miles...a Strange Shock Broke!!!!
WTF!!!!!!!!!
I drove my Cobra yesterday and noticed a sloppiness in the rear suspension along with a mysterious clunking noise.
One of Strange shocks broke. The tube separated from the eyelet that mounts to the control arm.
What now????
I'm screwed, since we had to destroy the rubber bushings on the Bilsteins to get the metal sleeves out.
I repeat,
WTF!!
WTF!!!!!!!!!
I drove my Cobra yesterday and noticed a sloppiness in the rear suspension along with a mysterious clunking noise.
One of Strange shocks broke. The tube separated from the eyelet that mounts to the control arm.
What now????
I'm screwed, since we had to destroy the rubber bushings on the Bilsteins to get the metal sleeves out.
I repeat,
WTF!!
RedfireVert said:WTF!!!!!!!!!
I drove my Cobra yesterday and noticed a sloppiness in the rear suspension along with a mysterious clunking noise.
One of Strange shocks broke. The tube separated from the eyelet that mounts to the control arm.
What now????
I'm screwed, since we had to destroy the rubber bushings on the Bilsteins to get the metal sleeves out.
I repeat,
WTF!!
Read post #154
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