The "how much horsepower can a Coyote handle" thread

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nickSD

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When did that happen and how many miles on it? Did anyone that looked at it offer a reason? Did MMR have an opinion? I'm guessing you might have mentioned it when getting your new stuff...
 

mastwolf

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since this is brought up i though i would ask a question i was thinking of today. is what the motor can take based on HP? or stress on the motor? it seems with a turbo youre stressing the motor less so its "safer". So you ran 10psi with a paxton would it be safe to run 10psi with a turbo? or is it based on HP. so with a turbo you might only do 8 psi to hit 600whp.

Part Power adder, part Tune.

With a turbo, your 8psi is gonna make more power than 600rwhp (the half decent turbo setups are). But, you are right, the blower cars need to make more power, cause they rob you of power.
The tune has a lot to do with it as well.
 

nickSD

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IMHO and open for debate -

For rods, I think RPM is the primary factor, since they see an near instantaneous direction change at top and bottom of the stroke. I don't think sheer boost and HP bends or breaks rods but detonation can hurt them.

I think ring butting is what causes the breakage of the upper ring land in pistons, not so much that the piston was too weak for the power level or not.

As for cylinder walls, whether it's a design change or some sort of sideloading, the jury is still out for me. I suppose it could be detonation, since the pressure "hammer" would be going in all directions, not just up or down.
 

Angry50

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Part Power adder, part Tune.

With a turbo, your 8psi is gonna make more power than 600rwhp (the half decent turbo setups are). But, you are right, the blower cars need to make more power, cause they rob you of power.
The tune has a lot to do with it as well.

so is a turbo on 10 psi just as safe as a paxton or vortech on 10psi?
 

mastwolf

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I made 760 Std on just shy of 8psi another 60hp I don't wanna do
 

nickSD

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- Angry50

A turbo should be safer for the engine at the same power level since it's not taking power straight off the crankshaft to turn it. There's some power loss due to the reduced exhaust flow with turbo plumbing, but not as much as belt-driven setups.

A rough calc of improvement due to boost is the (original HP) * (boost/15) + (original HP). An example is 400 * 10/15 = ~270 HP. Then it's 270+400 = 670hp. That is pretty attractive, lol. You can use this model for flywheel or rear wheel HP. There are some variables depending on the particular setup but this is a decent starting point.
 
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truebluedevil02

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IMHO and open for debate -

For rods, I think RPM is the primary factor, since they see an near instantaneous direction change at top and bottom of the stroke. I don't think sheer boost and HP bends or breaks rods but detonation can hurt them.

I think ring butting is what causes the breakage of the upper ring land in pistons, not so much that the piston was too weak for the power level or not.

As for cylinder walls, whether it's a design change or some sort of sideloading, the jury is still out for me. I suppose it could be detonation, since the pressure "hammer" would be going in all directions, not just up or down.
I tend to agree with this. People dont realize how much stress 500 extra RPM puts on a set of rods. That's why I will be limiting my shift points to 7000 with my new setup vs the 7450 that they were seeing before. I think E85 also helps with the tight ring gap since it burns cooler while obviously keeping detonation at bay.
 

gimmie11s

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The RPM argument is very valid. How many people with coyotes raise their rev limits to 75-76 or even 7800 rpm after installing Boss or CJ manifolds? The force on the rods generated from 800 more rpm are far greater than 5-6 psi from a power adder at stock RPM levels.

Another thing to consider that is rarely talked about is ignition timing. Its crazy to run 18 or 20* of timing with a power adder. The cylinder pressure created by too aggressive of a timing curve will kill a motor in quick order--especially if you have boost. Ive actually seen a cast iron block crack in the cylinder walls without damaging a forged piston/rod from too much cylinder pressure from an exaggerated timing curve.

My car is going Paxton/Vortech in the next week or so and when it does I plan on running 9-10 psi with a lazy timing curve. I will likely have it tuned for no more than 12-13* max advance at WOT. 9-10* at max torque. This will allow the motor to live. Hell... I might even run her up to 12 psi and there is a good chance it will survive with the conservative timing curve.

e85 is amazing fuel, but people get too greedy with it. It is such an awesome knock/detonation deterent that often times people run crazy amounts of timing. On e85 ive seen motors fly apart with absolutely no sign of knock ever. It's possible to melt a piston on e85 before it even knocks.
 
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nickSD

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Totally agree on the reduced timing. I ran a total 13 degrees up top when I had a Vortech on my Mach 1. No IC though. Ran 11.80s @ low 120s without much traction.

A buddy recently tried E85 on his Outlaw 8.5 car (Procharged 400-ish Windsor) and that thing went boom on the first test hit. The compression test results were from 0 to 30 psi in all 8 holes, lol. Torched the deck, the MLS gaskets, and a couple spots on the heads. Not pretty. For sure it was a timing or fuel mishap, but he has stayed with gasoline ever since, lol.

Sorry, a little off track there.
 

JayVee

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not of track at all...Very interesting read. Just adds to what is already "Known" and NOT presented in my case.
 

13 RaceRed 5.0

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How much horsepower can a Coyote handle?

:FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE

There has been a question among our customers as to how much additional horsepower the Coyote based Mustang can safely produce.

Just so that any future confusion might be averted, the 5.0L Coyote engine found in 2011 and up Ford Mustangs can only function properly as it has been engineered from the factory.

Thank You,
Senior Executive, Ford Motor Company


;-)
 
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