yes i know give me a minute to verify and ill edit this post I have a kenne bell 2.2 that i did a egr delete to first pic line goes to the boost gauge and a/c controls on the passenger side firewall area. Middles fitting is either cap or plugged. I bought a brass cap to put in mine to clean it up some. I can snap a pic or so if your further confused
and after looking again i want to make sure i told you right...... Your asking what the line in your hand goes to right? If so are you holding the entire line in your hand or is it plugged up somewhere and the end in the pic is what you want to know about?
yellow circled on blower can be capped forsure before i tell you the others i have a couple questions just to make sure im right as im looking at my car now 1 where is red circled in your hand lead to that you can see? 2. where does red circle not in your hand lead to that you can see?
just snapped these. I disconnected my lines, pulled them out and reconnected them so you can see them.
1. the red circled part in my hand leads to the othe part that is capped off that is also in my hand. 2. The other red circle leads into my firewall.
Easier way for eatons If you simply switch the top and bottom boost/vacuum ports on the eaton, you will have the right number of lines coming from the vacuum port, and one extra coming from the boost port. Just cap the extra line off and use the one left to run into the factory Y fitting for the boost gauge and whatever the other one is. Super easy. While you are deleting the egr, you might as well do a longtube swap while your at it. And if you're going to drop the k member to do the longtubes, just do the k member swap also
Has anyone had their boost gauge start acting up after this? I just installed a whipple and did the egr delete and my boost gauge shoots up and freezes, then moves a little more and stops?? It's like it's sticking on something, but it was working just fine a couple weeks ago with the eaton? I used all the stock lines for the delete, even the T?
Very nice wright up... Im just waiting to put my new blower on to do the EGR delete. Thanks for the info...
2) The bottom port on the Boost Bypass Accuator Valve goes to the air intake so it is filtered. (Some leave it open and vented to the atmosphere.) so the bottom port has vacuum? just asking cuz i was gonna vent mine to the atmosphere and seen that it had vacuum.
Question. Can I get away with just putting a block plate on the EGR valve? My ONLY concern is that EGR tube being so hot near all those wiring harnesses. I just did the EvenFlow cooling mod and those wires are too close to the hot EGR tube IMHO. I'm thinking just put a blocking plate in the EGR gasket and bolt everything back up. It would look stock if I ever traded it in and since no exhaust gas is moving through the tube, it would be much cooler. I'm due for a tune in the next couple of weeks if I need to shut it off in the computer. Thoughts?
I would think you could but you would also have to disconnect it at the exhaust manifold and cap it or the EGR tube will still stay hot.
It would be interesting to see how hot the upper tube gets when it is blocked off. Once I make a block I'll try taking some temps before and after the install. That way I can see how effective it is. Thanks.
So after putting in the block plate, the EGR tube near the ERG valve dropped a good 30+ degrees to about 150 or so. But.. now I can smell something burning back there. I have been under the car and nothing is touching the exhaust manifold or pipes. I think I want to cap the exhaust EGR port, but although it has been asked in this thread a couple times, I have not seen anyone give specs on the cap so we could pick one up locally. Anyone know what size/thread the EGR tube cap is? EDIT: so I found that some of the wire harness tape had fallen down and landed on my O2 sensor. It was slowly burning off as it got really hot and that was a simple fix. I picked up the block off cap from Ford and the mechanic at the shop measured it to be a 22 x 1.5 cap. I did not verify this yet by installing it.
The VMP blower doesn't have a EGR, but if you're asking about the vac lines, I would think you would follow the Eaton set-up.
