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Discussion in 'How-To' started by TORQJNKY, Jan 18, 2009.
Sweet write up, can anyone explain how to turn the egr codes off in my Predator?
Also, do you not want to reinstall the boost dump valve?
So I found a guy who can remove the EGR stuff from the Tune.. , do I not want to reinstall the boost dump valve? What exactly does it do?
Do not remove your boost bypass valve! Read this link. The EGR delete discribed above incorporates this mod also.
03-04 Mustang Cobra ZERO Dollar Boost Bypass How To
Okay so now that I see it, there is actually 4 items right there and you remove 3 of them
Boost Dump Valve (Boost bypass actuator solenoid)
EGR Vacuum regulator solenoid
Maybe its a terminology thing
In your article you call it a "Boost dump valve" and there article they call it a "Boost bypass actuator solenoid"
In your article you call it a "Boost bypass actuator" and they call it a "boost actuator"
So basically remove everything from the blower except the "Boost bypass actuator" aka the "boost actuator" and then run vacuum lines like described in this picture?
Then put the "Boost bypass actuator" aka the "boost actuator" behind the eaton to hide it?
Forgive the questions, I mean no disrespect just having trouble understanding exactly how it works and want to make sure I do everything correctly.
Thanks for the how to and the help!
Also when I go see a tuner what do I tell him? Basically I just removed the EGR system? Will the boost dump valve not throw a code?
My bust. Yes, the boost dump valve goes away. The Boost Bypass accuator stays exactly where it's mounted on the side of the Eaton. The boost dump valve is one of the modules on the black bracket on the drivers side of the Eaton. All that stuff goes away. The black item circled in red is the boost bypass accuator. Sorry for the confusion. It's been a while since I looked at it.
Tell your tuner to turn your EGR off in your tune. Simple as that.
Not sure why the pic is not coming up. It's image 2 in step 3 of the link I sent you a couple posts up.
Thanks for the help, I was confused thinking there was only 3 items over there but actually there is 4
Thanks for the help, much appreciated.
How soon after disconnect do I need to get it tuned, for example if I remove it today and get it tuned next month will it be an issue other than a CEL?
One more thing, anyone happen to know the thread pitch of the threaded cap? I can make my own block off plate and probably buy the cap fairly cheap
So I got most of the disassembly done, but unable to get the pipe out.. I dont really want to cut it but it seems like thats where I am headed
EDIT: Key is like 04sleeper said and to push from underneath with a wrench while someone above twists and wiggles it.
Now I just need to get some vacuum lines, what is the correct size?
So I finished mine, here are some pics
Here is the vacuum setup I made, I used all the stock lines and just covered them with nice covering and shrinkwrap
Sweet! Nice job with the stock vacuum lines.
Anyone still have their stock EGR parts? I need to purchase a complete EGR system asap for emissions testing in NY. I need brackets etc. Pretty much everything except for the vacuum hoses.
I have the bracket with the sensors on it, wasnt gonna sell it but make me an offer
I just got done taking mine off, so if you need it, shoot me a PM, I have the tube, EGR, bracket, and sensors.
I Bought the car with the EGR delete already installed. Everything matches up ok, but I do get a code, P1000 OBD Systems Readiness Test not complete. Now correct me if im wrong, but on the key on the system runs through a self test, and all it is looking for is the resistance of the EGR valve, so could I add a resistor to the plug just to fool the computer? because through the Diablo the emissions stuff is disabled.
interesting. Anyone know?
Well if no one knows this, how the hell do i get rid of the damn code, i'm tired of having to plug the diablo in and clear the code every time i start the car. I went though the right up and everything seems to be done right.