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Discussion in 'How-To' started by TORQJNKY, Jan 18, 2009.
That nipple. I blocked it off and removed the EVAP canister completely.
anyone have the write up for an 2001 cobra
To the OP
Craig, have you done this to your 5.8?
I may have to if I have issues getting a return fuel system where the passenger side aftermarket fuel rail and AN fitting don't contact the EGR valve.
I deleted my EGR system and used the kit from LFP to block off the exhaust manifold EGR bung and the supercharger port. I have a serious exhaust leak coming from the LFP cap that I used on the manifold. At first I thought maybe I had somehow cross-threaded it since after a few turns it would get super tight but there were still plenty of threads exposed on the manifold. Cap wasn't cross-threaded since it came off easily. I put lots of anti seize on both cap and bung and tried again but still leaks and the anti seize started running off. Did some searching and most people get a 5/8 brass pipe cap from the hardware store or buy the kit from Lethal. Has anyone had any problems with exhaust leaks using Lethal's kit? I think the LFP cap may not be the right thread pitch since I've read the manifold bung is actually metric pitch and not SAE.
No issues with the kit I got from Lethal.
Yeah I think the cap in the kit I got from Lightning Force Performance is the issue. The factory EGR bung is M22 x 1.5 and I bet my cap is the wrong thread pitch. I'll probably just get Lethal's kit and try their cap.
Just find a cap on mcmaster.com, that's all lethal is doing and marking the price way up.
SpoolX, where did you find that nice plastic wrap for your factory vacuum lines?
I fixed my exhaust leak, I was able to get a better grip on the cap by sliding my wrench in through that narrow cut out below the bottom of the fender and tightened the hell out of that cap from LFP. Plus I think most of the smoke was the PB Blaster and antiseize burning off.
For some reason now my factory boost gauge doesn't want to work. Everything appears to be hooked up right, so I'm going to pull the gauge cluster out I make sure it didn't pop off the gauges some how.
Edit: Boost gauge works normally now, I guess one of the vacuum fittings was loose or something.
Anyone have a diagram of how everything is originally routed? My car doesn't have an EGR so I have to put one on to pass emissions
Hope this helps!
http://vmptuning.com/terminator/03-04 cobra Vacuum Harness Schematic R2 Mark Olson.pdf
What type of hoses and fittings do i use for all the vac/boost lines? I'm swapping a 01 cobra motor that I'm doing an eaton swap on into my 00Gt as per my sig, The guy i bought it off did the EGR delete so it doesn't have any of the stuff but i still need a block plate and cap, then do all the hoses.
any help here would be MUCH appreciated
by chance is there anyone that has the "shielding" (the small size) for the individual vacuum hoses? i did the delete but still want to cover 2 hoses (frps and bypass) so it's not showing red and keep an oem look. let me know, ready to buy. can't find any that small local. i need at least 2.5'-3' for good measure. thanks.
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hi I just installed a aftermarket boost gauge on my 2004 mustang gt with a tork tech kit eaton m112 blower at idle it reads -20 when at wot in neutral gauge moves up but never pass 0 to say how much boost im making when at idle should it read -20 or my vac lines are set up wrong
longtube header stock cobra blower and cai 90mm mafs and egr system deleted
Any idea on what would cause the EGR system to stay "Not ready" but not throw any CEL/DTC on a stock tune? This is with over 300 miles of driving. Send a message if you can, I might forget to check back here.