cdh027-2 said:
If you've ever seen the bottom of a frying pan, imagine what will happen to the slick 50 once it begins to gel.
Terminator piston damage (pic)
- Thread starter Grey03Cobra
- Start date
If you've ever seen the bottom of a frying pan, imagine what will happen to the slick 50 once it begins to gel.
well on my new motor...i wont be toping it out...i already know it will do 175.... learned my lesson... car hopefully will be done this week....
Do are the twin screw guys have to worry about this issue? If the twin screws run cooler, you would think not. Makes me want to lean more towards a twin screw rather than a ported Eaton.
Naw fu ck that...Ya'll need some ZMAX..It soaks into metal!PlatinumCobra said:
As far as twin screws go...I suppose they would be less prone to doing engine damage..if you detuned them to run at pulleyd eaton levels (450-500)..But if you use them for their intended purpose...they may stave off damage for a little longer(assuming you have a good tune & supporting mods)..But it will still happen..As evidence by what happend to my brothers car...It has one of the new Whipples & all the bells & whistles..
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Someone summerise this thread please! FYI I have an 04 with 1180 on the clock right now.......I don't want to replace the pistons right now and I am planning on full exhaust and higher boost levels. I will used my engine as a testbed if someone will give me a list of things to do to keep this from happening to my pistons.......i'm going to make big HP even if it kills the pistons so I really don't care if I have to replace them if your idea's don't work. Thanks
Ken
PS- Would an aftermarket heat exhanger help with some of these cooling issues on the number 7 and 8 cylinders?
Ken
PS- Would an aftermarket heat exhanger help with some of these cooling issues on the number 7 and 8 cylinders?
BAD 97 WS-6 said:
I'm actually leaning towards a whipple using the factory tune and ECU at 8 PSI only. If I can get a reliable 450-475 RWHP with lower intake temps using the whipple, that would be just fine with me. :thumbsup:
cobraCMDR said:
In summary, extended WOT runs on modified Cobras is a problem that make car go boom boom. Well, with the Eaton that is. I would expect the Whipple or KB blower to actually help with this entire problem, assuming you don't go ballistic with boost.
A larger heat exchanger won't hurt, and I'm guessing the open air CAI is not helping if it's sucking in warm engine air either. The cooler the air, the better.
You guys are aware that the pistons that Platinum Cobra posted earlier in this thread are from a two-stroke engine, correct (dirt bike, weed whacker, ring a bell?)?? Fuel mixed with oil leads to results that are unobtainable in a four stroke application, auto ignition past the rings and all kinds of crazy things happen that are impossible when there is no fuel mixed with oil in the crankcase.
It is a heat problem and detonation is not the cause of the scuffing.
Good luck to you guys, I'm unsubscribing from this mess.
It is a heat problem and detonation is not the cause of the scuffing.
Good luck to you guys, I'm unsubscribing from this mess.
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9A Pilot said:
I thought the TSB for the head tick (pre-blue stripe head) specified that inadaquate cooling around the valve guide caused the wear which lead to the tick. No ? My point being, since a cooling problem was recognized and re-engineered for the head, why is unreasonable to question other areas of the engine ?
Does anyone have a sound bite of a BAD tick?
cdh027-2 said:
Stay away from all these oil additives. Duralube, like other additives, contains chlorine which eats through your bearings under high heat. Others contain zinc.
And as far as Slick 50 is concerned, Dupont, the makers of teflon, have publically stated that teflon is not a useful additive in motor oil. After numerous lawsuits, Dupont was forced to sell teflon to oil makers. Most of the teflon will wind up along the oil pan as well as any low pressure tubes and journals. The rest will end up in the filter. :nonono:
i have one i could probably e mailcobraCMDR said:
thanks guys, sounds similar to mine, but mine is comming from the passenger side! Seems like most of you have it on the drivers side.....I wonder if I'm just being paranoid! any other sound bites are welcome! BTW I'm putting mobil one 5w-30 in this weekend with a K&N oil filter, we will see if it is still around.
cobraCMDR said:
If it helps, after reading these forums when I first bought the car and convincing myself I had the "tick", I ended up loosening the cats and shifting them a bit before tightening. Tick went bye-bye.
So the stock Midpipe might be leaking after the manifolds? Hmm well I'll let you guys know, i'm going to be doing full exhaust in the next few months regardless.
this entire thread is like 10 pounds of sh-t, in a 5 pound bag
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