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The Terminator
Engine/Tuning
Terminator Engine Build Difficulty Level?
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<blockquote data-quote="Quick Strike" data-source="post: 16648042" data-attributes="member: 11920"><p>I built mine in 2009 and it is still running nicely. Short block costs were: $1080 check, machining, cleaning and balance; $450 ARP mainstuds, headstuds, side bolts, $200 standard main and rod King bearings; $1000 CP 9cc forged .020" over pistons and Total Seal AP chrome rings for a total of $2730. I added a Melling oil pump, Stewart water pump, and IW dampner for good measure. I could have used the originals here, and did not add these improvements in as short block costs. </p><p></p><p>Be careful selecting your machinist. Mine does a lot of roundy round and drag race engines and is familiar with high performance clearances and engines. It took them a while to get to mine after race season, but I felt it was worth waiting. They need to complete some of the machining and measuring before you can order pistons. Be sure they are good at communication with you or you may be waiting needlessly at one phase or another of the process. </p><p></p><p>You want to be clear on the clearances you want with your shop and check them when it returns. My main and rod clearances were were just where they needed to be with a polish: not everyone is that lucky. You want to be sure the bores and pistons have the correct clearances and finish. I asked the shop to match the pistons to the bores.</p><p></p><p>You will want to know how much is needed to square or clean up the deck. This may impact the piston choice and how far down the hole the pistons are. Sizing the big end of the rods and line-boreing/line-honeing will also change the compression distance relative to the deck. Using main studs will require at least a line hone on the mains, but will add strength to the shortblock. </p><p></p><p>Your ring clearances will depend on usage. I used a hand crank operated grinder for the rings. The rings will come with suggested clearances for type of use and most have a tech line that will help you sort out the best clearance for your application. The chrome top rings take a lot of grinding for a small change in clearance while the second iron rings grind quickly. Just remember that and to take your time when grinding. you can't add material back once removed. Also finish the ends as instructed by the ring manufacture.</p><p></p><p>The other advice that come to mind is to have your clutch plate 0 balanced to the rotating assembly after your assembly has been balanced. My Spec 3+ took a small piece of iron welded to the plate to balance. I am sure this would have had a vibration if not balanced even though it was supposed to be balanced from Spec.</p><p></p><p>I have been building performance and race engines for myself over a long period for time. It helps to have a basic understanding of what is needed from the machine shop and how to check their work as you assemble. This was my first Ford and ford engine, but it was not that different from assembling any other shortblock. The most daunting thing about this rebuild was degreeing the four cams. Even that was not that hard after understanding the procedure. That was time consuming but not that difficult.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Quick Strike, post: 16648042, member: 11920"] I built mine in 2009 and it is still running nicely. Short block costs were: $1080 check, machining, cleaning and balance; $450 ARP mainstuds, headstuds, side bolts, $200 standard main and rod King bearings; $1000 CP 9cc forged .020" over pistons and Total Seal AP chrome rings for a total of $2730. I added a Melling oil pump, Stewart water pump, and IW dampner for good measure. I could have used the originals here, and did not add these improvements in as short block costs. Be careful selecting your machinist. Mine does a lot of roundy round and drag race engines and is familiar with high performance clearances and engines. It took them a while to get to mine after race season, but I felt it was worth waiting. They need to complete some of the machining and measuring before you can order pistons. Be sure they are good at communication with you or you may be waiting needlessly at one phase or another of the process. You want to be clear on the clearances you want with your shop and check them when it returns. My main and rod clearances were were just where they needed to be with a polish: not everyone is that lucky. You want to be sure the bores and pistons have the correct clearances and finish. I asked the shop to match the pistons to the bores. You will want to know how much is needed to square or clean up the deck. This may impact the piston choice and how far down the hole the pistons are. Sizing the big end of the rods and line-boreing/line-honeing will also change the compression distance relative to the deck. Using main studs will require at least a line hone on the mains, but will add strength to the shortblock. Your ring clearances will depend on usage. I used a hand crank operated grinder for the rings. The rings will come with suggested clearances for type of use and most have a tech line that will help you sort out the best clearance for your application. The chrome top rings take a lot of grinding for a small change in clearance while the second iron rings grind quickly. Just remember that and to take your time when grinding. you can't add material back once removed. Also finish the ends as instructed by the ring manufacture. The other advice that come to mind is to have your clutch plate 0 balanced to the rotating assembly after your assembly has been balanced. My Spec 3+ took a small piece of iron welded to the plate to balance. I am sure this would have had a vibration if not balanced even though it was supposed to be balanced from Spec. I have been building performance and race engines for myself over a long period for time. It helps to have a basic understanding of what is needed from the machine shop and how to check their work as you assemble. This was my first Ford and ford engine, but it was not that different from assembling any other shortblock. The most daunting thing about this rebuild was degreeing the four cams. Even that was not that hard after understanding the procedure. That was time consuming but not that difficult. [/QUOTE]
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