Suspension upgrades and suggestions

01yellercobra

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That does prove everyone's butt is different. I think my car rides better with the coilovers than it did with the H&R race springs. And it handles better to boot.

Although I'm sure the roads play a part in that. And I think a lot of people that go with coilovers slam the car. Mine is only a touch lower than it was with the H&R's.
 

Blkkbgt

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Although I'm sure the roads play a part in that. And I think a lot of people that go with coilovers slam the car. Mine is only a touch lower than it was with the H&R's.

This has always been one of my suspicious with people complaining about coilovers riding terribly.

Some may run them with a decent ride height but I believe most slam the car and basically run around with little to no bump travel.

Based on some posts by another member here I am also starting to question the MM philosophy of matching wheel rates. I think it may also play into complaints of a rough ride particularly in the rear.

I could be wrong but it's the direction I am leaning.
 

01yellercobra

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This has always been one of my suspicious with people complaining about coilovers riding terribly.

Some may run them with a decent ride height but I believe most slam the car and basically run around with little to no bump travel.

Based on some posts by another member here I am also starting to question the MM philosophy of matching wheel rates. I think it may also play into complaints of a rough ride particularly in the rear.

I could be wrong but it's the direction I am leaning.
My son is probably a perfect example of the ride height. He recently put coilovers on his GTI and was saying they weren't the greatest ride. He finally leveled them out and had to raise one of the corners 3/4". Suddenly the car rides fine.

MM was the one that told me to get the 475lbs rear springs to match the 300lb fronts.
 

HPLouis

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IMO, unless you're dropping the car 2"+ you don't need a bump steer kit. The only reason I have one now is because the MM K member requires one. But when I was on the stock K with H&R springs the car drove fine and with the caster/camber plates it was aligned with no issue. If the car feels darty after you lower it you might need the bump steer kit, but I doubt it will.

To me the car rode better once I did the FTBR bushings. I did those after doing the Stifflers sub frame connectors and jacking rails.

As mentioned, I would do at least the poly steering rack bushings. Though I've also run aluminum bushings with no extra vibrations or noises.

Best brands/manufacturers are going to depend on what the person likes and is running. Maximum Motorsports is good stuff. I'm running their K member and caster/camber plates. But I like the Stifflers set up better with the jacking rails. And after you lower the car you'll love the jacking rails. I like my MM coilovers, but I'm thinking of switching to Viking so I can have the adjustable shocks/struts.
Did you do the jacking rails with the Stiffler's subframe connectors? I already have the MM subframes and was looking into adding the web and stiffening rails to the MM subs but I'm wondering if it'll make a noticeable difference or are the subframes good enough for a street car.
 

01yellercobra

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Did you do the jacking rails with the Stiffler's subframe connectors? I already have the MM subframes and was looking into adding the web and stiffening rails to the MM subs but I'm wondering if it'll make a noticeable difference or are the subframes good enough for a street car.
Yes and yes. I did the SFC's first and we ran out of gas. We did the spider braces and jacking rails later on and I felt a difference then. But the best part is not having to go way under the car to lift it. I use the jacking rails on the lift too.
 

shurur

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This has always been one of my suspicious with people complaining about coilovers riding terribly.

Some may run them with a decent ride height but I believe most slam the car and basically run around with little to no bump travel.

Based on some posts by another member here I am also starting to question the MM philosophy of matching wheel rates. I think it may also play into complaints of a rough ride particularly in the rear.

I could be wrong but it's the direction I am leaning.
FYI: I added the thread link to Bruce's quotes to my earlier post.

This is it again:
This is what started me thinking...along with my calculating the effective rates and F/R ratio of the HR Race springs.

But then IMO MM's rear CO factor of .5 for IRS CO is off. The angle and mount point don't seem to support that number.

It is just trigonometry.

 
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Blkkbgt

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FYI: I added the thread link to Bruce's quotes to my earlier post.

This is it again:
This is what started me thinking...along with my calculating the effective rates and F/R ratio of the HR Race springs.

But then IMO MM's rear CO factor of .5 for IRS CO is off. The angle and mount point don't seem to support that number.

It is just trigonometry.

Should one of us start a new thread?

Seriously if we are going to start nerding out with trigonometry this thread is going to get severely derailed.

I am obviously extremely interested in your findings.
 

1Kona_Venom

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That does prove everyone's butt is different. I think my car rides better with the coilovers than it did with the H&R race springs. And it handles better to boot.

Although I'm sure the roads play a part in that. And I think a lot of people that go with coilovers slam the car. Mine is only a touch lower than it was with the H&R's.
Yes sir, I would agree, cars are not a one size fits all hobby. The CO setup was adjusted so that it didnt slam the car.

I guess, as with all things, you have to sacrifice a little ride quality to gain other benefits. No doubt, both our Cobras handled and grabbed pavement with those modifications.

Pic for reference


20140518_191926.jpeg
20160904_124129.jpeg


Sent from my SM-G975U using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 

HPLouis

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