Suspension - thoughts / advice

[moncho]

Wanted some input on the following, but first a little background…

The car isn’t a daily driver, it’s used mostly for joyriding & spirited driving. Would like to have the option or ability of tracking the car and going down the ¼ mile.

Also, looking to install a Roush UCA to hopefully rid me of wheel hop. I’m currently using a ’13 GT500 carbon fiber drive shaft that uses CV joints so pinion angle shouldn’t be an issue with a non-adjustable UCA. I have a set of Bob’s nonadjustable LCA as well. Will I need relocation brackets or possibly a panhard bar with the lowered rear end (~1.25” drop) or is it a wait and see if it’s needed?

The car will be lowered front & back using the M-5300-L FRPP springs.

With this drop (~1.25”) should I be concerned about “bump steer”? If so, what’s recommended?

So I’m thinking of going with the M-18000-G SVT PP suspension package. Price point isn’t bad @ about $478. Will the new struts be an improvement over OEM?

Product Description

2007-2012 MUSTANG SHELBY GT500 HANDLING KIT Fits 2007-2012 Shelby GT500 Coupe OEM 2012 GT500 performance shocks/struts and Ford Racing lowering springs provide increased control for optimum handling while maintaining a reasonable ride for street use Shocks/Struts are original equipment on 2011-2012 Shelby GT500 Performance Package option Includes M-5300-L Ford Racing Lowering Springs and Jounce Bumpers M-5570-A.

Also, wondering if I need to swap out the OEM strut mounts to these (M-18183-C)?

Long term goal will be a TVS install with all supporting mods.

Any help/advice would be appreciated.

Cheers,

Ray

 

[jdt1970]

Hi Ray,
You will more than likely need lca relocation brackets once you lower the car. You will also need an adjustable panhard bar or upgrade to watts link (if you have a non-adjustable panhard the lowering will shift the axle). Before you decide on the UCA I would look at a torque arm. CorteX Racing and Griggs are the big players in torque arms but there are others out there. I have been f----ng with my UCA for about a year and I am still not happy. The CorteX torque arm is bolt on and the Griggs required a minor amount of welding. They both replace the UCA all together and solve the axle rotation problem much more efficiently since they move that energy to the middle of the car. It will cost you about a grand but it seems to me to be a much more elegant solution if you plan on upping the horsepower.

I just did the VMP 820hp kit and now I am reassessing my previous suspension choices that were very similar to what you are planning.

Either way you will probably end up relocating those LCA. I would recommend poking around on the Griggs and CorteX websites before you make any decisions. They both have engineered entire suspension systems for the mustang platforms over the years and test them on the track regularly. Once you see you their entire suspension system works and why then you can make better decisions even if you get the parts else where. I have wasted some money and others have wasted more just trying to find a part here and there that fit the bill for my current goal without understanding where the car needed to be long term. It sounds like you are already doing that. I hope you find something helpful in all of that. Best of luck to you.

 

[jdt1970]

Hey just wanted say I made the above recommendation based on a s197 platform with panhard bar. Not sure what you currently have.

 

[moncho]

Hey jdt1970,

I was thinking the same on the relo brackets as geometry may change in
the rear when lowered and traction may suffer w/o them. Didn’t know a Watts link would replace the UCA as you mentioned and center rear wheels. Sounds like your between dealing with your UCA and possibly going to a torque arm? Took your suggestion on looking @ torque arms and they are impressive. Does the torque arm deal with wheel hop? Seems like the right thing to do out of the gate (avoid possible issues with the UCA and doing it right the 1st time). What's the issue with your UCA? Trouble handling the power/torque?

Appreciate the response!

Sorry for the late response, been out of pocket for a while.

Cheers,
Ray

 

[moncho]

Hey just wanted say I made the above recommendation based on a s197 platform with panhard bar. Not sure what you currently have.

Yes have the s197 with panhard bar.

Cheers,
Ray

 

[GNBRETT]

the Watts link is FAR superior to the pan hard bar. I seen a huge difference in launching and turning with it. and I had a pan hard bar on it b4 so I'm speaking from experience.

u will need the relocation brackets.

get the Viking DA coil-overs. their great for the track and the street. far better option then wat u listed imo.

 

[jdt1970]

Hey jdt1970,

I was thinking the same on the relo brackets as geometry may change in
the rear when lowered and traction may suffer w/o them. Didn’t know a Watts link would replace the UCA as you mentioned and center rear wheels. Sounds like your between dealing with your UCA and possibly going to a torque arm? Took your suggestion on looking @ torque arms and they are impressive. Does the torque arm deal with wheel hop? Seems like the right thing to do out of the gate (avoid possible issues with the UCA and doing it right the 1st time). What's the issue with your UCA? Trouble handling the power/torque?

Appreciate the response!

Sorry for the late response, been out of pocket for a while.

Cheers,
Ray

A watts link will not replace the UCA but a TA will.

From my understanding wheel hop has to do with soft bushings more than geometry but since a TA replaces two rubber bushings by replacing the UCA then it would help wheel hop indirectly.

The main function of a TA is to control axle torque (just like a UCA). It does it better than the UCA because it fixes the instant center in one location rather than letting it migrate as it does with the UCA. The TA has a positive effect on anti dive (should have better control during heavy breaking) and allows you to run more anti-squat (better traction on hard launch).

The TA is more for a street/track car. It isn't as appropriate for a drag car that only needs to go straight. It is also nice on the street because you have less dive and squat without having to use stiff springs.

The watts link simply locates the axle left and right under the car. It does it slightly better than a panhard bar because it is more symmetrical. The panhard affects the car differently in a left turn than it does in a right turn. A watts makes the car more predictable when cornering hard.

My UCA seems to be doing fine with the increased power and torque. It is just a pain in the ass to adjust without a lift. Everytime I make a suspension change (alignment, relocation bracket, lca adjustment, etc) I have to adjust the pinion angle back to where I want it. The jam nuts on the UCA can only be accessed when the suspension is unloaded. The adjustment must be made with the suspension loaded. So this means I have to raise the car onto jack stands and loosen the jam nuts. Then lower it onto blocks so I can get under there to make the adjustment. Then raise it back up to tighten the jam nuts. Then back on blocks to recheck. Then back off blocks so I can remove blocks and lower car. Then drive it around. Then raise it back up on blocks to check and maybe readjust. If you have a lift this is much easier but if you are using scissor jacks and stacks of 2x10s it can easily take a whole day to adjust the UCA.

So long story short do lots of research before you decide. Try to be honest about what you are going to be using the car for. If you just want to go fast between stop lights you can do that easily with some good control arms. If you want to handle corners better then maybe a TA/Watts link would be right for you.

Be careful with lowering and think it through. Don't forget if you lower the car not only will you need lca relocation brackets and a adjustable panhard or watts but you will also need to adjust the front suspension (I will let someone else advise you on front suspension).

Take Care,