Suspension setup shocks/strut/springs question.

slow06

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What strut/shock combo and springs would eliminate the gap running with 19's.

I am looking to upgrade the suspension system in my 2013 brembo mustang. I got the car last year, it's running a staggered setup of 19x9 and 19x10, has some sort of after market springs, I am thinking roush springs at this point, I am going to lift the car and check tomorrow. The gap between the tire and fender in the back is about about 3 fingers and maybe a little more than a finger in the front.

Another question is, what else exactly do i need? I know a panhard bar would be needed, what about strut mounts? camber bolts, and maybe control arm relocating brackets?

I dd this car, it sees no track time. Just really looking for a more aggressive stance, but I want to do it right. I am looking to spend around 1k or a little more. I have tried to find threads of 2011-2014 that are lowered with 19's to see what combos have been run, but have had no luck.

Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance. If this is in the wrong forum, sorry.
 
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slow06

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Going for a better stance, the car sits a little high for me. I really don't think it would see any track time.

10464145_1096810533667562_101991774448454658_n_zpscfeqdgti.jpg
 

usafimj

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I'm going to go with LMR SVE or BMR lowering springs, 05-09 Koni Orange shocks/struts w/ GT500 strut mounts. Also, BMR LCA's w/ brackets, UCA w/ bracket, panhard bar, camber bolts. Going to do a full swap.
 

slow06

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Mike that car looks awesome, that is the exact height I am looking for, I am running a 285/35/19 in the back. I think the gap would be eliminated. How is the ride? Thanks for all the replies, I am going to see what the set up would cost.
 

choate

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K springs would work but my vote is BMR springs. Either one is good but I can personally tell you the BMR springs are of high quality build and also look and ride great. K springs are a Ford racing brand obviously so good no doubt. If you can't see my signature I'm on Koni orange, j&m rear LCA and j&m pan hard with CHE relocation brackets. Those last three things made a big difference in traction but also stiffened it up too. I drive it daily and love it although it's not a Cadillac stock ride anymore but I didn't like the stock ride but FYI. On 2010 shocks with gt500 mounts and eibach camber bolts. No problems besides the orange paint falling off the shocks. Been driving on this setup for probably 35k miles
 
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slow06

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I was looking at some of the set ups, kinda pricing them out, I did find this at BMR. How would the Strange struts/shocks compare to others, I really would like to go with Koni yellows, but they would be a little out of my price range. I am also looking into getting a set of BMR LCA to go along with the kit I have linked down below,I don't know if the stock LCA would work, another question is, am I going to need a UCA and mount? So many different pieces I never thought about. I hope I can stay in my budget and still not run into issues. I got to find out what is 100% needed.

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1511&superpro=0

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1513&superpro=0

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=182&superpro=0

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=156&superpro=0
 

BMR Tech 2

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I would do a set of Koni Str.T instead of the Stranges. The Strange are geared more towards drag racing than street driving, but they can be used for either. Str.t will be going on sale in a couple months, and you can save a big chunk of cash on them over the Stranges. The LSP kit is great, but the strut mounts included in it will not work with 11-14 style struts. You'd have to switch over to the 05-10 style struts, or substitute 11-14 mounts in that kit.

Let me know if you'd like me to a put a quote together for you, or if you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask!
 

slow06

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Thanks Dylan, I am leaning towards the LSP kit and going with the koni str.t shocks and struts. . Another question is, would I need to buy different LCA's? Would the stock ones work? If you could put a quote together that would be great. I am looking do make this purchase in the next week. Just trying to figure out exactly what will be needed. Thanks.
 

Paul.

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You can use OEM LCAs, but I suggest upgrading. Most wheel hop is because of how crummy the factory arms are.

Many have told me that, but that wasn't my experience at all. With my stock Brembo package suspension, my wheelhop was so severe I thought I was going to break an axle. After swapping my factory shocks/struts/springs for Koni Str.t and Steeda Sports, it was completely gone. My only other suspension mods are a BMR adjustable panhard, and some GT500 mounts. Control arms are OEM. Even with launches at the track on drag radials, still no wheelhop.

Paul.
 

slow06

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I lifted the car the other day, it currently has roush springs, the previous owner only had it dropped by a 1/2 inch. Looks like stock struts and shocks. With 19's and running a 285/35 tire, I wonder how much of a gap would be left with a 1.5 inch drop, I really don't want to go to a 2 inch drop. Charlotte streets are really bad.

Might go with struts/shocks/springs/panhard and strut mounts. Dylan was going to get me a quote.
While I had my car raised I also found out my car has a boss style H-pipe with side exhaust.

Did you have any issues with pinion angle, with your current setup? I have tried to find the answers to exactly what is needed, but I keep getting mixed reviews. Some say I need to also add an adjustable UCA and mount, along with LCA and relocation brackets.

From the ground to the fender the car is sitting at 29 inches. From the ground to the top of my tires is is about 26 1/2 inches.
 

BMR Tech 2

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Many have told me that, but that wasn't my experience at all. With my stock Brembo package suspension, my wheelhop was so severe I thought I was going to break an axle. After swapping my factory shocks/struts/springs for Koni Str.t and Steeda Sports, it was completely gone. My only other suspension mods are a BMR adjustable panhard, and some GT500 mounts. Control arms are OEM. Even with launches at the track on drag radials, still no wheelhop.

Paul.

There are lots of factors that come into play with wheelhop. If you have a good tire like your drag radial, it will help get rid of/hide wheel hop. Wheel hop happens when your tires are losing traction then gaining traction. That constant traction/loss of traction creates oscillation in the suspension. The fact that you are lowered without relocation brackets could also be hiding it as well. With a lowered car and no relocation brackets, your instant center and anti-squat aren't going to hit your tires very hard at all. Just because the wheel hop isn't present, doesn't mean that there's not a benefit to getting rid of factory LCAs or using relocation brackets. :thumbsup:

I lifted the car the other day, it currently has roush springs, the previous owner only had it dropped by a 1/2 inch. Looks like stock struts and shocks. With 19's and running a 285/35 tire, I wonder how much of a gap would be left with a 1.5 inch drop, I really don't want to go to a 2 inch drop. Charlotte streets are really bad.


Might go with struts/shocks/springs/panhard and strut mounts. Dylan was going to get me a quote.
While I had my car raised I also found out my car has a boss style H-pipe with side exhaust.


Did you have any issues with pinion angle, with your current setup? I have tried to find the answers to exactly what is needed, but I keep getting mixed reviews. Some say I need to also add an adjustable UCA and mount, along with LCA and relocation brackets.


From the ground to the fender the car is sitting at 29 inches. From the ground to the top of my tires is is about 26 1/2 inches.


You wouldn't be dropped 1.5" from your current set up. Our springs are a 1.5" drop from stock, so if you swapped your Roush springs out you would be 1" lower than you currently are. You don't need an adjustable upper/mount unless you have a 1 piece driveshaft or you experience driveline vibration after the spring installation. Relocation brackets are also not required, but they're a good idea if you're concerned with wheel spin/traction. Correcting your LCA geometry after lowering is pretty important.
 

Paul.

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There are lots of factors that come into play with wheelhop. If you have a good tire like your drag radial, it will help get rid of/hide wheel hop. Wheel hop happens when your tires are losing traction then gaining traction. That constant traction/loss of traction creates oscillation in the suspension. The fact that you are lowered without relocation brackets could also be hiding it as well. With a lowered car and no relocation brackets, your instant center and anti-squat aren't going to hit your tires very hard at all. Just because the wheel hop isn't present, doesn't mean that there's not a benefit to getting rid of factory LCAs or using relocation brackets. :thumbsup:

Thanks for the response, that is very helpful. I first had some Hankook street tires out back before switching to my 315/35r20 NT05Rs. The Hankooks would spin smoothly under WOT, whereas the NT05Rs obviously hook much earlier. Thankfully the wheelhop was gone in both cases vs the 19" stock Brembo wheels and tires. It was violent.

Question - is the necessity of relocation brackets exacerbated by how much the car is lowered? For example, would a car like mine that is lowered relatively mildly have less need for relo brackets than one that is slammed? My car is a daily driver, so NVH and ride comfort rank much higher on the list than ultimate dragstrip performance - although I do hit both the dragstrip and local 1/2 mile racing events about 6 times a year.

Thanks for the tech. :)

Paul.
 

BMR Tech 2

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Thanks for the response, that is very helpful. I first had some Hankook street tires out back before switching to my 315/35r20 NT05Rs. The Hankooks would spin smoothly under WOT, whereas the NT05Rs obviously hook much earlier. Thankfully the wheelhop was gone in both cases vs the 19" stock Brembo wheels and tires. It was violent.

Question - is the necessity of relocation brackets exacerbated by how much the car is lowered? For example, would a car like mine that is lowered relatively mildly have less need for relo brackets than one that is slammed? My car is a daily driver, so NVH and ride comfort rank much higher on the list than ultimate dragstrip performance - although I do hit both the dragstrip and local 1/2 mile racing events about 6 times a year.

Thanks for the tech. :)

Paul.

Ideally you would want relocation brackets on any car that has been lowered. This image is a little dramatized, but you get the idea. When you lower a car the front mounting point of the LCA drops, while the rear position doesn't. This means the arm will angle upwards towards the axle, so when you accelerate the axle will lift up. In order to get the axle to plant, you want the rear mounting point lower than the front mounting point.

AntiSquat1.jpg
 

choate

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I lifted the car the other day, it currently has roush springs, the previous owner only had it dropped by a 1/2 inch. Looks like stock struts and shocks. With 19's and running a 285/35 tire, I wonder how much of a gap would be left with a 1.5 inch drop, I really don't want to go to a 2 inch drop. Charlotte streets are really bad.

Might go with struts/shocks/springs/panhard and strut mounts. Dylan was going to get me a quote.
While I had my car raised I also found out my car has a boss style H-pipe with side exhaust.

Did you have any issues with pinion angle, with your current setup? I have tried to find the answers to exactly what is needed, but I keep getting mixed reviews. Some say I need to also add an adjustable UCA and mount, along with LCA and relocation brackets.

From the ground to the fender the car is sitting at 29 inches. From the ground to the top of my tires is is about 26 1/2 inches.

Dude now you see why I went with BMR? They know their stuff. I can attest personally to every single thing he's saying. It's not just sales talk. My car sits exactly at 28 inches in the rear with a 245/40r20. Also if you are lowered then it would be a good idea to do do re location brackets and my thoughts were if I'm taking the rear LCA off to install the brackets why not just install new rear LCA at the same time so that's what I did. It will stiffen up the ride but nothing crazy but let me tell you if makes a big difference in the way you can stick to the ground. I didn't have any wheel hop before either but I did have plenty of wheel spin. I'd def go with Dylan's suggestions.

Oh and you don't need UCA and mount for what you are doing.
 
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