Suspension decisions - two paths to take

[DSCobra01]

I'm starting to get my car ready for my fourth trip back to Willow Springs this Fall. Up until now, my car has been stock but I'd like to finally upgrade a few items that have pointed themselves out as weaknesses after the last few trips to the track. My car is a mostly stock 2001 Cobra with 32k, which sees track time 2-3 times a year and otherwise is a weekend cruiser and I sometimes drive it to work during the week.

1. I've already purchased MM caster camber plates and H&R Race springs from a member here on the forums. My first option is to just continue down that path and get dampers that match the H&R Race springs and then call it a day. The only option I would have left to decide is if I want adjustable shocks and struts so that I can run it firmer or softer depending if I'm on the track or on the street.
3. The other path to take would be to consider a coil-over kit that comes with everything I need and then sell the H&R Race springs. Obviously this is going to be the more expensive option, but I'm willing to consider spending the money if it's the better way to go for my situation. I'm of the school of thought that it's better to do something once and do it right the first time. The only question I have is with the kits that are out there, would I be able to keep the stock k member because I don't think I'm willing to tear into the car that much at this moment.

I have to say though that I'm not looking to go all out with this car in the future and make it a corner carving track monster. I would buy a dedicated track car in the future if my involvement in this hobby ever got to that level.

My other plans for the car before this Fall are a dedicated set of track wheels and tires, brake pad upgrade, brake fluid upgrade, SS brake lines, Aluminum steering rack bushings and racing seats with 5 pt harness. I'm also on the fence regarding the Full Tilt Boogie Complete IRS Bushing Kit. I don't trailer this car to the track and instead drive this car about three hours to Willow Springs and then back again so my goal is to enjoy it as much as possible in it's stock form, but upgrade a few things to make it look better and handle better and stop better.

Thanks so much for any advice you guys can offer me as I just get started in this hobby

 

[Sirl]

My car was a 2000 GT, so, no IRS for me.
However, I ran Koni Yellows which are SA or Single Adjustable dampers with the HR Super Race Springs. I did eventually go to coil overs BUT, I was VERY happy with the Koni/H&R set up for a long time.

The car was 100% street driven, still able to take the wife out for drives, and not feel like it was to stiff. I would go that route for now. The adjustment on the shocks makes a noticeable difference.

Secondly, all the parts you mentioned in the last paragraph are a MUST.

Find a set of 95 Cobra R style wheels with a good set of 200 Treadwear tires, NT05, RA1, there are lots to choose from, and you can drive to and from the track while still having a good time on the track (and on the street)

Seat is a must! You are probably fighting with every turn to stay in the seat. A good seat takes all that extra work out of it, so you can focus on your apex's rather than working out your fore arms.

SS Brake lines are a must as well, just for a safety standpoint. Also, find a good set of Y2K Cobra R Brakes and good pads, I have always used Hawk DTC 70's and the 60's in the rear. I swapped brake pads the week prior to an event and never had any issues with driving the race pads on the street. They worked 100% fine, other than some noise and lots of brake dust. Another tip... you MUST clean that brake dust off asap. It is corrosive to the wheels and, if they get wet, and the brake dust sits on the, it will ruin the wheels.

All the above will make your track day a MUCH more fun experience.

And lastly, the above comments are just one mans experiences/suggestions. You may get several other, varying opinions.

 

[DSCobra01]

Mitch, thank you so much for your comments! I'll look in to the Koni Yellows and see how they match up with my H&R Race springs. I'm going to start purchasing parts in the next few weeks so I still have time to decide. Thanks again!

 

[DSCobra01]

It looks like MM is having a sale on Koni Yellows. What are the benefits of a double adjustable over a single adjustable? I read the doubles may be more fragile and probably a little overkill for my setup and needs. Agree that I focus on the singles only?

Single - $623 - http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Koni-Package-SA-Struts-Shocks-1999-04-Cobra-IRS-P1336.aspx
For aggressive street driving
External adjustment for rebound damping

Double - $875 - http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Koni-Package-DA-Struts-SA-Shocks-1999-04-Cobra-IRS-P1042.aspx
For aggressive street driving, autocross, road racing, and drag racing
Separate external adjustments for rebound and compression (struts only, shocks only have rebound adjustment)

In either case, it looks like both of these will work fine with my H&R Race springs

Thanks,
Andy

 

[Sirl]

For a few track days a year, yeah, stick with the SA.
I am a "Set it and forget it" type of guy. I prefer a good product with less adjustments... Many might disagree, but thats just me. I'm not good enough to know when I need a little more or less rebound, etc.

I usually start of full stiff, and end up softening up the rears for a little more grip.

My car was not a DD, just a weekend fun car, and about 4-7 track days a year. I had about -2.3 camber and just left it alone. I didnt notice any excessive wear from street driving, fyi.

These mods you will feel right away, big noticeable difference. Once you go beyond shocks, springs, tires, brakes, seat, everything else will make small incremental changes, IMO.

Do those and you should be very happy with the car.

Beyond that, maybe a bolt in roll bar... (not looking for an argument here) But a bar with removable harness bar worked well for me, then some nice 5pt harnesses, and a HANS is a must, imo.

 

[jg61354]

For a few track days a year, yeah, stick with the SA.
I am a "Set it and forget it" type of guy. I prefer a good product with less adjustments... Many might disagree, but thats just me. I'm not good enough to know when I need a little more or less rebound, etc.

I usually start of full stiff, and end up softening up the rears for a little more grip.

My car was not a DD, just a weekend fun car, and about 4-7 track days a year. I had about -2.3 camber and just left it alone. I didnt notice any excessive wear from street driving, fyi.

These mods you will feel right away, big noticeable difference. Once you go beyond shocks, springs, tires, brakes, seat, everything else will make small incremental changes, IMO.

Do those and you should be very happy with the car.

Beyond that, maybe a bolt in roll bar... (not looking for an argument here) But a bar with removable harness bar worked well for me, then some nice 5pt harnesses, and a HANS is a must, imo.

I bought Mitches old car and with the exception of dropping in a Coyote and TKO 500 everything else is exactly the same. I do H9DE group 4 with NASA and the car is a steady reliable car and gets around Sebring pretty good. I think Mitch gives you good advice.

 

[Sirl]

Thanks Jim,
I sure miss it too

 

[DSCobra01]

Thank you both for your honest feedback and I appreciate hearing from someone that's already been there before me

 

[DSCobra01]

Oh and regarding the removable harness bar, yes I was considering that option so that I can secure myself in the car with the 5 point seat belts. But I wanted something permanent that would be able to come out for the rest of the year when I wasn't at the track. Any recommendations?

 

[Blkkbgt]

The only thing I have to add it get off the fence and buy the FTBR kit. What the kit does for ride quality and handling is amazing.

 

[DSCobra01]

The only thing I have to add it get off the fence and buy the FTBR kit. What the kit does for ride quality and handling is amazing.

What kit do you have, FT5000 or FT5001? I see there is a $100 difference and there is one component that is different between the two kits. Why would one get one kit over the other?

Also, what does the install price for something like this typically cost?

Thanks Blkkbgt!

 

[ac427cobra]

What kit do you have, FT5000 or FT5001? I see there is a $100 difference and there is one component that is different between the two kits. Why would one get one kit over the other?

Also, what does the install price for something like this typically cost?

Thanks Blkkbgt!

The differences between the two kit is explained in the FAQ on our site:

http://fulltiltboogieracing.com/faqs.htm#2_kits

Another question in the FAQ on our site also addresses installation:

http://fulltiltboogieracing.com/faqs.htm#long_job_take

In that same link you will also see prep and installation videos of the kit.

Here's another question in the FAQ that explains why the rear suspension should be upgraded before the front suspension:

http://fulltiltboogieracing.com/faqs.htm#Upgrade Front

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:

 

[DSCobra01]

Thanks Bruce, and regarding the driveline vibe that is mentioned in the FAQ, can you explain that a little further? Are you talking about the common vibe/surge in our cars (at least the 01's as far a I know) usually present around 80 mph going down the freeway in top gear?

 

[ac427cobra]

Thanks Bruce, and regarding the driveline vibe that is mentioned in the FAQ, can you explain that a little further? Are you talking about the common vibe/surge in our cars (at least the 01's as far a I know) usually present around 80 mph going down the freeway in top gear?

All Cobra IRS cars have mismatched driveline angles from the factory. However, not all of them have a high speed driveline vibe. This vibe can be anywhere from 60 mph up through 140 mph and higher. If your car does not have this vibe, you 'may' not need the FT 1401 Delrin isolated rear diff lowering mount contained in the more expensive FT 5001 kit. The reason I say 'may' is because if you have upgraded power or like to do occasional drag launches, you will want to opt for the stronger FT 1401 rear diff mount. But typically road racers do not put the kinds of stresses on the differential mounts that drag racers do.

But if you are going to be doing more open track events, you will also want to consider the Ford Racing diff cover with the diff cooling connection points already in it. You WILL eventually need a diff cooler as you get up to speed on track.

Hope that helps.

 

[DSCobra01]

Sirl and jg61354, changing gears slightly, considering my plans for the car, what would you say regarding brakes?

Rotors - I hear to stay away from cross drilled rotors as they are prone to cracking that much sooner. I do have a feeling that my stock rotors may be slightly warped so I'm looking to upgrade to either PowerSlot or Stoptech. What do you think?

Pads - Hawk is probably the most popular brand I see on the MM site as well as AmericanMuscle. Do you have another suggested brand or would I be ok with HP-Plus (considering they will be an improvement over stock and I will also use them on the street)

SS brake lines - MM has a kit for about $200 and AmericanMuscle has a brand called "Russell" for $150. Are all pretty much the same?

Fluid - I got a recommendation from someone I race with that Motul's RBF600 is a good fluid for the track that I can also use for the street. What are your thoughts?

Part of me really wants the 2000 Cobra R big brake kit for the front but at around $1,200, it's a little out of my price range for everything else I need to do to get the car ready for the Fall. I also think it's a bit overkill for my current skill level as the Cobra brakes are pretty good to begin with.

Thanks again!

 

[Sirl]

Rotors:
I have always used stock Cobra rotors. Reliable, never cracked, plenty of life and no issues what so ever. I know many of my friends do the same. I've used Centric, they are rather cheap, but again, no issues. And yes, stay away from drilled.

Pads:
I've always used the Hawk DTC 70's, however, there is another pad that some guys are using that seem to be just as good, and there is one site that sells them CHEAP. http://www.randallraceparts.com/
Raybestos sells a race pad. ST47 is the compound. My friend has been racing them in Spec Iron with excellent results. Randall sells them for.. about 80 bucks! Yes, you heard me right, $80.oo. EVery other site has them for about 280. I spoke to them and its not a mistake.

SS Lines:
Russell is probably the leader in SS lines of all kinds. Been around forever.

Fluid:
I also use Motul 600. Many people say Castrol SRF is just as good, little less expensive. I have not checked it out

Brakes:
You can find a good set of Y2K brakes on line for 450-600. But yes, the PBR Cobras will do fine for the most part. There will come a time when you want more brake, but you can certainly use the PBR's for now.

Again, my .02 cents,

 

[DSCobra01]

Great feedback again as usual and thanks for your suggestions!

 

[vuzikis]

Street Tack Driven Mustang

Hello Mustang owner. I live pretty close to you and I own three Mustangs myself road race two of them. Some of the above suggestions are good ones but others are sending you on tangents and will not help you at all. If you need some help with your car I am more than willing to give you a few pointers.

Great feedback again as usual and thanks for your suggestions!