Subframe connectors

snakeraper11b

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I have a 2003 Convertible and I am looking into subframe connectors.

Anybody have any input on the Global West Competition Subframe Connectors (convertible) Part #929c ?

Also anybody got any installed pictures for me to look at?

Competition Subframe Connectors for Convertible

Waste of money. Maximum Motorsports full length connectors are all you will ever need.
 

nextime

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The guys over at Full Tilt Boogie recommended these to me since I wanted their kit and I had a Convertible.
 

SLPRCTM

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Well, I have the Global West and like them. I do open track days and the car feels pretty solid.
Sorry but this is the best pic I have of them.

505d8ace.jpg
 

0-MYSTACHROME-4

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Global West Subframe Connectors are Superior and they go on all my Mustangs, and i believe they are a step above Maximum Motorsports FLSFC because they really do a great job of tying together the unibody. Convertibles need as much support as possible... Get the Global West Subs, you wont regret it and you will thanks me later.
 

snakeraper11b

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Global West Subframe Connectors are Superior and they go on all my Mustangs, and i believe they are a step above Maximum Motorsports FLSFC because they really do a great job of tying together the unibody. Convertibles need as much support as possible... Get the Global West Subs, you wont regret it and you will thanks me later.

All the global west SFC's do is combine a regular subframe connector with a jacking rail and cross supports....The cross supports do nothing because there is almost zero twisting forces in that part of the chassis. The tube is round, which is more prone to bending and there is very very very little surface area for the SFC to attach. Waste of weight and money. If this design worked, griggs and MM would be all over it....
 

shurur

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global west and stifflers subframes are recommended by FTBR...he races his car.

Another option is that you can go MM SFC for now and add stiflers fit system to it later if you like.

Like most mods...unless you really push your car...it is mostly subjective..
 
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nextime

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Ever see a square roll cage? All roll cages are round tubing cause they resist bending much more than a flat surface (square tubing).

Square is much easier to cut and work with and that is probably why they use it.

Doesn't NASCAR and Trophy racing trucks use all round tubing for their frames?

All good quality k-members made out of round tubing?

The round tubing transfers the load evenly, square stops at the bends.

Look at all of the arches that support bridges and doorways under heavy old buildings. The arch transfers the weight easier that is why they use round.

If square was really so strong all of our tie-rod ends would be square and the whole IRS assembly would have been square.

The fact is round is stronger than square.

Now it is more economical to use square in real world applications due to how easy it is to work with but any real frame maker will use round tubing in most of the frame.



All the global west SFC's do is combine a regular subframe connector with a jacking rail and cross supports....The cross supports do nothing because there is almost zero twisting forces in that part of the chassis. The tube is round, which is more prone to bending and there is very very very little surface area for the SFC to attach. Waste of weight and money. If this design worked, griggs and MM would be all over it....
 

shurur

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don't hate me

I thought as you did as well

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/suspension-modifications-211/816418-global-west-subframes.html


Tubing Selection for Recumbents: Theoretical



Ever see a square roll cage? All roll cages are round tubing cause they resist bending much more than a flat surface (square tubing).

Square is much easier to cut and work with and that is probably why they use it.

Doesn't NASCAR and Trophy racing trucks use all round tubing for their frames?

All good quality k-members made out of round tubing?

The round tubing transfers the load evenly, square stops at the bends.

Look at all of the arches that support bridges and doorways under heavy old buildings. The arch transfers the weight easier that is why they use round.

If square was really so strong all of our tie-rod ends would be square and the whole IRS assembly would have been square.

The fact is round is stronger than square.

Now it is more economical to use square in real world applications due to how easy it is to work with but any real frame maker will use round tubing in most of the frame.
 

SLPRCTM

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All the global west SFC's do is combine a regular subframe connector with a jacking rail and cross supports....The cross supports do nothing because there is almost zero twisting forces in that part of the chassis. The tube is round, which is more prone to bending and there is very very very little surface area for the SFC to attach. Waste of weight and money. If this design worked, griggs and MM would be all over it....

The cross supports are usefull. I have the underside plate from my roll bar welded to the cross supports. This ties the roll bar into the structure of the vehicle rather than just the floor pan. This also means my subframes are now tied into the rear of the car twice. Once under the car and the other through the roll bar's rear bars.
 

nextime

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I was still up in the air about what brand I was getting when I posted this thread but I had a few ideas and wanted more info on other suggestions but mainly on the Global West units.

Anyway I was over at Full Tilt Boogie today talking to Bruce. Bruce you know is an expert at the suspension systems on our cars. He told me all about the brands and what they can do. He said the MM ones are good but not good enough for the Convertibles. He even suggested another brand but he said for what I want it is overkill but the Global West units are perfect.

Anyway maybe you could call Bruce and tell him HE IS WRONG and doesn't know as much as you do?

And it is MY CAR not yours and I did appreciate your suggestions till you got bent out of shape cause I didn't take your advice, I hope you don't do this to other members and then tell them to enjoy their heavy ass cars cause you didn't get your way.

Maybe from now on I could just PM you and you can tell me what I should do to your I mean my car?

And where did you get the quote below saying "I already had my mind made up before posting the thread."

Now go stomp your feet and walk away and tell your Mom on me!


"Anyone have any input? Na, F ur advice, I already had my mind made up before posting the thread." lol enjoy your heavy ass car.
 

Vnmous97

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i would take the advice from full tilt boogie racing .. they know what works!!!
a full length subframe connector that attaches to the pinch weld is better because it is part of the UNIBODY that we are trying to make more rigid!
but on to the weight ... how much more can it really weigh... 10-20 lbs if that??
on an already heavy drop top car that will see more weight than that with a full tank of fuel.
Now the real question what do you do with the car? daily driver, drag car , weekend auto x?
or do you just want to get rid of that slight creak when you go up a driveway ?

if you have the $400 to spend on the connectors GO FOR IT , the stiffer chassis is just that much more fun in the twistys
 

RDJ

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if ALL you use is MM FLSFC I would probably agree with bruce. but I have added a matrix brace and jacking rail to mine in my 'vert and I would stack it against most anything else all day long.




I was still up in the air about what brand I was getting when I posted this thread but I had a few ideas and wanted more info on other suggestions but mainly on the Global West units.

Anyway I was over at Full Tilt Boogie today talking to Bruce. Bruce you know is an expert at the suspension systems on our cars. He told me all about the brands and what they can do. He said the MM ones are good but not good enough for the Convertibles. He even suggested another brand but he said for what I want it is overkill but the Global West units are perfect.

Anyway maybe you could call Bruce and tell him HE IS WRONG and doesn't know as much as you do?

And it is MY CAR not yours and I did appreciate your suggestions till you got bent out of shape cause I didn't take your advice, I hope you don't do this to other members and then tell them to enjoy their heavy ass cars cause you didn't get your way.

Maybe from now on I could just PM you and you can tell me what I should do to your I mean my car?

And where did you get the quote below saying "I already had my mind made up before posting the thread."

Now go stomp your feet and walk away and tell your Mom on me!
 
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nextime

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I want the car to handle correctly, nothing more, nothing less. I would like to try Autocross someday and I like drag racing and real twisty roads. I do not enjoy how unpredictable the IRS is right now when I try to have fun, it is too sloppy.

Ford clearly dropped the ball on the IRS during the design and Bruce at Full Tilt Boogie corrected all the flaws with the IRS.

Now the subframe connectors Bruce explained how the Convertible is weakened due to no hard top like the coupes. The Global West connectors will make the car much more rigid VS the regular MM subframe connectors and if I had a coupe the MM subframes would be good.

Thanks for posting all the pictures and thanks for explaining why the unit I plan on installing will work better than FLFSC.
 

Jroc

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If you want to do Global West then also look at the Stifflers FIT system.
Chassis Stiffening FIT System 1994-2004 Mustang

If all you want is FLSFC's then I recommend Steeda over MM. They are pretty much the same thing eccept the Steeda SFC's come with torque box re-enforcement plate which is a nice thing to have when you thing that the SFC's are welded to the torque boxes which aren't the strongest in the world to begin with. I have installed both Steeda and MM FLSFC's.
Steeda Full Length Subframe Connector (79-04 Mustang) 555-5245 - Free Shipping!

If you really want to beef up the car then do in-floor SFC's with a cage tied into them. Still you probably don't want to hack up your floor, and it can be a little time consuming, and you have to be careful(measure twice, and cut once kind of careful) Still you cut into the floor and the subframes of a Foxbody/SN95 and you will quickly understand why people say they are on flinsy/outdated chassis. Even the front subframe only uses about 19 ga(about .041" thick) material as does the floor boards. The rear subframes are about 12 ga(a little over .100" thick) material.
 
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Vnmous97

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most of that slop you are talking about is the IRS walking around because the complete IRS is mounted in rubber for a nice smooth ride and to cut down on harshness
the sub frame connectors will only cure the chassis flex, if you want to get rid of that feeling like the ass is walking around you need the bushing kit from Bruce
 

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