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SVT Shelby GT500
Strange Noise After 13/14 Driveshaft Upgrade
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<blockquote data-quote="SCGallo2" data-source="post: 16351386" data-attributes="member: 160791"><p>There is more than one way to skin this cat. The method I depicted is the simplest and will produce the best results. A level “drive-on” lift would work just as well. What is important is to duplicate the suspension and driveline angle conditions as if you are driving on the street, because that is where you will feel vibrations or hear noises if measurements and settings are off [and occupant weight and fuel level (weight distribution) can have an effect which necessitates fine tuning]. </p><p></p><p>Yes, you are correct, you can lift all the tires off the ground and then load only the rear suspension with pole jacks. But… how do you know when you have 100% static load on the rear axle or start to redistribute weight front to rear? While it might be good enough for our purposes of dialing in a drive shaft on a street car, I don’t believe it is as accurate as the vehicle’s normal static weight in a level condition. Your vehicle’s suspension rake comes into play with weight distribution also. Part of my occupation involves weighing aircraft, small and large, and determining CG (center of gravity), so pardon me if I take weight distribution a little too seriously.</p><p></p><p>Your initial inquiry about loading the rear suspension involved removing the rear springs, and after reading it again, I have a better understanding of what you are describing and agree that your initial measurement would be valid, but once you start adjusting the UCA or LCAs or both, you may be introducing other variables (like altering wheelbase which affects weight distribution) depending on how much adjustment is required. I would not do it that way.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SCGallo2, post: 16351386, member: 160791"] There is more than one way to skin this cat. The method I depicted is the simplest and will produce the best results. A level “drive-on” lift would work just as well. What is important is to duplicate the suspension and driveline angle conditions as if you are driving on the street, because that is where you will feel vibrations or hear noises if measurements and settings are off [and occupant weight and fuel level (weight distribution) can have an effect which necessitates fine tuning]. Yes, you are correct, you can lift all the tires off the ground and then load only the rear suspension with pole jacks. But… how do you know when you have 100% static load on the rear axle or start to redistribute weight front to rear? While it might be good enough for our purposes of dialing in a drive shaft on a street car, I don’t believe it is as accurate as the vehicle’s normal static weight in a level condition. Your vehicle’s suspension rake comes into play with weight distribution also. Part of my occupation involves weighing aircraft, small and large, and determining CG (center of gravity), so pardon me if I take weight distribution a little too seriously. Your initial inquiry about loading the rear suspension involved removing the rear springs, and after reading it again, I have a better understanding of what you are describing and agree that your initial measurement would be valid, but once you start adjusting the UCA or LCAs or both, you may be introducing other variables (like altering wheelbase which affects weight distribution) depending on how much adjustment is required. I would not do it that way. [/QUOTE]
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Strange Noise After 13/14 Driveshaft Upgrade
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