Straight Outta Luck - Header Studs Question

[fordguy_1997]

Hey all,

I decided to go with an offroad X for the cobra as a temporary fix until I can formally redo the entire system the way I would want it - but as I’ve begun the process to swap them I’ve run into one hell of a brick wall and would appreciate some guidance.

The bolts that connect the header flange to the midpipe is where my trouble is. On the driver side - I snapped both nuts off the bolt, and now that I’m pretty much ready to put this in those broken studs are the Bain of my existence.

I have tried excessive heat, WD-40, a vice grip and wiggling it. The bottom one is the only one I’ve messed with, and it’s pretty jacked up. I do have it somewhat free as it does wiggle when I put a vice grip on it but it doesn’t let me turn it too far in either direction.

So my question is - are the studs that hold the midpipe to the headers screwed in, or are they pressed in? And at this point if you were me, and a shop was not an option for an out, and you would really really prefer not taking the front end apart just to address this - what would you do to remove these? And are the constraints that I listed impossible to achieve while still getting them out and I just have to accept that either the K member needs to drop or is this just beyond me?

I included a picture for reference - safe to say the threads are not usable for either one. Thank you guys.

 

[03' White Snake]

They are threaded in. Need a ton of heat to get them out. After you get them out, you should just use bolts going up and not studs with nuts.

You can try yourself if you are handy, get it glowing red hot, try vice grips etc. or if you have a welder, weld a nut onto it and use a socket to back them out.

On my old GT when I was young and dumb, I broke one too, I had a local exhaust shop get it out for me, I had both removed and I used bolts going up instead of studs and it was so much better than studs.

 

[vr4]

heat the manifold flange around the studs. if its not glowing orange you need more heat. (i work in an exhaust shop)

 

[01yellercobra]

The last time I messed with those I used a mix of PB Blaster, heat, and these:

https://www.amazon.com/Valkynos-Extractor-Stripped-Removal-Rounded-Off/dp/B0DP8DGH9D?th=1

Personally I prefer to keep the studs. Seemed easier to deal with. But I know it's just a preference. You used to be able to get the replacements at the parts store in the Help! section.

Mustang Exhaust Stud Kit; M10-1.5 x 62mm (99-04 Mustang GT, V6) - Free Shipping

FREE SHIPPING! Rigid Exhaust Mounting. Secure your exhaust system by using this Exhaust Stud Kit to mount your hardware. This set of studs will tightly hold you

www.americanmuscle.com

https://www.partsgeek.com/3tj6svl-ford-mustang-exhaust-flange-stud-and-nut.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_content=UK&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&utm_term=1999-2010+Ford+Mustang+Exhaust+Flange+Stud+and+Nut+Dorman+Front+99-10+Ford+Exhaust+Flange+Stud+and+Nut+2007+2009&srsltid=AfmBOoop9WFFdixbn3V4DPVKP9hkjagUULTAIM8yLAtqepZ8ZQEdlOIuvRY

 

[fordguy_1997]

Welp…. I got the studs out and kept on moving forward. Everything was going well with the install and it’s pretty much in the car now, but I have one last issue. I have a header to midpipe leak and I for the life of me cannot figure out why.

Now - it is important to note that this midpipe came off of a GT, but from what I have read midpipes for GTs and Cobras are interchangeable. I have included photos of where it is currently with the leak. I do believe that the flange is super bent (on the midpipe side) compared to the one on the stock h pipe that seems flat. But I’m just at a loss here. I don’t believe there’s any gaskets on the driver side that I have to be concerned about.

Any advice on how to close this out would be appreciated. Everything else checks out - no leaks, fitment is fine, o2 sensors are in. I have hit a roadblock at every possible step of this swap, and this one’s just the insult to injury since it’s right at the point of being wrapped up otherwise.

 

[01yellercobra]

The mid pipes are interchangeable as you found. The one on my car started on a 98 GT, then went on an 01 Cobra, and now the 04.

You need to straighten that flange. That's probably 99% of your leak. And make sure you're not running out of threads on the bolts after it's straightened out.

 

[fordguy_1997]

The mid pipes are interchangeable as you found. The one on my car started on a 98 GT, then went on an 01 Cobra, and now the 04.

You need to straighten that flange. That's probably 99% of your leak. And make sure you're not running out of threads on the bolts after it's straightened out.

What’s the best way to go about straightening it?

 

[03' White Snake]

Remove the mid pipe, use a large adjustable wrench and straighten the flange. Make sure the ball socket is not dented or bent either. Straighten it the best you can with the adjustable wrench. Use the largest OD washer you can fit on the bolts and tighten it up again. Looks like you tightened 1 side all the way then the next, you cannot do that. Need to tighten them both down a little at a time. Make sure the rear of the midpipe is raised up and supported when you start to tighten the upper we bolts. Also make sure to tighten both connections to the manifolds at the same time so they are centered on both sides.

When I said use bolts, I meant thread them into the holes from the mid-pipe side into the manifold, not thru bolting like you have shown. This would let you use a larger diameter bolt and have better clamping then what you are showing.

 

[fordguy_1997]

Remove the mid pipe, use a large adjustable wrench and straighten the flange. Make sure the ball socket is not dented or bent either. Straighten it the best you can with the adjustable wrench. Use the largest OD washer you can fit on the bolts and tighten it up again. Looks like you tightened 1 side all the way then the next, you cannot do that. Need to tighten them both down a little at a time. Make sure the rear of the midpipe is raised up and supported when you start to tighten the upper we bolts. Also make sure to tighten both connections to the manifolds at the same time so they are centered on both sides.

When I said use bolts, I meant thread them into the holes from the mid-pipe side into the manifold, not thru bolting like you have shown. This would let you use a larger diameter bolt and have better clamping then what you are showing.

When I used the bolts I saw that there were exposed threads due to of course the bolts being long enough for them to actually catch. I figured that was a problem and went ahead with running a new stud on one side while keeping the bolt on the other. I was going to simply re-stud both ends at this point to have the same oem setup to start, but I can swap to bolts that feed into the manifold from the midpipe side of that excess threading is acceptable.

I’ll work on straightening out the flange tomorrow as I’m sure replacing it isn’t going to be fun and probably come at a cost. So I’ll just go ahead and figure out how to straighten it, probably heat it in the process and then let it cool and harden so it isn’t as prone to deformation when reinstalling.

I’ll post the condition of the ball and socket tomorrow just to ensure that nothing looks awry with that as well. Hopefully after the flange ordeal and then proper torquing procedure this clears up the issue.

 

[hotcobra03]

These ball flange fittings.
I had used grease and a rubber mallet.

I tried to pull it evenly little on 1 side a little on the other.

I had a connection at muffler where I had to shim metal between clamp and flared end to get clamp to hold tighter

 

[fordguy_1997]

Welp….. ended up taking the exhaust pipe to a shop for an opinion - after dropping it I realized the flange was warped bad. Was not smooth at all. So that was causing it to not seat right and leak.

Now, interestingly enough - the pipe that I bought is 2.5 inches, but the oem midpipe is 2 1/4 inch (which is quite small for the cobra imho). So I opted for them to weld in a fresh 2.5 inch flare connection and replace the flange with a flat one. Now at this point with all of that done - it should now seal correctly, right? The fact that it is 2.5 as opposed to 2 1/4 isn’t a large enough difference to make it impossible for it to seal? Or should I have had them weld on a 2 1/4 inch connection?

I only ask because it seems that 2.5 isn’t a very common exhaust setup to run and I don’t know of people having to make adjustments to get that size to fit on really any new edge. Just wanting confirmation that the logic I’m using is sound as I felt a 2 1/4 inch connector would have in essence bottlenecked the midpipe and defeated the purpose of the slightly larger piping.

 

[vr4]

2.5 is probably THE most common size on these cars. youll be fine with the 2.5 as long as its welded, positioned, and installed properly. you REALLY should have handed them your car and the pipe and paid them. now that theyre doing this without the car as the "jig" all bets are off that itll fit right.


when tightening ball sockets you never tighten one side down all the way. you need to keep the flange somewhat level and tighten both nuts down evenly.

 

[01yellercobra]

2.5 is probably THE most common size on these cars. youll be fine with the 2.5 as long as its welded, positioned, and installed properly. you REALLY should have handed them your car and the pipe and paid them. now that theyre doing this without the car as the "jig" all bets are off that itll fit right.


when tightening ball sockets you never tighten one side down all the way. you need to keep the flange somewhat level and tighten both nuts down evenly.

What he said. 99% of us are running 2.5" pipes. The big power people are running 3". But that's a different conversation.

They do make gaskets for those ball and socket joints. Or you could try some orange RTV just in case.

 

[fordguy_1997]

It’s all in boys!

I took the pipe to a shop, and they confirmed the flared connector on the midpipe was just cooked. So they welded on a new one, and everything checked out. No more manifold leak. The car sounds like a straight piped cobra with the SLP LM1/offroad X combo - but it’s something I enjoy so that’s what matters most (the neighbors I’ll handle at a later time lol).

Now the only problem I’m running into is that the exhaust hangs super low. Has inches between itself and the ground and I don’t know the best way to go about that. If anyone has any tips I’d be grateful as I don’t want to tear up the pipes or have them separate while driving. I was scraping over road imperfections which to me is too low for comfort. I included pictures for reference.

Thank you guys for all the help on this as always. Without these forums this car would have been cooked a long time ago. I am always grateful for the wisdom and insight.

 

[01yellercobra]

I think that's lower than my mid pipe. And mine hangs low. Honestly your only options are going to be raising the car or having the exhaust shop tweak it.

 

[hotcobra03]

i had to loosen my mid section both ends and hold it up with jack and than tighten .

its what worked for me

 

[03' White Snake]

i had to loosen my mid section both ends and hold it up with jack and than tighten .

its what worked for me

This exactly.

 

[fordguy_1997]

This exactly.

This exactly +1 was the perfect trick. I did this though and the manifold to midpipe leak came back so I said forget it - dropped it, added some copper gasket sealant, reinstalled, torqued as instructed and she’s good to go now. Jacked the pipe from both sides towards the front and got everything tight and she sits much higher now. The job is officially done. And she sounds much meaner than she did previously.

Note it’s just the waiting game until I get the big boy funds for long tubes and 3 inch piping all around. Again - thank you guys for all the help. After 4 days spent on a 2 hour job - the cars all good.

 

[01yellercobra]

No need for 3". Plenty of people in the 700-800 range with 2.5". Save yourself a couple pennies.

 

[vr4]

The car sounds like a straight piped cobra with the SLP LM1/offroad X combo - but it’s something I enjoy so that’s what matters most (the neighbors I’ll handle at a later time lol).

it is a straight piped cobra. the SLPs are simply an empty tube that looks like a resonator on the outside.