Stereo install questions

RioRed4v

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At work, so I dont have my car in front of me to measure what length cables I need.

Getting set to order some power cables and supporting install pieces. How long of a power cable has everyone been running? The amp will be in the trunk.

Planning on running an Audio Control LC6i to control the amp, and from what I can tell that is installed in the trunk as well. If thats the case, then I'm guessing I only need a couple feet of RCA's and remote wire?

And lastly, with the replacing the stock speakers, is there a good wire adapter harness to use instead of cutting/splicing the stock harness?

Thanks guys:beer:
 

Tuffnuts23

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Is the Metra adapter the one that has the speaker wires reversed? I had read something about that (trying to find it again) where either the Scosche or Metra adapter has the wires reversed.

This!! Get the crutchfield harness for the door speakers. As for your power wire. Pick up a 0 gauge wiring kit. It will be long enough and come with the fuse and ground wire. I used an LC2i and the signal sensing auto turn on feature is awesome. Saves you from having to run a remote wire. Here is a pic of mine. It's almost done, need to make a cover

23CF38D9-346C-42DE-887F-2570E92B7AF6-10467-000006AA452A5643.jpg
 

RioRed4v

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Is the crutchfield harness just re-branded? I wasn't ordering from crutchfield and would prefer to order it all (or most of it) from one spot.

I think 0 gauge will be a bit overkill for me as well. I was likely just going to run a 4gauge power/ground wire and a 150a fuse. If I remember correctly, thats how I had it previously set up.
 

Tuffnuts23

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Is the crutchfield harness just re-branded? I wasn't ordering from crutchfield and would prefer to order it all (or most of it) from one spot.

I think 0 gauge will be a bit overkill for me as well. I was likely just going to run a 4gauge power/ground wire and a 150a fuse. If I remember correctly, thats how I had it previously set up.

The crutchfield harness is wired correctly so your speakers won't be out of phase. I had a 4 gauge kit, but that LC2i puts out more than 12 volts, which means your amp is going to put out a bit more power. That 1000 watt JL amp was putting out closer to 1200 watts. It was too much for the 4 gauge. The 0 gauge might be overkill at the moment, but if you ever decided to add another amp or go bigger, power won't be an issue.
 

pohnjarker

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tuffnuts, that's pretty badass. I used a PAC line out converter and hooked it to the back speaker for power. it worked real well until a coil on my sub died...

I also ran a 0 gauge wire kit...it may be overkill but it will leave room for growth and will have an easier time than the 4 gauge supplying power.
 

RioRed4v

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Hmm.. didnt realize that "issue" with the LC6i. Guess I can go that route with the 0g wire. I've only used it once, but it was a bit of a b1tch running through the car, atleast IMO.

If I go that route, what size fuse should I run? My amp is an Audioque 1200d
 

Tuffnuts23

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Hmm.. didnt realize that "issue" with the LC6i. Guess I can go that route with the 0g wire. I've only used it once, but it was a bit of a b1tch running through the car, atleast IMO.

If I go that route, what size fuse should I run? My amp is an Audioque 1200d

A 0 gauge kit usually comes with a 250 amp fuse, I think. That "issue" with the LCi products is actually kind of cool. It's like overclocking a computer processor. I have 2 JL10w6's running off that 1000 watt JL. These speakers can handle 500 watts a piece all day, but the first time I turned it up I almost shot them through my windshield. Lesson learned.
 

RioRed4v

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Was going to order my wiring from Knukonceptz and noticed their 0g wire kit comes with a choice of fuses. Just need to decide to stick with the 150a or go with 200a.

Probably will end up going with the Metra harness and hopefully I can swap the wires around on them. Going that route since I can get them included in my speaker and LC6i order.

Now Ill have to figure out how to stuff a 0g wire in my amp lol
 

Tuffnuts23

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Was going to order my wiring from Knukonceptz and noticed their 0g wire kit comes with a choice of fuses. Just need to decide to stick with the 150a or go with 200a.

Probably will end up going with the Metra harness and hopefully I can swap the wires around on them. Going that route since I can get them included in my speaker and LC6i order.

Now Ill have to figure out how to stuff a 0g wire in my amp lol

Go with the 200amp fuse. You can just cut the harness wires and swap them, no biggie. Pick up a distribution block. If you look at the pic I posted, I have 0 gauge coming into the distribution block and 4 gauge coming out to the amplifiers. This also allows you to easily add amps if you feel the need later on.
 

RioRed4v

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Go with the 200amp fuse. You can just cut the harness wires and swap them, no biggie. Pick up a distribution block. If you look at the pic I posted, I have 0 gauge coming into the distribution block and 4 gauge coming out to the amplifiers. This also allows you to easily add amps if you feel the need later on.

Yea, I was trying to avoid the extra purchase of a distribution block.

Havent decided if I'll be adding a second amp later on or not, otherwise I would be all over it.

How long are your RCA's?
 

Tuffnuts23

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Yea, I was trying to avoid the extra purchase of a distribution block.

Havent decided if I'll be adding a second amp later on or not, otherwise I would be all over it.

How long are your RCA's?

2 feet, I think. I ordered these from monoprice.com. Awesome quality and dirt cheap compared to any car audio retailer.
 

RioRed4v

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Cool. Thanks for the help man.

Should be set to order everything up. Any good writeups on how to install the LC6i?

Also, was it fairly easy to run the 0g wire through the car?
 

Tuffnuts23

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Cool. Thanks for the help man.

Should be set to order everything up. Any good writeups on how to install the LC6i?

Also, was it fairly easy to run the 0g wire through the car?

Do you already have the 6i? If not, I recommend going with the 2i. The 6i is nice if you are really trying to dial in a complex SQ system. If you want to add a couple amps for bass and highs, the 2i is the way to go. If you are only adding 1 amp and a couple subs, the 6i is way too much.
As for running the 0 gauge, its not too bad. Pop the hood, remove the front passenger side tire and splash shield. There is a hole in the fender right next to battery, pretty convenient, feed the wire through the fender hole down into the tire well. You'll see a big rubber grommet in the fire wall, poke a hole in that and lube up the wire with some dish soap. From there it's pretty easy. Let me know if you get stuck somewhere.
 

pohnjarker

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my installer ran my 0 gauge from the battery, across the back of the engine and down into the firewall behind my pedals, down the side of the car and into the back.

just another option on where to go. not sure which is better but it didnt look too bad under the hood.
 

CharlieR

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At work, so I dont have my car in front of me to measure what length cables I need.

Getting set to order some power cables and supporting install pieces. How long of a power cable has everyone been running? The amp will be in the trunk.

Planning on running an Audio Control LC6i to control the amp, and from what I can tell that is installed in the trunk as well. If thats the case, then I'm guessing I only need a couple feet of RCA's and remote wire?

And lastly, with the replacing the stock speakers, is there a good wire adapter harness to use instead of cutting/splicing the stock harness?

Thanks guys:beer:
It's best to Get the specs on your equipment, lay it out as you want it(on cardboard) and see where everything will sit. Use that to get your length for RCA's, ect.

Although 0(2 even) is overkill for a single amp it will not hurt anything and it will save you doing it a second time to upgrade(I went in behind the battery).

A signal processor that puts out 12v on the RCA's doesn't make your amp put out more power and one with 2v doesn't put out less. 90% of amps will put out its power(whether that is: what it's rated at, more or(sadly) less depends on design) at either end of this range. Is 12v better than 2v? Can be for a cleaner signal, but not always.

Your fuse @ the battery is to protect the wire(and the car) you can use a smaller fuse than the wire is rated(150) but never larger. This is another case where you can get a 0 gauge multi-amp kit for not much more $$ and save re buying later. I use KnuKonceptz wire/distribution/fuse blocks. I can highly recommend the KonFused fused distribution blocks.

Can see some of my and my Son's installs here:
2012-12-13_10-22-04_597 photo by CharlieR321 | Photobucket
 

CharlieR

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So I actually need a wire harness to replace my base door speakers with Fosgate T1682's?
Not a "must have" but if just swapping speakers and keeping factory wiring it keeps you from having to cut the factory connectors off.
It's really just like an adapter to plug into the ford speaker harness but with wires out to hook to aftermarket speakers.
 

RioRed4v

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Do you already have the 6i? If not, I recommend going with the 2i. The 6i is nice if you are really trying to dial in a complex SQ system. If you want to add a couple amps for bass and highs, the 2i is the way to go. If you are only adding 1 amp and a couple subs, the 6i is way too much.
As for running the 0 gauge, its not too bad. Pop the hood, remove the front passenger side tire and splash shield. There is a hole in the fender right next to battery, pretty convenient, feed the wire through the fender hole down into the tire well. You'll see a big rubber grommet in the fire wall, poke a hole in that and lube up the wire with some dish soap. From there it's pretty easy. Let me know if you get stuck somewhere.

Thanks again for the help. I'm hoping to install it all this next weekend.

I went with the 6i just for growth possibility and it wasnt much more than the 2i. But yea, the setup will currently just be the one amp/sub and then replacing all the speakers. A seperate amp for those speakers will likely be down the road.
 

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