Steigemeier Stage V Torque Plate Issues

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black 10th vert

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Is there any material details you guys need to know about the Casting? Epcor down the road from me produced the castings for Eaton M112 superchargers for the Mustang Cobra. I might be able to find out since the company I work for buys cast aluminum parts made by them.

Off subject
It would be cool if someone could buy and have Epcor modify the existing mold of m112 if they still have it and do not use it anymore.

This would be good if they had a suggestion for the proper filler rod, plate material, etc., but in reality, the only thing that can logically work long term would be if they cast a plate using the same aluminum, and spec'd out the correct filler rod, or a bolted interface like I suggested earlier. If using a bolted interface, then a billet plate could be used in place of a casting, as that would be stronger/more stable anyway. I've been thinking that I may just make my own billet plate to relace the thin cracked one, and do my own research on the attachment, since Steig. obviously has no interest in commenting on my idea - unless he just plans to implement it as HIS own idea...:rollseyes
 

IronTerp

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Brain, It appears pretty obvious that Bob feels the latest design that he uses insofar as aluminum plate type and thickness, and weld type and procedure, are totally adequate for a safe, durable, and functional torque plate on the Eaton. While JMD and others have posted that the addition of the torque plate can never be a safe modification, and that the weld will never hold regardless of materials/procedure used, there are others, apparently Bob included, that feel that it can be a safe and effective modification. Perhaps his silence on the subject is actually speaking volumes......

But the controversial nature of this issue and some of the comments that have been posted towards Steigemeier Porting, including yours below, can oftentime close the mouth while keeping the eyes and ears open.

Guess Bob doesn't care to even comment on it.:shrug:

Here's a reposted picture of the latest design and what I assume is the product that any Stage V owner will receive should they decide to retain the torque plate.

Stage5weldpictures006.jpg
 

black 10th vert

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Brain, It appears pretty obvious that Bob feels the latest design that he uses insofar as aluminum plate type and thickness, and weld type and procedure, are totally adequate for a safe, durable, and functional torque plate on the Eaton. While JMD and others have posted that the addition of the torque plate can never be a safe modification, and that the weld will never hold regardless of materials/procedure used, there are others, apparently Bob included, that feel that it can be a safe and effective modification. Perhaps his silence on the subject is actually speaking volumes......

But the controversial nature of this issue and some of the comments that have been posted towards Steigemeier Porting, including yours below, can oftentime close the mouth while keeping the eyes and ears open.



Here's a reposted picture of the latest design and what I assume is the product that any Stage V owner will receive should they decide to retain the torque plate.

Stage5weldpictures006.jpg

I hear what you are saying, but I wasn't looking to be "controversial", but rather to get other opinions on this. I had asked the question to Bob in my previous postings, but he just ignores it. Maybe it is like you say, or maybe it is because even HE is not so sure about the outcome, and is just doing damage control for now. I truly hope that his updated process with solve this, though, because I have to do something with my own stage 5, and if this proves to work, then I'd be happy to give it another try, otherwise I will either remove it completely, or machine a new billet plate, as I mentioned earlier.
 

ArgonWelding

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Welder chiming in

OK, here are some facts.

1 have read all 263 responses to this thread.

2 I am a welder of 20 yrs and own my own small fab shop here in Albuquerque, NM.

3 My reputation speaks for itself and before you try and tell me I am wrong you better call someone in ABQ and ask where you can get this done right and done now. Dollar to a donut says they send you to me. I will not say my shit doesn't stink, but they do take my shit out to the missile range and blow it up to better protect all of us.

The first pic does look a bit hairy. If I was putting something that thin into something that turbulent, I would roll those grooves into it for strength. That is a big "if" since I would use .125. I would use T6061 for the quality, but I would anneal it and flash cool it so that it stayed soft and flexed to avoid cracking. By cooling it with water, the molecules remain spread out and the aluminum stays soft and flexible.

I would weld it with 4043 filler rod since it is more flexible too. Besides 5356 is more for hiding the weld under anodizing. It doesn't show through like 4043.

ALL T-6061 will crack when bent, even if it is annealed. I would also weld all the way around it and then pour water on it to cool it fast so the entire unit is a bit softer and more flexible. Please note that I would do this prior to assembly so that the internal parts were not affected by the heat.

I would say this is my two cents but damn, after reading the entire thread and doing my best to not leave anything out, it is more like my 20 bucks worth.
 

Hmbre97

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I like how people outside of warranty not only have to go through the trouble of R&R'ing the blower but have to pick up the tab for shipping to his shop even though this has been determined to be a design issue.
 

CobraBob

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Bill, great comments on the science of welding. Hopefully your points will be helpful. Just curious how you heard about this thread since you just became an SVTP member last night.
 

ArgonWelding

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How I found this

I am a member of two welding forums and someone from here posted on the Hobart one.

[ame=http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/showthread.php?t=36981]Weld Talk Message Board and Online Forum - Hobart Welders[/ame]

I saw that there were limited replies to it and thought, hell they must have saved their comments for this forum. After spending all that time reading and looking for the solutions I could stand by and finding none, I felt obligated to throw myself into the fray.

On the linked website, if you want to write ASS you have to put A$$ or it is censored. You gentlemen seem to have a bit more of a liberal stance where curse words are concerned. I swear, but I also stand by the rule "he who swears first in and argument automatically looses".

I am open to welding on anyone's ride 7 days a week. Shipping is on the customer. Walk ins are encouraged.
 

CobraBob

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Ah, I see. Thanks for the reply Bill. I was just curious. And thanks again for your info post. Very helpful IMO. Nice to have a "pro" comment on the welding questions.
 

JMD0346

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OK, here are some facts.

1 have read all 263 responses to this thread.

2 I am a welder of 20 yrs and own my own small fab shop here in Albuquerque, NM.

3 My reputation speaks for itself and before you try and tell me I am wrong you better call someone in ABQ and ask where you can get this done right and done now. Dollar to a donut says they send you to me. I will not say my shit doesn't stink, but they do take my shit out to the missile range and blow it up to better protect all of us.

The first pic does look a bit hairy. If I was putting something that thin into something that turbulent, I would roll those grooves into it for strength. That is a big "if" since I would use .125. I would use T6061 for the quality, but I would anneal it and flash cool it so that it stayed soft and flexed to avoid cracking. By cooling it with water, the molecules remain spread out and the aluminum stays soft and flexible.

I would weld it with 4043 filler rod since it is more flexible too. Besides 5356 is more for hiding the weld under anodizing. It doesn't show through like 4043.

ALL T-6061 will crack when bent, even if it is annealed. I would also weld all the way around it and then pour water on it to cool it fast so the entire unit is a bit softer and more flexible. Please note that I would do this prior to assembly so that the internal parts were not affected by the heat.

I would say this is my two cents but damn, after reading the entire thread and doing my best to not leave anything out, it is more like my 20 bucks worth.




+1. Ive said some of the same things. It seems to fall on deaf ears somtimes. I disagree that all 6061 will crack when bent. Ive bent 1/8th- 3/8th 6061 flatbar may times making connection clips for aluminum ladders. It takes some heat, patience, and a steady hand but it can be done. You cant go too fast or in fact it will crack. Too slow and you get too much heat and it cracks. There is a fine line but it can be one. Like I said ive done it hundreds of times.



I own a small fab shop as well. Ive been doing this for almost 18 years so Ive got a pretty good grasp on metak work. Im a second generation fabricator. Its in my blood.


Bill I do mostly commercial miscellaneous steel fab. Stairs, Handrails, cage/parapet ladders, small trusses, gates, light structural and much more.

What do you specialize in? Its good to talk to a fellow fabber. Not many good ones around anymore.
 
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dynobobstieg

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Review latest plate design. ZERO failures. We have already stated we take care of our customers.
I can correct you both on a few of your comments however, this is not the site to do so.
I will state no one works harder than I do on improving ideas that work.




Robert Stiegemeier
StiegeSplash
636-949-2275
 
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spincobra03

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Bob, please do tell?? Im sure the guys with 40 years combined experience fabbing metal would like to know what they are incorrect on.
 

ArgonWelding

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valle con dios

I don't car what happens with this stage 5 stuff either way. You guys can argue on this subject 'til you're blue in the face. I do not have a bone to pick with anyone here. I put in the time to read 263 freakin' responses on this and am more than qualified to respond as to the welding.

I think Stiegemeier is handling this just fine. I also think if I put my name on it, it would be different. I neither desire nor require his or anyone else's approval of my opinion or care what they think of it. I am paid well for my skills by private individuals, businesses, and the federal government. If anyone cares, I wld aluminum more than anything else.
 

IronTerp

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Review latest plate design. ZERO failures. We have already stated we take care of our customers.
I can correct you both on a few of your comments however, this is not the site to do so.
I will state no one works harder than I do on improving ideas that work.

Robert Stiegemeier
Bob, I disagree. This is exactly the site for you to share your comments on the specifics of your latest torque plate design. Many current and possibly future Stage V owners are members of this site and there's a good bunch of them that are confused as to what direction to go in. The purpose of this thread was to technically discuss the problems with the torque plate design which would hopefully lead to corrective measures. Your detailed input on these corrective measures would be very helpful to current and future Steigemeieir customers as they make their decisions on how to proceed from here.
 

JMD0346

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I don't car what happens with this stage 5 stuff either way. You guys can argue on this subject 'til you're blue in the face. I do not have a bone to pick with anyone here. I put in the time to read 263 freakin' responses on this and am more than qualified to respond as to the welding.

I think Stiegemeier is handling this just fine. I also think if I put my name on it, it would be different. I neither desire nor require his or anyone else's approval of my opinion or care what they think of it. I am paid well for my skills by private individuals, businesses, and the federal government. If anyone cares, I wld aluminum more than anything else.


Nevermind.

Edit: I would like to be corrected by Steigemeier. Im not getting into an arguement about it but Id love to hear how Im wrong. Ive been a loyal, rule abbiding member here for a long time and if anyone questions me I think I deserve an explanation. Im really getting disheartened about this situation and its handling of it. As always if my opinion offends or hurts anyones feelings I do apologize.
 
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black 10th vert

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Bob, I disagree. This is exactly the site for you to share your comments on the specifics of your latest torque plate design. Many current and possibly future Stage V owners are members of this site and there's a good bunch of them that are confused as to what direction to go in. The purpose of this thread was to technically discuss the problems with the torque plate design which would hopefully lead to corrective measures. Your detailed input on these corrective measures would be very helpful to current and future Steigemeieir customers as they make their decisions on how to proceed from here.

Totally agree! Bob, please elaborate on what those fabricators got wrong! We ARE THE RIGHT SITE to discuss this, because WE ARE YOUR MAIN CUSTOMER BASE (as far as I know, anyway). These guys are trying to help fix this problem, and you say they are wrong - so what is the right answer?!:??:
 

CobraBob

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I have to agree with Dwight. This is an important thread IMO and judging by the number of reads it is a thread of high interest to current and future blower porting customers. I think Bob's comments would not only be appropriate, but very helpful to all. And the information here should also be very helpful to Bob. Good stuff JMO.

I, for one, would like to thank Bill and others experienced with welding for taking the time to try to help. You could have just walked on by this thread and not gotten involved. But you care about the folks here and chose to pass along your expert advise for the SVTP members and for Bob S. I think that you deserve a sincere "thanks" for that. :beer:
 

dynobobstieg

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I could give out all of my information that I have learned throughout the years with my hard work and R&D combined, I will not give out my trade secrets and to be honest the 2 or 3 of you that are so concerned have no reason to be.
I feel as though it is a lose lose situation for me.
Sorry that some of you disagree and I am not trying to be disrespectful to any of you.
We are taking care of our customers that is the bottom line. (which is much more than most speed shops will do).
I have been welding for well over 20 years.
Thank you
Stiegemeier
636-949-2275
StiegeSplash
 

spincobra03

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I could give out all of my information that I have learned throughout the years with my hard work and R&D combined, I will not give out my trade secrets and to be honest the 2 or 3 of you that are so concerned have no reason to be.
I feel as though it is a lose lose situation for me.
Sorry that some of you disagree and I am not trying to be disrespectful to any of you.
We are taking care of our customers that is the bottom line. (which is much more than most speed shops will do).
I have been welding for well over 20 years.
Thank you
Stiegemeier
636-949-2275
StiegeSplash

OMG... wow....:shrug: Im not sure bob understands what people are asking. We arent looking for the holy grail! We as consumers are trying to understand why and how it happend and to be assured that we as consumers dont send a blower in for work, only to have it fail again. I guess people just want to get your thoughts as to why these experienced welders are incorrect with their opinions. Clearly I dont think anyone is looking to steal your porting secrets. And no offense but I dont think its up to you to decide who should be concerned or not. Any pre, post, and future customers have every reason to be.
 
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