Steeda K Member or MM Panhard Bar

tbone7467

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Im Looking at upgrading my Cobra control arms to the 2004 ford racing set I found. At the same time I'm going to replace as much of my suspension bushings as I can. Im thinking energy suspension or prothane, Not sure which. I figured i can either change the K Member to the steeda unit
Part Number: 555 5078
MPN: 555-5078

or get the MM Panhard bar. Im not sure the pros and cons of the K member aside from weight savings. The Panhard would stiffen up the rear of the car aside of that im not sure.

any experience with an upgrade like this or opinions are appreciated.
 

Deceptive

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Steeda K Member, take some weight off, allows for some suspension geometry changes, makes service easier, looks better.


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tbone7467

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Yeah I understand they are on opposite ends of the spectrum. I am at a point I should consider the K member because I'm going to do a bit of suspension work with the new Control arms and bushings. If I cant justify it or get it before sale is over the pan hard bar is my fail over. It would save me some coin.
 

2DXTRM

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Whats done suspension wise already?
Frame connectors?

Up front :
Do the 03 Cobra A-arms (if they are brand new, leave them as is. If they are used, change the bushings to urethane , keep the bushing shells in place and replace the rubber only(prothane), and replace the balljoints)
Replace the Steering Rack Bushings (Prothane)
Upgrade the steering shaft (Borgeson)

In the rear:
New OEM upper control arms
Lower control arms (whatever brand, dont buy cheap)
Panhard Bar or Watts Link (ie. Fays 2)

Will make a nice driving car after.
 

scottydsntknow

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There are always the BMR A arms too, bushings and new balljoints already installed, has a spring perch, fits like stock. They aren't exactly cheap tho.

You dead set on the Steeda K? There is always the UPR with perches which is a lot lighter and a ton of ppl use them on the street with good results.

I just went IRS in the back... Don't be like me and think the stock tie rods will be good enough if you go that route lol.

Whats done suspension wise already?
Frame connectors?

Up front :
Do the 03 Cobra A-arms (if they are brand new, leave them as is. If they are used, change the bushings to urethane , keep the bushing shells in place and replace the rubber only(prothane), and replace the balljoints)
Replace the Steering Rack Bushings (Prothane)
Upgrade the steering shaft (Borgeson)

In the rear:
New OEM upper control arms
Lower control arms (whatever brand, dont buy cheap)
Panhard Bar or Watts Link (ie. Fays 2)

Will make a nice driving car after.

Is there a tool to get the rubber bushings out of the shells without boogering everything up or you just torch the shit out of them? Been thinking of doing this myself vs spending the money for the BMR arms.
 

tbone7467

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Whats done suspension wise already?
Frame connectors?

Up front :
Do the 03 Cobra A-arms (if they are brand new, leave them as is. If they are used, change the bushings to urethane , keep the bushing shells in place and replace the rubber only(prothane), and replace the balljoints)
Replace the Steering Rack Bushings (Prothane)
Upgrade the steering shaft (Borgeson)

In the rear:
New OEM upper control arms
Lower control arms (whatever brand, dont buy cheap)
Panhard Bar or Watts Link (ie. Fays 2)

Will make a nice driving car after.

Yes I have Sub frame connectors. Me and my dad fab'd some up to work around my side exhaust. The 2003 Control arms look to be brand new, Still in original ford racing box. I purchased the Steeda x2 and bumpster before I found these as I thought id be rebuilding a used set. as for bushings I'm going with Prothane. I didn't want solid or anything harder than Prothane to keep drivability. even those ive gone back and forth with as I heard energy suspension is a tad softer. The read upper control arms do I stay with 1997 or swap those out for the 2003 also?
 

shurur

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ok..out of the two you listed ..panhard bar.
Then stifflers or global west frame connectors...which should be the first mod.

There is nothing actually wrong with the OEM kmember or a-arms.
a-arms can be made better with delrin offset (caster) bushings... (and steeda x2 ball joints should you be lowered).

The kmember can be added later..much later.

The terminator control arms are much ado about nothing IMO.
There are no front upper control arms on the ford mustang up until (2005?).
There is a Mcpherson strut..control plates (CC plates) are part of that mod..
 
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2DXTRM

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Is there a tool to get the rubber bushings out of the shells without boogering everything up or you just torch the shit out of them? Been thinking of doing this myself vs spending the money for the BMR arms.

IM sure you can make one, but they are in there pretty good.

Burn them out.
OR drill around through the rubber.

Then clean up the insides of the shells.
 

2DXTRM

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Yes I have Sub frame connectors. Me and my dad fab'd some up to work around my side exhaust. The 2003 Control arms look to be brand new, Still in original ford racing box. I purchased the Steeda x2 and bumpster before I found these as I thought id be rebuilding a used set. as for bushings I'm going with Prothane. I didn't want solid or anything harder than Prothane to keep drivability. even those ive gone back and forth with as I heard energy suspension is a tad softer. The read upper control arms do I stay with 1997 or swap those out for the 2003 also?

If the arms are still brand new, then leave the bushings they come with for now. No point in destroying perfectly good bushings.

Check the bushings in your rear upper control arms. If they need to be replaced get a set of low mileage take off units from the 99-04 cars.
Also check the bushings on the axle side too. If they are worn, go with the Ford replacements.
 

scottydsntknow

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IM sure you can make one, but they are in there pretty good.

Burn them out.
OR drill around through the rubber.

Then clean up the insides of the shells.
Hmm maybe just get some rebuilt ones with new rubber and regular style bushings for now. New tie rods, call it good.... Cheap and easy. Do K and go ham on the a arms if/when its longtube time?

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tbone7467

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well never got the pan hard bar installed my mechanic said he didn't feel comfortable installing it. My car has been in the show since may. Ive dropped 5000 into it just this year. between rear end and this and that upgrades and check engine lights, I had enough and found me a 2009 GT500. Looks like ill be selling the 97 which will be rough.
 

PhoenixM3

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Well those are 2 totally different upgrades.
Me, I'd go with the PHB first.
And it’s easier do too. The panhard helps keeps your rear axles centered. If the car launches straight and true without the rear end stepping out to left or right, then consider working on the front suspension first. An adjustable panhard bar was a must for the 13/14 GT500s. I believe my car’s rear axle was about 1/4” out of whack to the driver’s side.
 

scottydsntknow

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Well the price of the Steeda is now batshit crazy. The MM piece is $700, the Steeda is like $1100... And the only advantage is you can run coil spring a arms... If you are going to serious road race then you are gonna get the mm piece regardless. If you are drag racing then you can get the upr k, a arms, cc plates, bumpsteer, coilovers and hardware for less shipped than the Steeda before shipping. If you are keeping the stock coil spring setup you might as well just keep the stock k...

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