Starting Issues - Please Help! I'm stumped

Jad G

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OK my cobra had what I believe was the original 130,000 mile starter on it, and when I went to lunch the other day, it started up fine and i got to get lunch and got back fine, but when I went to leave work 4 hours later, I go to turn the ignition and CLICK.

No spinning noises, no nothing. Just the fuel pump then a single click. So I'm thinking, that was sudden, is my battery dead? I went inside work to grab a multimeter, switch it to voltage and put it across the battery, 12.82V. That should be enough to at least attempt to crank.

My 6 month old Motorcraft battery is located in the trunk with a ground welded to the frame and a 2/0 Welding cable ran to the distro block. It ran like this fine for 6 months without issues. The single click leads me to believe the solenoid is clicking, but the starter isn't spinning at all. Taking into account the mileage on the starter and the fact that I have long tubes now (starter and solenoid were wrapped with heat wrap), I figured it gave up the ghost and that the click was a good sign that if the solenoid is attempting to work that there is no connectivity issues with the engage circuit, but perhaps there is an issue on the power circuit connectivity somewhere between the distro block and the starter.

Anyhow I push start the car and it fires right up like nothing was wrong, go to NAPA, purchase a reman starter for 139 plus 50 dollar core charge, Pull out the old one, re wrap the new one with heat wrap and bolt it up, wire it up, drop the car, go to reconnect the battery, and finally I attempt to start it. CLICK. Great, the same exact symptoms. The lights don't dim inside at all to make me think the battery is too low so I connect the battery to a charger to let it sit for a bit before I try again.

After 5-10 minutes I attempt again, CLICK. I went to check the fuses under the dash and the only blown one is number 1, for the cigar lighter circuit. Under the hood all the fuses look good but I have no way of checking the starter relay to see if its bad or not so I just swapped it with the one next to it to see if that makes a difference. Nothing. Apparently there's only the one fuse under the dash, #6 for the starter motor, and a relay under the hood in the fuse-box. I cant figure out what it is.

Could I have received a dud starter from NAPA? It said re-manufactured but it included a test datasheet shat indicates it passed so I don't know what to think but I'm about to pull it off and take it to get tested and check all my wiring for continuity to try to figure it out. I checked my neutral safety switch and fuel cutoff switch, both were in fine working order. The sudden issue with starting is what perplexes me, but I could just have gotten a dud from NAPA. Please, anyone with advice for what to look at, please help! This car is my daily and it went from reliable to not running in no time. My birthday was yesterday and this wasn't how I intended to spend it

Thanks:rockon:
 

SLPRCTM

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Test for voltage from chassis ground to each of your positive cable connections while someone else tries to turn over the starter. Where ever you see a big drop in voltage would be the location of the short. If you get full voltage at the starter both main cables and trigger, then you have a bad starter. If you see a huge drop at the battery terminals then you have a dead battery.
 

Comp281

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Edit ^^^ the above is a great idea. I'll leave mine here as well in case you want to try it the old fashioned way.

I'd try touching a jumper on the hot connection on the starter and see if it cranks. That way you bypass everything else to see if it works, if it does crank, backtrack to find the faulty connection. It's a bit odd to me that you are getting the same result with two starters. Yes there is a chance that the rebuilt one you received is bad, but the odds are better that there is something else wrong.
 
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Jimmysidecarr

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I really like the above two recommendations and would like to add that if you are running multiple relays for your trunk mount battery, make sure the added relay is still good.

I ran my trunk mount cable full time live inside a heater hose, with just a big amp fuse.
 

Jad G

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Jimmy, I just have a big 2/0 welding cable straight off the positive terminal in the trunk, under the carpet thru the firewall directly to the distribution block, no fuses or nothing, and the battery is grounded to the frame by the passenger rear wheel; I just cut an exhaust stud in half and welded it to the frame rail and the ground didnt provide any issues up to this point. Both connections seemed fine going to lunch that day but all of a sudden nada, which is why I thought it may be a fuse or the relay, but i couldnt find any popped ones. I figured if a fuse or relay was out that the solenoid wouldnt make the single click so I ruled that out but checked all the fuses anyway.

I dont know if the relay is bad but i switched it with another one and no change so I ruled that out. I will try jumping the starter directly under the car and see if the starter spins, that will at least save me the trouble of taking out the starter to test it at napa. I know the trigger and power connections are both tight as hell so I'll have to check everything for continuity.

The lead for the starter from the distribution block is factory and unchanged. Perhaps putting my battery back up front on the passenger side would help voltage drop since I can run the lead directly from the positive side back to the starter and use the lead from the starter to the distro block to power the rest of the car, and I'll be able to ground the battery on the block again. Just hate putting weight back up front if the setup was working before

My car always took several cranks to start, and when eric brooks was tuning it noticed that and thought my starter was going out. I thought it was due to removing the PPRV, so I put a summit checkvalve in my -10 line to the rail, but that didnt help at all, so that all could have been just from a weak starter since it was original and 130k miles on it. I thought that was due to cold starts on ethanol, however it does the same after a hot restart after driving which seems to rule that out as the car should be warmed up and in closed loop.
 

*Jay*

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Are you certain that your positive line from your trunk-mount has good connections on each side and no breaks or degradation in between???

If there is a loose, corroded connection, or a partial break in the positive line it will check fine with a voltmeter but not be able to flow enough amps to kick the starter over. I would recommend you try disconnecting the battery and bring it up front with a different set of power/ground lines temporarily to see if it changes anything.

If nothing changes there than check the line going from the distro-block to the starter, try wiggling it in sections and see if there are any breaks. If that gets the car to start then there is a break in that line and it is the culprit that needs to be replaced.
 
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10sec89

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Above suggestions are great but I must ad, PLEASE put a fuse on the main battery positive you have running the length of the car I would hate to see something happen and it get grounded and explode the battery or burn the car to the ground.
 

10sec89

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500+ amp. Any car stereo shop will easily be able to hook you up with the fuse and holder. Cheap insurance.
 

hotcobra03

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what type of battery terminals are you using?

i had gotten the black/red painted terminals..i had to take paint off where cable goes..

i too had the click...

the replacement starter could be bad,,even new,,i had got mine at pep boys with lifetime warrenty...
my stocker lasted 195k..rebuilts i have changed 3 times in 125k.


when i had mine tested it was good for 3-5 cranks than it would quit..

if your getting power to solenoid on blue/red wire relay is working..how far is the ground from motor with battery in trunk
 
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