Squeak after BMR Panhard Bar install

[NoSlowGT]

Lowered the car with FRPP L Springs. A week later I installed the BMR adjustable panhard bar with brace and now everytime I accelerate or even switch gears and accelerate I hear a loud squeak. It's really annoying and I'm not sure what to do. We greased the hell out of it when installing. Wondering if anyone else has had this happen. Btw it's coming from the rear passenger side, which is also the side where the adjustable part of the panhard bar is.

 

[TEG-84]

Hmm, maybe a preload issue?

 

[Red-GT500]

Hmm, maybe a preload issue?

Sounds like it.

OP did you torque the PHB with the car on the ground or was the rear axle hanging down. Often times when you do torque the bolts with the suspension unloaded it causes binding in the joint. If thats not the issue then it may simply need more grease on the outer mating surface and the bushing is just squeaky because its dry.

 

[mlpascual]

No squeaks

What was your front dimensions after lowering did you use camber plates? I did the same thing last weekend with no camber plates on a 2012 and it didn't look like it lowered the front any with the L spring I am measuring 26 in from the ground to the top of the wheel opening. I did't take a before measurement :bash:. I also installed the BMR panhard bar I did torque the bolts with the suspension loaded no squeaks.

 

[fullboogie]

The preload issue is a myth. The bar is designed to rotate around its bolt-in points, so it doesn't matter where the rearend was when it was bolted in. It's most likely a matter of the OP using parts shelf bearing grease rather than suspension grease such as that made by Chassis Engineering and others.

 

[barspen]

I had some rear squeaking and popping noises after installing a BMR Panhard Bar and LCAs. Couple things that might help:

- Use some blue Loctite on the PHB to keep the adjustment bolts for spinning loose. Mine spun loose a couple times.
- Make sure you use lots of Energy Suspenion grease when installing. I bought extra and used a generous amount.
- When greasing through the zerk fitting, make sure you loosen the bolts first. You should see grease ooze out of the holes. Then re-torque everything.

I was originally greasing without loosing the bolts which only added pressure and limited the amount of grease flowing. Once I used the loosen\grease\torque method, most (if not all) my noises went away.

Good luck!

 

[Catmonkey]

The preload issue is a myth.

With respect to aftermarket spherical and poly bearings that is true. But just to qualify that statement somewhat, it's not true of rubber bushings that come on factory components. So when you're changing an upper control arm out that still uses the factory rubber bushing on the differential, the car should be at ride height before torquing the bolt for the rubber bushing. I usually tighten the poly bushed end to the bracket before installing.

 

[NoSlowGT]

I had some rear squeaking and popping noises after installing a BMR Panhard Bar and LCAs. Couple things that might help:

- Use some blue Loctite on the PHB to keep the adjustment bolts for spinning loose. Mine spun loose a couple times.
- Make sure you use lots of Energy Suspenion grease when installing. I bought extra and used a generous amount.
- When greasing through the zerk fitting, make sure you loosen the bolts first. You should see grease ooze out of the holes. Then re-torque everything.

I was originally greasing without loosing the bolts which only added pressure and limited the amount of grease flowing. Once I used the loosen\grease\torque method, most (if not all) my noises went away.

Good luck!

Thanks for the info. I'll try this and report back. Unfortunately I don't have another day off til Wednesday.

 

[fullboogie]

With respect to aftermarket spherical and poly bearings that is true. But just to qualify that statement somewhat, it's not true of rubber bushings that come on factory components. So when you're changing an upper control arm out that still uses the factory rubber bushing on the differential, the car should be at ride height before torquing the bolt for the rubber bushing. I usually tighten the poly bushed end to the bracket before installing.

I agree, but that's not what we're talking about :beer:

 

[Robert M]

Lowered the car with FRPP L Springs. A week later I installed the BMR adjustable panhard bar with brace and now everytime I accelerate or even switch gears and accelerate I hear a loud squeak. It's really annoying and I'm not sure what to do. We greased the hell out of it when installing. Wondering if anyone else has had this happen. Btw it's coming from the rear passenger side, which is also the side where the adjustable part of the panhard bar is.

I will also add.............yes make sure that the correct grease is used, not the petroleum based grease that is for ball joints, wheel bearings etc.

Is there a reason why you put the adjuster at the passenger/body side which is usually higher up in the car instead of the drivers side (axle end) which is usually easier to get to for adjustment purposes?




R

 

[BMR Tech]

There is some GREAT info in this thread. It is awesome to see people chime in on posts like these, helping a fellow hobbyist.

As fullboogie, and Catmokey said - it is true, you do not need to TQ floating sleeve design bushings at ride-height / loaded. We DO recommend it usually, simply to cover all of the bases....like mentioned with the UCA, etc. All bonded rubber OEM stuff definitely needs to be TQ'd to spec with the suspension loaded.

OP, occasionally these things happen. There is some very good info in here, and I think it should help you get through this issue quite quickly and easily. This is also a GREAT example of why we try to utilize grease fittings on all of our components which feature poly bushings, I cant tell you how many people call me and ditch their non-fitting parts with ours, due to this very same complaint.

If you cannot get through this, please just call me and we will get it all squared away for you. As Robert said, please ensure you use a quality lubrication for those poly bushings, it is important.

 

[Robert M]

There is some GREAT info in this thread. It is awesome to see people chime in on posts like these, helping a fellow hobbyist.

As fullboogie, and Catmokey said - it is true, you do not need to TQ floating sleeve design bushings at ride-height / loaded. We DO recommend it usually, simply to cover all of the bases....like mentioned with the UCA, etc. All bonded rubber OEM stuff definitely needs to be TQ'd to spec with the suspension loaded.

OP, occasionally these things happen. There is some very good info in here, and I think it should help you get through this issue quite quickly and easily. This is also a GREAT example of why we try to utilize grease fittings on all of our components which feature poly bushings, I cant tell you how many people call me and ditch their non-fitting parts with ours, due to this very same complaint.

If you cannot get through this, please just call me and we will get it all squared away for you. As Robert said, please ensure you use a quality lubrication for those poly bushings, it is important.

Kelly - Is there a lubricant for the heim joint ends?



R

 

[BMR Tech]

Kelly - Is there a lubricant for the heim joints ends?

R

EXCELLENT question Robert. I can always count on you to deliver. :rockon:

To answer, I have (3) favorites, when it comes to lubricating Poly and Bearings.

In no particular order:

Super Lube (Poly)

Silicone Lubricating Grease with Syncolon® (PTFE)

2010 - 2014 Chevy Camaro | Grease | SUL41150 - Superlube 14 Oz. Grease Cartridge | BMR Suspension - The Leader in High Performance Suspension & Chassis

Amsoil Polymeric EP Grease (Poly)

AMSOIL Synthetic Polymeric Truck, Chassis and Equipment Grease, NLGI #2

(This is proving to be one of the most longest lasting, and noise free lubrication I have tested so far)

Amsoil MPHD (Bearing)

This stuff is awesome. It is a dry like wax, which protects and lubricates. It is basically motorcycle chain lube/protectant.

AMSOIL Heavy-Duty Metal Protector

 

[Robert M]

EXCELLENT question Robert. I can always count on you to deliver. :rockon:

To answer, I have (3) favorites, when it comes to lubricating Poly and Bearings.

In no particular order:

Super Lube (Poly)

Silicone Lubricating Grease with Syncolon® (PTFE)

2010 - 2014 Chevy Camaro | Grease | SUL41150 - Superlube 14 Oz. Grease Cartridge | BMR Suspension - The Leader in High Performance Suspension & Chassis

Amsoil Polymeric EP Grease (Poly)

AMSOIL Synthetic Polymeric Truck, Chassis and Equipment Grease, NLGI #2

(This is proving to be one of the most longest lasting, and noise free lubrication I have tested so far)

Amsoil MPHD (Bearing)

This stuff is awesome. It is a dry like wax, which protects and lubricates. It is basically motorcycle chain lube/protectant.

AMSOIL Heavy-Duty Metal Protector

^^^Thanks Kelly.

BTW - You may be interested in this Team Shelby BMR discussion.............

Has Anyone Else Installed The 2011-Up Uca On Their 2007-2010? - Shelby GT500 Modifications and Tech. - Team Shelby

The BMR UCA's and LCA Relo's are discussed with full pictures.......

---------------------------------------

Also this thread from the GT500 Cobra Forum also, your products.........and pictures.

http://www.fordgt500.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52329


I need to start from the LCA install to the UCA upgrade/install and then the LCA Relo. install with full pictures, all in one thread.



R

 

[fullboogie]

Let me put it this way - I've been running the exact same set of LCA's and PHB for five years, and I've never had to re-grease them after using the correct grease. When I pulled them off my GT and installed them on my GT500 two years ago, I cleaned them and re-greased them and they've been fine. And if your bushings ever do get ugly, Kelly is great about hunting stuff down and getting it out to you quickly.

 

[Catmonkey]

I thought of something else to check. Whenever I've removed the panhard rod, I've had to loosen the panhard brace bolt. I'd make sure that bolt is torqued back to spec too.

 

[barspen]

i thought of something else to check. Whenever i've removed the panhard rod, i've had to loosen the panhard brace bolt. I'd make sure that bolt is torqued back to spec too.

+1

 

[NoSlowGT]

Thanks a ton everyone. I'll definitely go pick up some suspension grease and regrease it as soon as I can.

 

[DaFreak]

I'd bet it's the new spring(s) causing the issue. I'd look at them thoroughly and post up pics if you can.

Added: Be sure to check how the spring was placed on the rubber pad that sits on the perch of the axle (maybe there isn't one??). The rubber pad gets "worn" a certain way with use and if the end of the spring is not matched up to the wear marks then a squeak might happen.

 

[Nsssane1]

Man I used whatever was in my grease gun, and it was the cheapest stuff I could find at the parts store, I have no problems, and I've done a couple of cars!! And I never torqued any of it to spec, however hard the bolt was to get off I put it back in that spot, my complete rear was done this way. No problems, and again I've done several cars.