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The Terminator
Driveline
SPEC Stage 2 Clutch issues
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<blockquote data-quote="wckdvnm" data-source="post: 16621105" data-attributes="member: 174183"><p>See there’s a thing called state ref in Commifornia that i don’t want to deal with at the moment...</p><p>I installed mine; along with new fork, bearing, and ford cable. I’ve done enough of them on my car as I hate shit clutches and wanted my own experience as clutches are heavily subjective. Kevlar clutches do not like traffic; I DD’d mine and it began slipping in traffic. Heat is not a kevlar clutches friend and when they glaze that’s it they are trash and cannot be remedied like traditional material clutches. Mine gave way with zero warning; it’s drivable but slips when driven for any longer than just around my block. </p><p>So it may be good for you now but it will give way with zero warning which is common with all kevlar disc clutches. Mine was great like you said till around 8k miles then it began to get “worse” till I tried to pass someone after being in traffic on a 115+ degree day and it slipped so bad I could smell the disc.</p><p>Now I’ve learned my lesson on choosing disc material for the usage of the vehicle; thats why I’m going to go center-force DYAD or their LMC series.</p><p></p><p>Edit: I’ll also add the clutch is completely worn as the fork and the fingers are completely extended. Again I drove my car everyday not just on nice days; heat over 110+ and as low as the socal area gets in winter. I may have very well gone more than 10k miles but it wouldn’t have exceeded 13-14k miles as i put it in at around 132k and as the car sits now its at 144,035.</p><p>I have a stage 2 not a 2+ as they are vastly different material; 2+ is carbon-kevlar and a 2 is kevlar only. They require different driving styles as kevlar glazes easier than the carbon kevlar.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="wckdvnm, post: 16621105, member: 174183"] See there’s a thing called state ref in Commifornia that i don’t want to deal with at the moment... I installed mine; along with new fork, bearing, and ford cable. I’ve done enough of them on my car as I hate shit clutches and wanted my own experience as clutches are heavily subjective. Kevlar clutches do not like traffic; I DD’d mine and it began slipping in traffic. Heat is not a kevlar clutches friend and when they glaze that’s it they are trash and cannot be remedied like traditional material clutches. Mine gave way with zero warning; it’s drivable but slips when driven for any longer than just around my block. So it may be good for you now but it will give way with zero warning which is common with all kevlar disc clutches. Mine was great like you said till around 8k miles then it began to get “worse” till I tried to pass someone after being in traffic on a 115+ degree day and it slipped so bad I could smell the disc. Now I’ve learned my lesson on choosing disc material for the usage of the vehicle; thats why I’m going to go center-force DYAD or their LMC series. Edit: I’ll also add the clutch is completely worn as the fork and the fingers are completely extended. Again I drove my car everyday not just on nice days; heat over 110+ and as low as the socal area gets in winter. I may have very well gone more than 10k miles but it wouldn’t have exceeded 13-14k miles as i put it in at around 132k and as the car sits now its at 144,035. I have a stage 2 not a 2+ as they are vastly different material; 2+ is carbon-kevlar and a 2 is kevlar only. They require different driving styles as kevlar glazes easier than the carbon kevlar. [/QUOTE]
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SPEC Stage 2 Clutch issues
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