Spare tire well intercooler tanks - whose running them?

[Bud]

Hey all

After my last outing in the heat I'm toying with the idea of a big intercooler/ice tank in the spare tire well. I'm running a 2.9 whipple on a 3" pulley, not sure how much heat it is creating on inlets as I can't log the IAT2 but thinking it couldn't hurt, especially when I pulley it down further next year. I am running e85 which helps, but cooler readings at the IAT2 have to help as well for runs without much cool down time available.

Throwing around ideas for a setup for the track only that I can bolt in/out quickly for events then swap back to the stock setup for street duty. Will have to figure out a quick disconnect solution up front or better yet a diverter valve setup that would hopefully keep the stock front system intact without air for the easy swap over back to the street. Thinking for the track setup I would bypass the intercooler and stock reservoir.

Has anybody done something similar on these cars and if so any suggested box sizes and any pics/thoughts/ideas on plumbing up the front of the car?

 

[Aaron@JPCRacing]

We offer a inter cooler reservoir with a high flowing pump. They're made to order though.

Shoot me a PM if you want some pictures of it.

I have the same system in my 1997 GT. I drilled 2 holes in the spare tire well then ran the inter cooler lines along the fuel lines. At the track I dump ice in it and on the street I just run it with water with no issues. Cleaned up the engine bay quite a bit too with the reservoir missing too.

 

[Bud]

Right on, thanks, PM incoming.

My only concern with running the rear setup all the time is a pump failure since my car is still very much a daily driver. I could probably run a temp sensor and alarm though to keep an eye out for that. Would be nice to have more room up front for sure. I envision something like this so the rear carpet could still cover it with a hole cutout for the filler/cap:

 

[truebluedevil02]

I think it looks bitchin. Might as well make the other half of the hole a fuel cell

 

[86merc]

They do help by adding capacity to the system and really help when you run ice in it at the track.

The only real down sides are loosing the spare tire and the extra weight. Remember water is just over 8 lbs. per gallon. A large tank, lines, pump and so on can add some substantial weight.

I am not sure what pump your kit comes with. But I have had buddies who tried to use the 03/04 Cobra style intercooler pumps. They are not enough. It has been a while since I researched it but those pumps flow like 8gpm. Most guys are using pumps rated for 35gpm or more. The added mass of the fluid in the lines and head from restrictions was too much for those 03/03 Cobra pumps. You really need to upgrade to a higher rated pump to get the system to work correctly. On my 86 I actually removed the Afco 03/04 dual pass heat exchanger from the system. It increased the flow, as measured by amount into a bucket per minute, and lowered the AIT readings when driving around town and at the track. But I have a remote intercooler, not one sandwiched between the motor and the blower as it is a turbo car. But just goes to show that things are not always as you think they would be. I expected better flow removing the heat exchanger. But didn't really expect the AIT to go down. I guess the restriction with the heat exchanger reduced the efficiency of the system.

Also, the larger the line you can run the better. But packaging the system with big lines can be a challenge in these cramped cars. haha

If weight is not a factor I would say go for it. Just make sure you think the system through and do some research. So you are not buying wrong parts and end up having to re-do parts of the system.

 

[Bud]

The added weight is one of the reasons I'm curious on how big of a tank to run, if it is enough to stay cold one run I wouldn't mind draining/icing between runs. Most of the weight is on the right end of the car but it all still adds up like you said. I have the car down to 3720 with me in it (including the added weight of rollbar, 5pt, tranny blanket, blower, etc) so not doing too bad on weight, but hate adding more.

The extra weight may be a factor this year, but next year when I pulley it down it won't matter as much.

 

[alex12gt]

Id measure iat before spending the cash

 

[86merc]

That is my thinking as well. My car is over 3800 lbs. on the starting line. But with boost it is easy to make more power to overcome that weight. On the flip side I am not real comfortable that the car is that heavy and trapping around 150-155mph. haha

You can spend money to get light weight braided line, hoses and so on. Stuff gets real expensive real quick when you try and buy with weigh in mind. But at least you have options to limit the added weight if you wanted to.

There are formulas you can use to calculate flow, how much water you need to remove x amount of heat and so on. I think most people just error on the side of bigger is better. lol Maybe someone else can chime in with some experience of what is enough and what is too much depending on a typical set up like yours. My guess is 5-8 gallons or so should work well. Again, depends on your goals, flow of the system and so on. If you get a larger tank and decide you want to use less water you can always add fuel cell foam in the tank to help with sloshing.

Oh, I forgot to add earlier that even the tank design can make a difference. Most people use a simple one line out and single line dumping back in as a return. But some have had better gains in cooling by adding a tube across the front, inside of the tank. This tube has multiple holes in it. Like a sprinkler. So the water is returned all across the tank and ice instead of just in one spot. Like any thing else the more option the more cash you are looking to spend. What else is new. Right? haha

 

[Bud]

Id measure iat before spending the cash

I wish I knew a way to log them, you know how? I'm sure post injector my inlet temps are better due to the E85, but the blower and core motor temp is still hot on a 100 degree day, only so much a fan blowing hot air over the motor can do with just an hour cool down. I felt bad pushing the car last time like that.

That is my thinking as well. My car is over 3800 lbs. on the starting line. But with boost it is easy to make more power to overcome that weight. On the flip side I am not real comfortable that the car is that heavy and trapping around 150-155mph. haha

You can spend money to get light weight braided line, hoses and so on. Stuff gets real expensive real quick when you try and buy with weigh in mind. But at least you have options to limit the added weight if you wanted to.

There are formulas you can use to calculate flow, how much water you need to remove x amount of heat and so on. I think most people just error on the side of bigger is better. lol Maybe someone else can chime in with some experience of what is enough and what is too much depending on a typical set up like yours. My guess is 5-8 gallons or so should work well. Again, depends on your goals, flow of the system and so on. If you get a larger tank and decide you want to use less water you can always add fuel cell foam in the tank to help with sloshing.

Oh, I forgot to add earlier that even the tank design can make a difference. Most people use a simple one line out and single line dumping back in as a return. But some have had better gains in cooling by adding a tube across the front, inside of the tank. This tube has multiple holes in it. Like a sprinkler. So the water is returned all across the tank and ice instead of just in one spot. Like any thing else the more option the more cash you are looking to spend. What else is new. Right? haha

I was thinking about running a stick of hardline for the section under the car to save weight/money but then I'd have to worry about them sweating and dropping water on the track. Humidity isn't that bad here though and maybe a person could insulate them. If I ordered a tank from Dad's I would have them put one of their spray bars in the tank on the return so it mixes the hot return back into the tank decently. The one in the pic I linked looks nice but would probably do one without a flat back to better gather water by the pump/outlet on launch.

 

[r.barn]

Why not just put a Killer Chiller on it ? Thats what I am going to do. I am also looking at 12V DC mini-air conditioning system for it so I do not have to tap into the factory a/c system.

http://www.killerchiller.com/

http://www.sunpowertech.com/wp-content/uploads/Sun-Power-DC3600.pdf

 

[Bud]

Thought about the KC, but after the streak of 100 degree days here in CO this year I don't want to mess with the A/C at all, also to cool the intercooler temps down I'd have to run the car, which builds heat in the motor and kind of defeats the initial purpose.

 

[r.barn]

Thought about the KC, but after the streak of 100 degree days here in CO this year I don't want to mess with the A/C at all, also to cool the intercooler temps down I'd have to run the car, which builds heat in the motor and kind of defeats the initial purpose.

Watch my build thread then to see how my experiment with a 12V DC a/c system goes. I do not want to tap into my factory a/c either. Going to call SunPowerTech tomorrow and see how much their D3600 compressor unit cost. Runs on 12V DC and draws 20-30amps. Made for construction equipment cab cooling. It should not have to run constantly. If you could incorporate a temp sensor in the coolant and be able cycle the electric a/c on and off as needed it should work perfect and not overload the electrical system. Might have to upgrade the alternator is all.

 

[Bud]

Already been keeping an eye on it. Your car is going to be ridiculous. Looking forward to pics of the 10rib setup and how it goes with the A/C since most pics I find don't run it. If you don't mind pm'n me the price you got the 10rib and damper for that would be appreciated.

 

[truebluedevil02]

Thought about the KC, but after the streak of 100 degree days here in CO this year I don't want to mess with the A/C at all, also to cool the intercooler temps down I'd have to run the car, which builds heat in the motor and kind of defeats the initial purpose.

Bud, have you considered running a meth kit. That is what I'm looking at for the procharger. Boost your octane to a very safe level while also cooling IAT's down a good amount. This will help a ton when you add more boost next year. Also wont add much weight and would probably be cheaper.

 

[Bud]

I've thought about meth too, but have read horror stories about running it through the rotors on a PD blower being corrosive and all. Unfortunately no easy way to get it in post blower on my car, one of the many reasons why I've sometimes wished I would have gone big centri or turbo.

 

[BOSSPOWER]

Right on, thanks, PM incoming.

My only concern with running the rear setup all the time is a pump failure since my car is still very much a daily driver. I could probably run a temp sensor and alarm though to keep an eye out for that. Would be nice to have more room up front for sure. I envision something like this so the rear carpet could still cover it with a hole cutout for the filler/cap:

Who makes that tank?

Thanks,

Manuel