Some pro tips to get a WET paint look...& feel....

[lateralgs]

Here's a couple of things I learned from some pro's in the business...

Wax, polish, and cleaner are not the same...CLEANER is designed to do just that...it removes the junk from the microscratches in the clearcoat which dulls the finish (dirt, oxidation,etc) This step can require the most energy to apply if done by hand. It increases the shine, BUT offers no protection to the paint.

Polish gives a WET look, as well as replacing lost "nutrients" in the paint. It should be applied after CLEANING. Polish offers no paint protection at all, but the shine is amazing..esp on dark colors.

Wax or Sealant is the final step. This is what keeps the look that has just been created. It should be applied with minimal pressure if done by hand. The degree of protection does NOT depend on the amount used...so don't kill yourself applying a thick coat that will be only difficult to remove. Liquid or paste? It's a preference. One is usually not better than the other.

Sealant is synthetic while wax is made from Caranuba. The higher percentage of carnuba, the better shine and duration of protection....also the more it will cost. Some pure carnuba sells for $600 or more per jar....and it is rock hard. Petroleum is what makes it soft or liquid.

Try applying and removing cleaner and polish with an orbital buffer. They use a oscillaing motion that simulates the "wax on, wax off" motion. These cannot harm the surface, but they do a fantastic job with much less effort. They come in all sizes and weights. I own a 16lb with an 11" polishing surface. It's the best money you can spend on your car.

IMPORTANT--An orbital buffer is different from a disk polisher that uses only hi RPM to do its job. This can cause MAJOR damage to auto paint.

Finally, if you are looking for perfection and one extra step doesn't bother you, try using clay before you apply CLEANER. After a wash, spritz one section of the body at a time and lightly rub the clay on the paint, then wipe it with a cloth. The feeling on the surface cannot be put to words..it's smoother than glass.

Sorry about the heavy verbage, hope this helps make your rides B-utiful!

 

[EVLSVT]

How about if i washed my car using meguiars car wash...
Then clean that off, and use more soap from meguiars combined with the clay (use the meguiars car was soap as clay lubricant) to get rid of the stuff in the paint.
THen Use the Klasse all in one, after the car has been dried and washed with cold water (after the detailing clay)
then take that layer off, and use some of the Meguiars #28 yellow wax..
Then Use the special P15 or w/e (that expensive wax, which is all carnuba) That would be sick, and perfect car/paint care right?
But i would do it all by hand, i dont have a PC.

 

[lateralgs]

Just be super careful with the PC...orbital buffers are much safer and give great results. I have seen people burn right down to bare metal with PC and other high rpm polishers.

 

[spree]

Just be super careful with the PC...orbital buffers are much safer and give great results. I have seen people burn right down to bare metal with PC and other high rpm polishers.

the PC is not a high rpm buffer. It is a random orbital buffer.

 

[blowngt]

Just be super careful with the PC...orbital buffers are much safer and give great results. I have seen people burn right down to bare metal with PC and other high rpm polishers.

You would have to be a real tool to burn thru paint with the PC. Unless they were using sand or standing on the PC while buffing, it's virtually idiot proof!!!

Just goes to show why there has to be a disclaimer for just about everything!!! :burn:

 

[George Wax]

There are instances where a rotary buffer must be used to remove serious swirls and scratches on clear coat paint. A PC by it's very nature does not have the ability to remove serious scratches and swirl mark's..Furthermore, in the hands of a well trained detailer a rotary buffer is a safe tool to use on paint. However, a PC for the average Joe would be more than enough to maintain a vehicle in good condition. In my part time detailing business I use both Rotary, and PC for my customers car's..Knowing how to evaluate the paint condition is very important. Plus I was trained by Mike Pennington who is director of training at Meguiar's Inc..my ex-coworker..that's helps..

 

[Scott P]

The information stated here isn't totally wrong, but there are a few things I'd like to clarify/expand on/correct.

Here's a couple of things I learned from some pro's in the business...

Wax, polish, and cleaner are not the same...CLEANER is designed to do just that...it removes the junk from the microscratches in the clearcoat which dulls the finish (dirt, oxidation,etc) This step can require the most energy to apply if done by hand. It increases the shine, BUT offers no protection to the paint.

This is pretty much correct. Paint cleaners remove previous wax applications, oxidation, stains and other surface imperfections in or on the clearcoat. Favorite paint cleaners include Meguiar's Medallion Premium Paint Cleaner (now discontinued), Klasse All In One (AIO), Meguiar's Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner (Step 1) along with excellent paint cleaners from S100/P21S, Four Star Ultimate, Pinnacle, etc. It is a great first step.

Polish gives a WET look, as well as replacing lost "nutrients" in the paint. It should be applied after CLEANING. Polish offers no paint protection at all, but the shine is amazing..esp on dark colors.

Polish is the most universal term in detailing. It can mean products that are abrasive, chemical or even contain wax. In a pure sense, a polish is used to level the surface, remove swirls and make it ready for waxing. Glazes contains oils that some people believe "feed" paint. Personally, I think only older single stage paints need "feeding". For modern clearcoats, I use Poorboy's SSR1 or Pro Polish as my final polish before my final product applications.

Wax or Sealant is the final step. This is what keeps the look that has just been created. It should be applied with minimal pressure if done by hand. The degree of protection does NOT depend on the amount used...so don't kill yourself applying a thick coat that will be only difficult to remove. Liquid or paste? It's a preference. One is usually not better than the other.

This is true. Thin coats work best. Thicker coats are only wastes or product and time. But, there are a few different schools of thought in the sealant vs. liquid wax vs. paste wax debate. Paste waxes typically contain a lower amount of solvents than liquid waxes. The lower solvent level does tend to allow paste waxes to be layered to a small degree. I prefer paste waxes myself over liquid ones. However, I choose my final wax based on a number factors such as paint color or protection level over a liquid vs. paste issue.

Sealant is synthetic while wax is made from Caranuba. The higher percentage of carnuba, the better shine and duration of protection....also the more it will cost. Some pure carnuba sells for $600 or more per jar....and it is rock hard. Petroleum is what makes it soft or liquid.

Ok, there are a few major misconceptions here. Higher carnauba content does not really mean a better look or better protection. There are more expensive waxes such as Pinnacle Souveran ($60/jar) and Zymol Heritage and Vintage which can got into the thousands of dollars (really, I'm not making this up). Pure carnauba is rock hard and not able to be used on a car. Waxes are not only carnauba based, some are petroleum based and others often contain a blend of carnaubas and polymers.

Try applying and removing cleaner and polish with an orbital buffer. They use a oscillating motion that simulates the "wax on, wax off" motion. These cannot harm the surface, but they do a fantastic job with much less effort. They come in all sizes and weights. I own a 16lb with an 11" polishing surface. It's the best money you can spend on your car.

IMPORTANT--An orbital buffer is different from a disk polisher that uses only hi RPM to do its job. This can cause MAJOR damage to auto paint.

There are two main types orbital buffers on the market. You can get the el cheapo buffer for $25-$50 at Sears or an auto parts store. These buffers use bonnets and are pretty much only good for application of cleaner waxes. They don't generate enough speed or heat to really remove swirls.

The better option is the Porter Cable 7336SP or 7424. They are the same machine with the exception of the counterweight. The machines are interchangeable. There is a huge selection of foam and wool pads on the market for these buffers.

 

[93Snake]

I try'd burning the paint off on my beater with the PC, it wasn't happening

 

[blowngt]

I try'd burning the paint off on my beater with the PC, it wasn't happening

:lol:

I won't argue with anyone whether or not you can burn the paint, but I will say that if by chance you manage to burn the paint, you are doing something seriously wrong!!!!

 

[O4COBRA]

Sorry double post, check 1 post down! :cuss:

 

[O4COBRA]

There are instances where a rotary buffer must be used to remove serious swirls and scratches on clear coat paint. A PC by it's very nature does not have the ability to remove serious scratches and swirl mark's..

I find this statement to be very untrue in my case. The PC has the ability to remove swirls amd scratches. It may not take them out as fast as a rotarty, but with enough time and pateience you should be able to create a swirl free finish! Check out these pics of some work I have done, all done with a PC! :-D

This is how it looks now, all by PC!

 

[George Wax]

04Cobra...I did mean serious scratches and swirl mark's i.e. severe spider webbing, and deeper scratches. In our detailing clinic's at Meguiar's inc, we have tested the limit's of the PC i.e. M-83 and W-8006 and what you have posted i.e. your pic's (good job) are pretty much all a PC can do. Alot of the defect's people think have been removed with a PC to a certain extent are covered up by filler's. I do not doubt your experience with the PC and your result's, but I can assure you the PC does have it's limit as to how much of a defect it can remove. Plus, on a business point of view trying to spend all day removing severe water spotting, bird drop etching, maybe some color sanding in order to remove excessive orange peel just does not make any sense to use a PC. Therefore, the use of a rotary buffer becomes a natural selection.

 

[George Wax]

However, I also agree the PC is a wonderful tool just like automotive paint clay. But for hardcore detailing job's (really bad paint) the rotary shine's like no other tool I have used...

 

[Juiced-03]

However, I also agree the PC is a wonderful tool just like automotive paint clay. But for hardcore detailing job's (really bad paint) the rotary shine's like no other tool I have used...

I agree 110% (as a professional detailer myself). The PC is great for applying sealants, glazes, and fine polishes, but for heavy duty work and all around swirl removal the rotary is my number one tool. I dont have the time to sit around and wait for the PC to work. The rotary gets the work done quickly and effectively. I feel they both work together quite well: polish/swirl removal first with rotary, seal with PC, hand wax. I have seen some incredible work done with a PC by itself, but I cant even begin to imagine the time it took to achieve those results. Some people simply do not know how to use a rotary though, or are uncomfortable with its power. In this case, I would only recommend the PC :thumbsup:

 

[Blk03SVTCobra]

If you are an experienced detailer, I would suggest that using a high-speed rotary buffer is fine. However, if you're not very experienced, I would say that a dual-action random orbit buffer will work PERFECTLY.

High-speed rotary buffers can cause paint burns and actually create more scratches/swirling/etc if you DON'T know what you're doing. They are professional tools. At the same time, they can do AMAZING work in the hands of a professional. And there is most definitely a point at which the PC can do no more for the paint and it is time to use a high-speed rotary. If you take care of your paint properly though, you will probably never get to that point.

I myself will probably never need anything (knock on wood) other than my PC7424 (random orbit buffer). It really does an awesome job with 3M SMR. The first time I polish with it, I may not get it all out, but that's why I'll go over the area again. With a little patience and persistence, the PC can work wonders.

Hope this helps a bit :beer: