So sick of exhaust leaks

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Spoolx

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My xpipe will only not leak when I have it adjusted low, if I try to tuck it to the body it will leak at the ball flange on the drivers side..
Anyone have any good suggestions to keep this from happening and allowing me to tuck the pipe up tight, right now it scrapes on everything.

FWIW its a upr pipe.
 

NastyNate420

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My BBK xpipe would leak i took it off and cleaned the flange and add copper rtv. Havent had any issues since!
 

mustanginky

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that copper rtv does work pretty well. get it pretty cleaned up on the surfaces that touch with a wire brush attachment for a drill or whatever and put a good deal of copper rtv sealant and it will help.
 

Digital

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Tell me about it. Exhaust leaks for me are not only annoying but I lose power lol
 

jrgoffin

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Yes, the Ultra Copper works fantastic - I use it for every automotive RTV need, including exhaust. If you put some on the ball flange, just be sure to let the car idle and get hot for 30 or so minutes - otherwise it will seriously smoke on you as it sets while you are out driving!!

Too bad the only solid-fitting, leak-free mid-pipe is the OEM one...
 

Digital

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Yes, the Ultra Copper works fantastic - I use it for every automotive RTV need, including exhaust. If you put some on the ball flange, just be sure to let the car idle and get hot for 30 or so minutes - otherwise it will seriously smoke on you as it sets while you are out driving!!

Too bad the only solid-fitting, leak-free mid-pipe is the OEM one...

Good info. I always goop a ton of compound on to all the exhaust fittings before I assemble them. They are just compression fittings after all and in any other type of fitting like that you'd use some type of liquid sealant.
 

greengt88

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I'll agree with that^^ I have the 5pc. Bassani, I know about leaks let me tell you. If anyone knows of a good one please post us a link. I'm tired of my bassani setup. I have to run cats or else it sounds like crap, and I lose a lot of bottom end too. Anyone running the tail pipe inserts and no cats?? Wondering if that would allow me to get rid of the cats.
 

SWAMPMODULAR

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Mine did the same crap, put a few little thin metal strips so the bolt flange pulled the pipe tighter to the ball.
 

Spoolx

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If I had my stock pipe I would put it back on and cut out the cats
 

quikcobra

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I had the same issues I just had a local muffler shop cut the flange and weld it. they added 2 hangers also. Cost like 10 bucks perside.
 

Jefe

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Same here, welded high flow cats. Took off every connection, cleaned them up and before we put it together I had used an entire bottle of copper RTV in every bolted joint. Once its back together wipe off the excess. Haven't had a leak in over a year and I was getting them constantly. Oh also pick up a new gasket for the passenger side manifold to X connection
 

Bad03Vert

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I had the same problem with mine. I just disconnected the ball flange junction and used a 1/2" smoothed out bead of copper RTV sealant on the "female" side flanges. Torqued the bolts to 35 ft/lbs and problem solved.
 

Spoolx

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I am about to yank my exhaust off and try the copper RTV.. wish me luck
 

Spoolx

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So as i reassembled it I noticed something, it seems as if the stock flange on the stock studs limits how tight you can get the flange, the pipe feels tight but I would feel better if I could tighten it more..

Anyone ever replace those studs with studs w/ no stops?
 

moot09

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Heres what I did. I was suffering from the same leak on the ds. Drove me crazy. So I took the ds pipe for the xpipe off and put a big ass hose clamp between the flange for the xpipe and the flange for the manifold. So when you tighten the flanges together with the clamp in between, it pushed the flared end of the xpipe closer to the exhaust manifold. Sounds iffy I know, but it worked. And saved me from having to send back my xpipe for another one that doesnt leak.
 

Digital

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I had the same issues I just had a local muffler shop cut the flange and weld it. they added 2 hangers also. Cost like 10 bucks perside.
Most "back end" exhaust shops will cut your cats off and weld new pipe in for almost nothing. They get a decent amount for the palladium in them. I'd do it if you were in a state with no emissions checks like mine =)

I had the same problem with mine. I just disconnected the ball flange junction and used a 1/2" smoothed out bead of copper RTV sealant on the "female" side flanges. Torqued the bolts to 35 ft/lbs and problem solved.
That's more or less that I do. Coat both sides with some type of exhaust sealant, the copper rtv works good, then crank them down till the car frame tweaks lol.
 
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