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So I lost to a G35 coupe 6 speed on the highway....in my HCI 5.0

Discussion in 'Road Kill Drive-Thru' started by helldiver14, Aug 1, 2016.

  1. Slow Five-O

    Slow Five-O Member Established Member

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    24lbs injectors are plenty for his combo. I've run 7.20's with a dry kit and 24lb injectors in the 1/8th.


    OP your car sounds like it has the normal starter HCI combo. Which is fine. It's just not enough by today's cars standards haha. An auto is no good for roll racing and you need a stall for dig racing.

    Still from a dog I think you give him a better race so try that on him if you know the guy.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  2. archerychamp3d

    archerychamp3d Member Established Member

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    I have a wrecked 1995 gt with 5spd t5 in you interested PM me
     
  3. WhiTriCobra

    WhiTriCobra PDP Established Member

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    Honestly, with those mods and you mention a shift kit and 4.10's, I would think the outcome would have been better. How much did you get beat by? You sure he only has exhaust as the only performance mod? With the 4.10's and should have still been in your power band off the bat. I would think you make close to its crank hp but more torque.

    I had a 95 mustang gt but T5 and had ported GT40 upper n lower, gt40x heads, cam, 9AL, shorties, bassani x pipe, flow master catback, 3.73's and so on. Also had a 100 shot on there. I know I made 291rwhp on a dyno jet. Nitrous came later so I'm not sure what it made then but I beat plenty of cars that made 300 from the factory back then. And that's without the nitrous.
    But you could go with the AFR set up , custom cam,and better intake. 100-125 wet shot would work.
    I know years back when I did all my mods, my car still ran like azz even with a dyno tune. Once I did the A9L, made a huge difference.
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2016
  4. G04cobra

    G04cobra Member Established Member

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    Don't be fooled....I raced a G35 in my cobra from a 60 mph roll and the mofo kept up. Granted I could hear the huge turbo but a properly modded VQ engine with a power adder is good for 400-500HP.
     
  5. 39Mustang

    39Mustang Member Established Member

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    Maybe you should have told him to get lost as street racing is for idiots. When you think it'll never happen to me, so naive
     
  6. xsellr8

    xsellr8 BANNED Established Member

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    My wife (and I) have a 2006 G35 sedan. Not a bad car. 280HP. I'm not too surprised.
     
  7. mustangmanjeff

    mustangmanjeff Active Member Established Member

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    he has more power then a g35 just his setup needs a tweek and auto tranny is killing him, an auto g35 only dynos around 220-230rwhp manual maybe 230-240rwhp tops. its right around what a stock 2 valve gt made, with bolt ons they dont pick up much say 10-20hp tops, his car should be a 270+rwhp car. his auto tranny and racing from a roll is what helped the g35 win
     
  8. FivePointOmg

    FivePointOmg BOSS 302 #1853 Established Member

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    :lol1::lol1::lol1::lol1::lol1::lol1::lol1::lol1::lol1:
     
  9. dntalman

    dntalman Yella Terra Established Member

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    For his set up 24lb injectors are fine. His car needs a stall, TFS intake, and let's dig race a 4.10 car.. If you roll race more switch to a 3.55 gear.. You will not lose a lot down low and will gain a better advantage from a roll. If you can change your set up completely PM me and I will give you a list of parts to make your car run.. If you are limited to your current combo and can only change a few things do this.

    BUY EVERYTHING USED ON SVTP OR CORRAL.NET

    Go to Corral.net and buy all of this. Vortech complete kit, there is a nice kit on there now for 2000.00. Buy a ANDERSON PMS - One of the best tuning devices for a 86-95 Mustang. N/A or F/I it works great! USED 500.00 to 700.00
    Stall Converter 2500rpm USED 300.00 to 800.00 Depends on brand etc..
    Holley Systemax intake or TFS intake - USED PRICE 300.00 to 400.00
    Ford Racing F-303 cam - it works great N/A and F/I BUY IT NEW AROUND 150.00
    This will put you to around 500 wheel HP.. You will be hard to beat on the street..

    If you want to beat G35's change your intake and get a 3000rpm stall. You will also need a tune.
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2016
  10. myke hunt

    myke hunt Feugo Established Member

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    or just sell it and buy a clean 4th gen LS1 for 5-7k
     
  11. mustangmanjeff

    mustangmanjeff Active Member Established Member

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    he wants small things to change I dont think he has the $ to drop a blower on it etc. he said what can he change. he can do a cam intake tune and stall.

    If he does a stall and diffrent gears and maybe better cam and intake it will wake the car up alot!


    and Hes not gonna be making 500 wheel hp on a stock shortblock especially through a stock aod auto lol the stock shortblock is only good to 500-550 crank hp, even on 8-10 lbs of boost maybe 400-425rwhp tops on an auto car, 450-500rwhp with maybe 12+psi through a manual 5 speed car but then its on borrowed time will need to be rebuilt forged or new block, ive seen auto cars with a blower only make 350-380rwhp on 8 to 10psi with an auto and 5 speed cars 400-425rwhp. i would say 425rwhp max


    where my car was dynoed the tuner told me a heads cam car with stock motor with 8-10psi safe tune is around 400-425rwhp he doesnt like to go much higher then 425rwhp on a stock motor, higher compression forged maybe 450-500rwhp max. anything more your in block splitting territory

    and you dont want to go much more then 8-12psi on a stock motor or KABOOM! thats why most the kits are for 6-9psi entry s trim kit and the other kits are 8-12 psi.

    The old pushrod cars dont seem to make good wheel horsepower numbers with superchargers. The turbo and nitrous cars on other hand ive seen bone stock motor guys throw budget turbo kits on only 5 to 10 psi of boost on there cars make over 400RWHP without even doing exaust. then you have full bolt on cars with vortechs make 290-350rwhp on a stock car. and with heads cam be lucky to make over 400+rwhp.

    People forget these cars only made what 170-190rwhp stock. so even if you pick up 100+rwhp with a blower its still only a 270-290+ rwhp car with a blower. add another 100+rwhp for a heads cam setup. your still at 370-400rwhp.

    Which made me go the n.a route , I decided to go diffrent route go with a higher compression 306 keep it n/a makes decent power tons of low end makes over 350rwhp n/a pulls all the way to 6200rpms, and the car is only 3200lbs.

    That being said .. I wouldnt go as far as " hard to beat" are cars are looked down upon as red headed step child for being heavier and underpowered compared to the foxbody cars. only thing these cars having going for them is they can be had for cheap and parts are cheap and they are decent weight compared to new cars, they are only 3200-3400lbs. take some weight out you got a 3,000lb car with 300-400hp. but the new 5.0 cars out of the box bone stock are making 350-390rwhp. so even with mods these cars I wouldnt say hard to beat :( I still love my though, I would love to do larger set of the new trickflow heads and or stroker kit pick up a nice 50+rwhp bump then it would be a good run for a cam ls1 or newer cars. 380-400rwhp and only 3200lbs.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2016
  12. kevinatfms

    kevinatfms Ex-Ford/Kia/Hyundai Tech Premium Member Established Member

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    100 shot and a stall should be plenty to easily roast a FBO G35. You can piece together a dry kit(need an FMU) for under $200 or go full wet kit for around $400. That would put supercharger power for 1/4 the price.
     
  13. 03Sssnake

    03Sssnake TK-421 Established Member Beer Money Bros.

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    FWIW... I had an SN95 back in the late nineties, H/C/I and nitrous (alphabet cam F303, ported GT40 heads, GT40 intake Manifold) Stick car, HD3550 trans, that was a really fun combo back then, till the arrival of LS1 F-bodies.. on motor against stock and simple bolt-on cars I had no problem, as soon as the aftermarket started putting out cams and heads, it was game over. I had stopped using nitrous after I nearly blew up my intake manifold and obliterated a MAF. If I were to do it all over again, it would probably be 351W based 393 or 408 with Z heads on a lot of dope, the nitrous kits out now are much better!

    or

    you could always LS swap it :poke:
     
  14. crazycarlo

    crazycarlo Well-Known Member Established Member

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    If you have the money a nice set of heads and a better cam would help out. Trickflow 11R heads and a custom cam or a comp XE cam.
     
  15. Mike Morris

    Mike Morris Member Established Member

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    I think some changes would benefit your combo. You should have hammered his ass easy.
    When did you last do a tune up on that car? Any codes or Vacuum leaks?
     
  16. Gravik

    Gravik Well-Known Member Established Member

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    So you lost to a 15 second car?
     
  17. CobraBob

    CobraBob Authorized Vendor Premium Member Established Member

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    Go back and re-read Zhisel's post! He's spot on correct IMO.

    You need to increase your power and/or lose weight as Slow306Stang said.

    Re-read Mustangmanjeff's first post, too. Good info there.

    You can straighten out your setup with the right pieces and be much more competitive from a roll. You won't beat every car you meet, but you'll stand strong(er).
     
  18. Devil_Z

    Devil_Z Member Established Member

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    Lol... I too stopped reading at 24# injectors.

    Really, you would be better off just buying a different car. There are plenty cheap cars that will be a much better platform to start with then dumping money into that car. Unless there's a sentimental value.
     
  19. SVT-BansheeMan

    SVT-BansheeMan na na, hey hey, goodbye Established Member

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    hahahaaha

    And it's the car is still a 2v, i wouldnt put money into it. Lets 2v's be. Go 4v if you want power.
     
  20. Devil_Z

    Devil_Z Member Established Member

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    especially if you're getting your wig split by slow ass g35s.
     

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