Sneaky Snake's On3 Turbo 03' Cobra build

static74

in the 9's
Established Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2009
Messages
804
Location
OH
What fittings and catch can did you use on that setup for your PCV? Looks awesome.

Also, can you share how you did the tail light battery lever? How are you preventing water and moisture from getting in there when you wash the car?
 

rrpederson

lookin 4 parts
Established Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2005
Messages
2,138
Location
texas
What fittings and catch can did you use on that setup for your PCV? Looks awesome.

Also, can you share how you did the tail light battery lever? How are you preventing water and moisture from getting in there when you wash the car?

I think I read that he has a seperate set of tail lights for the street and just removes the bar to use them. I would guess he swaps those in before washing.
 

Sneaky Snake

Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2009
Messages
348
Location
H-Town
What fittings and catch can did you use on that setup for your PCV? Looks awesome.

Also, can you share how you did the tail light battery lever? How are you preventing water and moisture from getting in there when you wash the car?

Just a little 1qt. breather tank made by JAZ Products. Ordered it from Jegs as well as the fittings and hose. Fittings are Jegs Black & Red fully polished & anodized fittings. Hose is Aeroquip Startlite racing hose. I love the red tracing in the black hose, plus it's Kevlar/nomex so its lightweight, as tough as stainless, and fireproof. Got two 1/2" npt x -10an fittings and threaded them into the rubber inserts in the valve covers(did use some Teflon tape on NPT side, then cut hose to appropriate length and put the ends on. (Verify NPT size, I almost positive it was 1/2", but may have been 3/4")
As far as the batt. cut-off lever, It goes through the bottom part of the tail light where there is nothing, just its own separate, voided space. I did however use a rubber grommet on the tail light too which keeps most water out. The lights are smoked and I didn't notice any water or moisture in them when they were on. I now have the lever removed and other tail lights in that are not drilled, so it is a non-issue.
 

static74

in the 9's
Established Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2009
Messages
804
Location
OH
Just a little 1qt. breather tank made by JAZ Products. Ordered it from Jegs as well as the fittings and hose. Fittings are Jegs Black & Red fully polished & anodized fittings. Hose is Aeroquip Startlite racing hose. I love the red tracing in the black hose, plus it's Kevlar/nomex so its lightweight, as tough as stainless, and fireproof. Got two 1/2" npt x -10an fittings and threaded them into the rubber inserts in the valve covers(did use some Teflon tape on NPT side, then cut hose to appropriate length and put the ends on. (Verify NPT size, I almost positive it was 1/2", but may have been 3/4")
As far as the batt. cut-off lever, It goes through the bottom part of the tail light where there is nothing, just its own separate, voided space. I did however use a rubber grommet on the tail light too which keeps most water out. The lights are smoked and I didn't notice any water or moisture in them when they were on. I now have the lever removed and other tail lights in that are not drilled, so it is a non-issue.

Thanks for the reply. Really like the way it all looks.
 

Sneaky Snake

Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2009
Messages
348
Location
H-Town
Engine in, time to install the tranny. Bought this nifty lil' trans. jack from Harbor Freight for like $80, installed trans. all by my lonesome. Works flawlessly and makes the job soooo much easier. I've wrestled transmissions in and out of my stangs for years and never really had a problem, but the auto is much heavier, plus, I didn't want the tq conv. to become un-seated while trying to wrestle it in. I highly recommend this genius of a tool to anyone who has to remove/install a tranny with the car on jackstands!
160pwmu.jpg


The Hurst quarter stick did not have a shifter cable bracket in the box for a 4r70/4r75w,so I took the bracket for the c4 trans. and cut/welded/modified it to fit my application.
1037j94.jpg


Shifter installed. Had to notch the rear of the shifter boot console to get it in 1st gear.(Later realized if I shim the back part of the shifter up a bit, and remove some off the safety lever, this was not necessary.) Will replace later!
Note: EBoost2 controller in the cup holder. Made a trim ring out of a flat abs panel that I found at work. Also used the same abs to make a toggle switch panel to replace coin holder for the overdrive and tq conv. lock-up functions! :)
2h4lxeh.jpg


I did start on the turbo stuff after this and then I did the trans coolers and lines for trans. This is a little out of order, but since it pertains to the trans. I will include it in this section.
Used two B&M Supercoolers, part #130-70274 from Jegs good for 29,200 GVW each. Connected them in series. Probably over kill, but F-it! Better safe than sorry. Lol! Use the same Jegs red & black fittings, but opted for stainless hose on this. Note: power steering cooler tubing that comes with on3 kit. Modified factory support to hold it in place.
sgojdj.jpg

2j1rmls.jpg

30206fo.jpg

f9gi7o.jpg


Had my boy Chris weld in bung for Autometer Pro-Comp Ultra-light trans. temp gauge.
2yjwn6c.jpg
 
Last edited:

Sneaky Snake

Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2009
Messages
348
Location
H-Town
Time to start on the Turbo stuff. Note: Before installing drivers side header it is imperative that the oil filter relocation adapter & fittings be installed first. I opted to use -10an fittings and hose for this instead of the rubber hose that comes with the kit. I chose to mount my oil filter behind the bumper support on the drivers side. Just made a bracket with some alum.
2ewz9jb.jpg

k4j8jk.jpg


Ran lines through K-Member to filter housing. Wrapped lines with heat wrap where they pass by header. Note: had to trim inner fender a bit and use slit rubber fuel hose to make a grommet.
syruxh.jpg


Hot-Side done. I DID use the v-band clamps that came with the on3 kit. Went to O'rielly auto parts and picked up some Mr. Gasket 2-1/2" copper header collector gaskets and trimmed the tabs off of them. Used them in between all 3 connections on the Hot-Side along with copper RTV. No Leaks!!!
15yiukm.jpg

21awlrk.jpg


Was going to run exhaust all the way back at first. For this to line up right I chose to add about 1-1/2" of 3" o.d. stainless pipe to the downpipe.
1zqg2tj.jpg


Once again, my boy Chris to the reascue!
2cmrd6o.jpg

jb3dw8.jpg


Dual 38mm wastegates installed with miniature down-pipes. :)
2ikpc1j.jpg
 
Last edited:

stangfreak

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2003
Messages
8,388
Location
new york
Looking good man. Hey quick question. do you think a 88mm turbo can fit using that kit?
 

Sneaky Snake

Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2009
Messages
348
Location
H-Town
Now its time for the easiest part of the whole install, the Cold-Side piping. Mann, this stuff fit awesome!!! No issues what so-ever. I did choose to slot the holes in the intercooler brackets just for some adjustability. Also, I opted to pay the extra $100 for the 4" intercooler upgrade since its so "cold" in south Texas. Lol!!! It is recommended for those who will exceed 700hp.
bevrdi.jpg


Be sure and run all the Cold-Side first as the instructions indicate. That way you mount the intercooler in the right place, the FIRST time! Using the 4" thick intercooler, I did have to cut away center section of bumper support in front of intercooler for full breathing capabilities. Was still able to use foam support over "notched" bumper beams to support bumper cover.
wo8zp.jpg

k4fdyx.jpg

21altp0.jpg

23kwxg2.jpg

2rffrmc.jpg


50mm Blow-off valve installed!
e681ap.jpg


Meziere billet in-line thermostat housing. Be sure to install thermostat facing the right way! Lol!
zuo0ow.jpg
 
Last edited:

Sneaky Snake

Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2009
Messages
348
Location
H-Town
Looking good man. Hey quick question. do you think a 88mm turbo can fit using that kit?

Not sure if it will fit on mine, but there is a build on modularfords forums where a guy with a 4v bullitt has the on3 kit and he was able to put in a Precision 88! One of the SICKEST engine bays I have seen on a modular Ford. All wires tucked away and everything, really nice job!
 

Sneaky Snake

Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2009
Messages
348
Location
H-Town
Install completed, got it all cleaned up and ready to put some break-in miles on it! Here are some pics of it after cleaning!
2u6idqo.jpg

1ghwqx.jpg

20p3eo8.jpg

mtt4bm.jpg

9utcvd.jpg

2e5nuxh.jpg

8vzu60.jpg

9fyyl2.jpg
 
Last edited:

pantera408

Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2010
Messages
71
Location
texas
Jay that is a Great build... You finally did it Bro!!! Your car is SICK looking and runs like a True Champ. CONGRATS....
 
Last edited:

pantera408

Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2010
Messages
71
Location
texas
Oh FYI Peeps This ONE Clean ASS Cobra and this guy is so Anal on any of his Builds being CLEAN.... LOL sorry Bro (JAY)
 

Sneaky Snake

Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2009
Messages
348
Location
H-Town
Oh FYI Peeps This ONE Clean ASS Cobra and this guy is so Anal on any of his Builds being CLEAN.... LOL sorry Bro (JAY)
No problem Pantera...it is what it is! I'm not even gonna argue that point. Guess that's what I get for being in Quality Control. LOL!

Looks good. Glad I could help.
Thanks David, I do appreciate the help! Now be sure and let me know when your ready to do the zo6 trans. stuff.
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread



Top