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<blockquote data-quote="Real98roush" data-source="post: 16422962" data-attributes="member: 154990"><p>Gauges:</p><p></p><p>Fuel and battery don’t require any modifications to function. </p><p></p><p>The speedometer worked with the Dallas Speedcal I had from the T56 swap without additional changes. I did change the pin sequence to calibrate the speedometer for the 4:10 gears. Accutach.com is a great source of information and has calculators to figure out the pin sequence for your setup. </p><p></p><p>The other gauges required splice wires using the stock 1996 42-pin connector near the firewall on the passenger side.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1641897[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Unscrew the 10mm bolt and pull apart. I removed all the wires I wasn’t using. To do that, flip the wire harness over, pull out the red plastic pieces with needle nose pliers. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1641898[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>To remove the unnecessary wires, use a pick to lift the locking tab, pull the wire out from the top. </p><p>[ATTACH=full]1641899[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I marked all the wires I was keeping first, then removed the rest. I kept the unnecessary wires until I completed the job and confirmed the gauges were functioning. </p><p></p><p>From the factory 42-pin connector you are going to splice jumper wires to the 70-pin connector plugged into the ECU that came with the control pack. </p><p></p><p>Tachometer: </p><p>buy a noise isolator unit, $10, to keep the tach needle stable. Without this unit, interference will cause the needle to bounce. </p><p>Pin 28 (CPP+) and Pin 22 (CPP-) on the 42-pin to Pin 13 (CPP+) and Pin 12 (CPP-) on the 70-pin. Red wire on the isolator (CPP+), black wire (CPP-)</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1641900[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>Oil:</p><p>Pin 25 on the 42-pin to Pin 24 on 70-pin</p><p></p><p>A/C:</p><p>Cut the pigtail off the stock harness and splice into the CCRM in the passenger side inner fender. Pin 23 black/yellow is power, Pin 16 black wire is a ground. </p><p></p><p></p><p>IG: @does_not_listen</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Real98roush, post: 16422962, member: 154990"] Gauges: Fuel and battery don’t require any modifications to function. The speedometer worked with the Dallas Speedcal I had from the T56 swap without additional changes. I did change the pin sequence to calibrate the speedometer for the 4:10 gears. Accutach.com is a great source of information and has calculators to figure out the pin sequence for your setup. The other gauges required splice wires using the stock 1996 42-pin connector near the firewall on the passenger side. [ATTACH=full]1641897[/ATTACH] Unscrew the 10mm bolt and pull apart. I removed all the wires I wasn’t using. To do that, flip the wire harness over, pull out the red plastic pieces with needle nose pliers. [ATTACH=full]1641898[/ATTACH] To remove the unnecessary wires, use a pick to lift the locking tab, pull the wire out from the top. [ATTACH=full]1641899[/ATTACH] I marked all the wires I was keeping first, then removed the rest. I kept the unnecessary wires until I completed the job and confirmed the gauges were functioning. From the factory 42-pin connector you are going to splice jumper wires to the 70-pin connector plugged into the ECU that came with the control pack. Tachometer: buy a noise isolator unit, $10, to keep the tach needle stable. Without this unit, interference will cause the needle to bounce. Pin 28 (CPP+) and Pin 22 (CPP-) on the 42-pin to Pin 13 (CPP+) and Pin 12 (CPP-) on the 70-pin. Red wire on the isolator (CPP+), black wire (CPP-) [ATTACH=full]1641900[/ATTACH] Oil: Pin 25 on the 42-pin to Pin 24 on 70-pin A/C: Cut the pigtail off the stock harness and splice into the CCRM in the passenger side inner fender. Pin 23 black/yellow is power, Pin 16 black wire is a ground. IG: @does_not_listen [/QUOTE]
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