SN95 Heater Core "How To"

[Roushinator]

Losen this bolt so you can slide the canister out of the way to get to the next bolt.

Also moved this out of the way for access...

Now take this Nut off...

 

[Roushinator]

Now gently pull out the big black box...

 

[Roushinator]

Undo the 4 bolts and replace heater core....

Here is the new core in place....

Ready to go back in..........

 

[Roushinator]

Installed the unit back into the car.... This was fairly easy.

Underside still slightly damp...

So i used this...

 

[Roushinator]

Now FORD says (tsb) to Solder a ground wire to the new heater core to prevent the aluminum from corroding (dissimilar metals). So why didn't they do that already? Because they are dumb. I do not know how to solder alumium so this is my solution. I went to home depot and got a ground rod clamp and some new bolts but 5/8" length.

Did not over tighten so as to crush the tubing. There is about 1 thread showing on the otherside of the clamp. Used some thread lock to prevent backing out. I need to find some wire that will be good for grounding.

 

[VirtualSVT]

Awesome writeup. Soldering aluminum is just like any other metal. You might have to heat up both metals a bit first though. pretty easy.

 

[Roushinator]

For Roush intake owners the heater core hoses are special to the kit. I found that if you buy a stock heater core hose it can be modified to closely match the one that came in the kit.

I only replaced this one hose because the other one looked in real good shape.

 

[Roushinator]

Also in doing my reaserch about replacement cores i kept hearing stories about the pressure blowing out the aluminum cores. Some say that is on the fox bodies some say it happens on the 94+ as well. Who is right i don't know. But the fix is a pressure reducer that fits inside the hose.

The new water pump i got is suppose to flow more so I installed it on mine just incase.

 

[Roushinator]

This is what i finished up today. I have to figure out where one hose goes and then i can finish up the outsdie quickly.

 

[Roushinator]

Finished up on the outside. Now on to the inside tommorrow.

 

[Roushinator]

Started back on the inside. Got the dash in by myself. Really was not that hard to put it back in. I will say it would be easier if you got someone to help on this step. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.

 

[whyte_03]

i just seen coolant steam on the wifes windshield tonight.. LOOKS like i will be doing this in the next couple of weeks.. NICE write up.. my buddy did this twice with his 95 and he did not remove the seats.. i like that move.. peace!

 

[Gringo185]

Subscribing... and not looking forward to it.

 

[whyte_03]

i just seen coolant steam on the wifes windshield tonight.. LOOKS like i will be doing this in the next couple of weeks.. NICE write up.. my buddy did this twice with his 95 and he did not remove the seats.. i like that move.. peace!

i just ran a bypass hose for now.. but being out here in the high desert sucks.. its cold as hell!! peace

 

[Roushinator]

After looking around some more it looks like i should remove the ground.

http://www.modularfords.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94083

Tsb 06-21-19 Heater Core Leakage And Electrolysis (information Only)

FORD:
1997-2002 Contour
1997-2007 Crown Victoria, Mustang, Taurus
2000-2007 Focus
2002-2005 Thunderbird
2005-2007 Five Hundred, Freestyle
2006-2007 Fusion
1997-1999 F-250 Light Duty
1997-2003 Windstar
1997-2007 E-Series, Expedition, Explorer, F-150, F-53 Motorhome Chassis, F-Super Duty, Ranger
2000-2005 Excursion
2001-2003 Explorer Sport
2001-2007 Escape, Explorer Sport Trac
2004 F-150 Heritage
2004-2007 Freestar
2005-2007 Escape Hybrid
1999-2007 F-650, F-750LINCOLN:
1997-2002 Continental
1997-2007 Town Car
2000-2006 Lincoln LS
2006 Zephyr
2007 MKZ
1998-2007 Navigator
2002-2003 Blackwood
2003-2005 Aviator
2006-2007 Mark LTMERCURY:
1997-2002 Cougar, Mystique
1997-2005 Sable
1997-2007 Grand Marquis
2005-2007 Montego
2006-2007 Milan
1997-2002 Villager
1997-2007 Mountaineer
2005-2007 Mariner
2006-2007 Mariner Hybrid


This article supersedes TSB 01-15-6 to update the vehicle model years and Service Procedure. ISSUE:

The majority of repeat heater core leaks are due to high flow rate or use of poor quality coolant. However, electrolysis should also be checked, especially when repeat repairs have occurred.
ACTION:

If the heater core is leaking, review the location of the leakage and check the condition of the coolant.
SERVICE PROCEDURE


1.Review the location of the leakage and check the condition of the coolant:
1. If leaks are found on the inlet (or outlet) tubes entering /exiting the heater core, it is most likely due to due to high flow rate - replace the heater core and install a restrictor in the heater hose closest to the engine block, reference Workshop Manual, Section 412.
2. If leaks are found in the body of the heater core itself, and does not appear to be the result of physical damage like contact or puncture, check the coolant for possible electrolysis.

Testing For Electrolysis



Check for voltage in the cooling system by touching the negative contact of a voltmeter to the battery ground or a known good ground and suspend the positive lead in the coolant, making sure it is in contact with the coolant but not touching any metal part of the radiator or cooling system. Both AC and DC voltages must be checked. Vehicles normally have DC voltages; however, a faulty engine block heater or faulty diode in the alternator can produce AC voltages. It is understood that coolant is lost due to heater core failure but try to obtain a voltage reading on the old coolant in the engine block before addition to or replacement of. To keep more coolant from exiting the heater core clamp off heater core lines and measure coolant in the engine block. Try not to dilute the original coolant with new coolant during testing if possible.

1. Determine whether coolant condition is acceptable.
1. Remove both cables from the battery and ensure they do not contact each other or the vehicle.
2. Touch negative lead of voltmeter to engine ground and positive lead in the coolant.
NOTE:POSITIVE TEST PROBE IS IN THE COOLANT FOR TESTING.
3. Check the voltage in the cooling system. If less than or equal to 0.4 volts (V) OK, reconnect battery cables and proceed to Step 2.
4. If greater than 0.4 V, flush cooling system thoroughly.
5. Recheck voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V.
6. Reconnect battery cables.
7. Refill the system with appropriate Motorcraft® engine coolant.

2. Check for loose or missing grounds at static conditions.
1. Turn off all accessories. Turn ignition on but do not start engine.
2. Test with ground probe to battery ground, engine ground, and vehicle ground sequentially.
3. Voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V on all grounds OK.
4. Any one greater than 0.4 V, check and clean ground cable connections.
5. Check accessories without using the on off switch on the vehicle instrument panel, use a jumper wire to ground.
6. Plug in engine block heater, if equipped, and test.
7. Recheck voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V.
8. Unplug engine block heater, if equipped.

3. Check for loose, missing, or inadequate grounds.
1. Test with ground probe to battery ground, engine ground, and vehicle ground sequentially.
2. Crank engine but do not start.
3. Monitor voltage while cranking. less than or equal to 0.4 V OK
4. If greater than 0.4 V, ground or repair starter.
5. Start engine and run at about 2000 rpm.
6. Turn on all accessories including those customer only uses occasionally such as CB radio, cell phone, etc.
7. Test with ground probe to battery ground, engine ground, and vehicle ground sequentially.
8. Voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V OK
9. If greater than 0.4 V, turn off one item at a time until V drops to less than or equal to 0.4 V. Repair ground to the accessory just identified.
10. Recheck voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V
11. Turn the DVOM to AC volts.
12. Check for ANY AC voltage greater than 0.4.
13. If any AC voltage is present then try turning off each accessory one at a time including blower motor and any fan motors.
14. If AC voltage is still present then shut engine off and remove B+ from the alternator and tape it up then retest.
15. If voltage drop is gradual to less than or equal to 0.4 V, the ground straps may simply be overloaded by added accessories. Test by using heavy gauge jumper to ground. If indicated, install heavier gauge ground strap(s) and recheck.
NOTE:If vehicle is equipped with electric cooling fans, be sure they cycle during this testing and monitor voltage when they are on and when off.

CAUTION: DO NOT GROUND HEATER CORE. IF THE HEATER CORE IS GROUNDED, YOU HAVE PROVIDED THE ELECTROLOSIS A PATH THROUGH THE HEATER CORE. THIS WOULD CAUSE THE HEATER CORE TO BECOME AN ANODE OR RECEIVER AND IT WOULD PROMOTE THE ELECTROLOSIS, OR ANY STRAY VOLTAGE TO USE THE COOLANT AS THE GROUND PATH.

4. Refill the engine cooling system, reference Workshop Manual, Section 303-03.

NOTE: IF THE HEAT OUTPUT IS INSUFFICIENT, OR THE ENGINE DOES NOT REACH NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURES, VERIFY PROPER THERMOSTAT OPERATION AND REPEAT PROCEDURE IF REQUIRED.

WARRANTY STATUS:

Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage