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SVTPerformance's Chain of Restaurants
Show'n'Shine Saloon
Small Before/After with Porter Cable
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<blockquote data-quote="gt03mustang" data-source="post: 8010187" data-attributes="member: 15151"><p>There are a few reasons SSR2.5 could of left the hazing it did.</p><p></p><p>1. You did not buff it long enough and the polish did not break down properly.</p><p></p><p>2. You buffed too long and marred the paint.</p><p></p><p>3. The combination of 2.5 and the pad you used is just an aggressive combo and you need to follow it up with a finishing polish (SSR1), and a finishing pad.</p><p></p><p>How long were you actually buffing that section for? It takes a LONG time for the PC to properly break down polishes. People typically do not work the polish long enough which results in micro marring and or filling of imperfections.</p><p></p><p>You can reduce the marring you get by improving your technique with SSR2.5 and whatever pad you used. However, I highly suggest you follow it up with a lighter polish/ pad to remove any marring and increase the level of gloss.</p><p></p><p>Remember, polishes are broken into categories. Compounds, moderate cutting polishes, and finishing polishes. They all serve a specific purpose. </p><p></p><p>Compounds are heavy cutting and are designed to remove severe imperfections. After using a compound, you will typically be left with compounding marks and hazy paint, but the original imperfections should be removed. You need to follow up with a moderate cutting polish to remove the compounding marks and haziness.</p><p></p><p>Moderate cutting polishes are designed to remove moderate imperfections and marks left behind from compounding. After using a moderate cutting polish, you should be left with a glossy surface<strong> free from any buffer marks</strong>. This includes micro marring, holograms, etc.</p><p></p><p>The job of the finishing polish is to burnish or jewel the surface in order to produce maximum gloss, NOT to necessarily remove imperfections. In fact, I do not move to my finishing polish until the surface is free from all imperfections, especially buffer marks. It is important to use finishing polishes with finishing pads to produce maximum gloss AND not leave any buffer marks behind.</p><p></p><p>In general, each type of polish should be used with a certain type of pad. However, compounds and moderate cutting polishes can be used with a variety of pads. BUT IMO, finishing polishes should always be used with finishing pads.</p><p></p><p>When you have properly polished a panel and used the proper products and techniques to jewel the surface and produce maximum gloss, you will see very little difference between the polished surface and where you applied your glaze, wax and or sealant. If you look at your 2nd and 3rd picture, there is a significant difference between the appearance of the paint. The haziness (micro marring) appears to be gone and the paint is glossy. However, the glazes and waxes you put on are just hiding all of the imperfections in your second picture, you did not actually remove them. If you wiped the area down with alcohol, than it would remove the glazes and waxes, thus removing the fillers, and revealing all of the micro marring and haziness again. SO, the only way to actually remove those imperfections is to properly polish the paint. <strong>The 3rd picture is actually a great example of how much those glazes and waxes FILL/ HIDE imperfections.</strong></p><p></p><p>Think of it like this, as aggressiveness of the polish goes up, gloss goes down. As aggressiveness of the polish goes down, gloss goes up.</p><p></p><p>Everything I just discussed is also affected by the type of paint (hard vs. soft), your technique, machine being used, the type of polish being used and how the abrasives in it were designed- are the abrasives diminishing or non diminishing abrasives, etc., etc. I could go on forever.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="gt03mustang, post: 8010187, member: 15151"] There are a few reasons SSR2.5 could of left the hazing it did. 1. You did not buff it long enough and the polish did not break down properly. 2. You buffed too long and marred the paint. 3. The combination of 2.5 and the pad you used is just an aggressive combo and you need to follow it up with a finishing polish (SSR1), and a finishing pad. How long were you actually buffing that section for? It takes a LONG time for the PC to properly break down polishes. People typically do not work the polish long enough which results in micro marring and or filling of imperfections. You can reduce the marring you get by improving your technique with SSR2.5 and whatever pad you used. However, I highly suggest you follow it up with a lighter polish/ pad to remove any marring and increase the level of gloss. Remember, polishes are broken into categories. Compounds, moderate cutting polishes, and finishing polishes. They all serve a specific purpose. Compounds are heavy cutting and are designed to remove severe imperfections. After using a compound, you will typically be left with compounding marks and hazy paint, but the original imperfections should be removed. You need to follow up with a moderate cutting polish to remove the compounding marks and haziness. Moderate cutting polishes are designed to remove moderate imperfections and marks left behind from compounding. After using a moderate cutting polish, you should be left with a glossy surface[B] free from any buffer marks[/B]. This includes micro marring, holograms, etc. The job of the finishing polish is to burnish or jewel the surface in order to produce maximum gloss, NOT to necessarily remove imperfections. In fact, I do not move to my finishing polish until the surface is free from all imperfections, especially buffer marks. It is important to use finishing polishes with finishing pads to produce maximum gloss AND not leave any buffer marks behind. In general, each type of polish should be used with a certain type of pad. However, compounds and moderate cutting polishes can be used with a variety of pads. BUT IMO, finishing polishes should always be used with finishing pads. When you have properly polished a panel and used the proper products and techniques to jewel the surface and produce maximum gloss, you will see very little difference between the polished surface and where you applied your glaze, wax and or sealant. If you look at your 2nd and 3rd picture, there is a significant difference between the appearance of the paint. The haziness (micro marring) appears to be gone and the paint is glossy. However, the glazes and waxes you put on are just hiding all of the imperfections in your second picture, you did not actually remove them. If you wiped the area down with alcohol, than it would remove the glazes and waxes, thus removing the fillers, and revealing all of the micro marring and haziness again. SO, the only way to actually remove those imperfections is to properly polish the paint. [B]The 3rd picture is actually a great example of how much those glazes and waxes FILL/ HIDE imperfections.[/B] Think of it like this, as aggressiveness of the polish goes up, gloss goes down. As aggressiveness of the polish goes down, gloss goes up. Everything I just discussed is also affected by the type of paint (hard vs. soft), your technique, machine being used, the type of polish being used and how the abrasives in it were designed- are the abrasives diminishing or non diminishing abrasives, etc., etc. I could go on forever. [/QUOTE]
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Small Before/After with Porter Cable
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