I have low confidence in the tuner and the direction you are being led down. I sent you the guy to reach out to tune the car with the ms3 and he will make the car run perfect. Did you reach out to him?
Single vs twin
- Thread starter Marvin9075
- Start date
So is Ohio. However, if you provide documentation that it's a limited production vehicle / collector / show car they make an exception. You shoukd check to see if Texas does the same.
Holley is more expensive. If you like keeping the stock gauges you would need the Gate-Way harness from RACE Products and its not cheap. MS3 is far far cheaper and does everything you need from the higher end Holley ecus. I went the Gate-Way harness and Holley Dominator ecu and im in it for a good amount.
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The stock computer is an archaic 8 bit design.
These are the hallmarks of 8 bit design.
www.maxim.com
Keep it under 6500rpm soft rev limit (pull timing) 6750 hard limit (cut).
Headstuds and gaskets to offset wonky mid range 1500-4000rpm cylinder pressure when ve is terrible and the computer is slowly guessing fuel trim and spark tables
Get a good ECU soon enough to enjoy the car. Do you want to spend the next 2-3 years worrying about oil viscosity/temp, part throttle cluelessness from the ECU, mid range rpm fuel dumps, fowled plugs, blown reluctor wheels, scratched pistons, grenaded valve seats, blown heads, detonated pistons….
A 500whp turbo gen 3 coyote would blow up in 5 wot 1/4 mile pulls with a hypothetical sn95 new edge computer. Yes that’s 99% because of the 7000rpm table limit, but even short shifting it at 7k, I don’t think it would last 500 street driven miles at 500whp in a turbo setup with that computer. It’s too slow and was never designed to handle the low and mid range part and full throttle mix with turbo boost playing into the mix. The fuel and spark tables have to be scaled to reach 400hp, and scaling them again to handle 800hp creates 1-4% inaccuracy in fuel delivery. Plugs fowl very quickly when fuel is too rich and scorch when it’s too lean. Plug failures are often the start of many other failures.
I think we have more than 97% of the dna of a monkey and 92% of an elephant or something like that. It’s not horseshoes so in ECU anything under 99.8% is a big problem.
These are the hallmarks of 8 bit design.
Here Are The Greatest 8-Bit Video Games of All Time - Maxim
Go old-school with the most iconic retro games of the Nintendo era.
www.maxim.com
Keep it under 6500rpm soft rev limit (pull timing) 6750 hard limit (cut).
Headstuds and gaskets to offset wonky mid range 1500-4000rpm cylinder pressure when ve is terrible and the computer is slowly guessing fuel trim and spark tables
Get a good ECU soon enough to enjoy the car. Do you want to spend the next 2-3 years worrying about oil viscosity/temp, part throttle cluelessness from the ECU, mid range rpm fuel dumps, fowled plugs, blown reluctor wheels, scratched pistons, grenaded valve seats, blown heads, detonated pistons….
A 500whp turbo gen 3 coyote would blow up in 5 wot 1/4 mile pulls with a hypothetical sn95 new edge computer. Yes that’s 99% because of the 7000rpm table limit, but even short shifting it at 7k, I don’t think it would last 500 street driven miles at 500whp in a turbo setup with that computer. It’s too slow and was never designed to handle the low and mid range part and full throttle mix with turbo boost playing into the mix. The fuel and spark tables have to be scaled to reach 400hp, and scaling them again to handle 800hp creates 1-4% inaccuracy in fuel delivery. Plugs fowl very quickly when fuel is too rich and scorch when it’s too lean. Plug failures are often the start of many other failures.
I think we have more than 97% of the dna of a monkey and 92% of an elephant or something like that. It’s not horseshoes so in ECU anything under 99.8% is a big problem.
Car is about to be finished possibly this week . The amount of things the last shop did wrong is alarming. It’s in good hands now.
The amount of fab work it was gonna take for the cg kit to fit my car , the new shop suggested going with the hellion twin kit was the best route. The attention to detail they have put into it has made it a brand new car and it’s what I expected when taking it to a professional.
Luckily they caught some issues from the fuel system like fuel lines not ran correctly and a failed fuel pump.
Should have dyno numbers by the end of the week.
Sounds like it’s coming together great, I want to see this work out about perfect for ya. Good luck buddy
I have Caleb forward headers on mine, with custome down and “up”(?) pipes. We couldn’t get the stock sway bar to fit but we’re fabbing something now. I’m kinda excited to see how the front end will feel with what is effectively gonna be a 12-15mm bar but recessed geometry so even less than that in effective geometry. I’m hopeful it’s just enough bar to tie the front together for consistent feel mid corner bumpy road aggressive g force. Less understeer would be awesome.
We have to stretch and route a smaller bar out a few inches so time will tell.
I’ve heard these cars love a comparatively bigger rear sway bar than front. We’ve pulled so much weight outta the front (150lbs plus) between the 5.3L cammer aluminum block (90 to “110lbs” but bigger pistons/longer rods probably eats that up a bit.), ported gt500 heads (caverns, probably pulled 5lbs out machining the ports haha), mm kmember and a arms, 5lbs crash bumper, brembo brake kit, 8lbs lighter wheels, etc etc. it could be closer to 200lbs. The fr500c intake is actually very light, like 25lbs. Also have a trufiber s281E hood with prop shocks that’s gotta be 10lbs to 20lbs lighter than stock. The stock fiberglass hood is super heavy.
I think the stock supercharger/heat exchangers/etc are sizes or slightly heavier than my 58’s and front mount. 50lbs from the 75lbs Eaton (factoring my intake manifold is about 25lbs), and tensioner, 15lbs each turbo, bob’s bla bla probably a wash.
The ff headers from Caleb are much lighter than the stock logs, that much I do remember well. The charge piping and down pipes kinda wash out anything +/- on the power adder configuration weight.
I’ll be curious how the overall handling feels when I’m back on the road. We did just pull about 20lbs of wiring too doing the Holley and wire clean up. Crazy how much wire these cars have.
Were you able to get the stock front sway bar back in your turbo setup OP? @Marvin9075 @badcobra ??? Anyone else have to go a customized front bar route? Sorry if I’m thread jacking, it just works into the current part of the threads header/clearance stuff
We have to stretch and route a smaller bar out a few inches so time will tell.
I’ve heard these cars love a comparatively bigger rear sway bar than front. We’ve pulled so much weight outta the front (150lbs plus) between the 5.3L cammer aluminum block (90 to “110lbs” but bigger pistons/longer rods probably eats that up a bit.), ported gt500 heads (caverns, probably pulled 5lbs out machining the ports haha), mm kmember and a arms, 5lbs crash bumper, brembo brake kit, 8lbs lighter wheels, etc etc. it could be closer to 200lbs. The fr500c intake is actually very light, like 25lbs. Also have a trufiber s281E hood with prop shocks that’s gotta be 10lbs to 20lbs lighter than stock. The stock fiberglass hood is super heavy.
I think the stock supercharger/heat exchangers/etc are sizes or slightly heavier than my 58’s and front mount. 50lbs from the 75lbs Eaton (factoring my intake manifold is about 25lbs), and tensioner, 15lbs each turbo, bob’s bla bla probably a wash.
The ff headers from Caleb are much lighter than the stock logs, that much I do remember well. The charge piping and down pipes kinda wash out anything +/- on the power adder configuration weight.
I’ll be curious how the overall handling feels when I’m back on the road. We did just pull about 20lbs of wiring too doing the Holley and wire clean up. Crazy how much wire these cars have.
Were you able to get the stock front sway bar back in your turbo setup OP? @Marvin9075 @badcobra ??? Anyone else have to go a customized front bar route? Sorry if I’m thread jacking, it just works into the current part of the threads header/clearance stuff
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You'll get better spool and a wider powerband, which is very noticeable on a manual street car. It’ll make driving at lower RPMs way more enjoyable than a larger single. You’ll have full boost sooner, easier traction control via throttle modulation, and a less peaky feel
I am happy ended up wit the twins. Hoping to have the car back this week to see how it is .
No front sway bar on mine. Guess will see how it goes .
I ran mine without a front bar for 2 years. Didn’t die; honestly didn’t even really feel too weird honestly unless I was way aggressively cornering on bumpier tarmac.
No sway bar on mine, I have a big single max effort type combo, drive only on a drag pack so handling is never really a concern. Just need the car to go straight which it does. I’ll be switching to a twin turbo setup over the summer so I can add AC back in the car and run pump gas so I can drive the car more. I have to buy [emoji6
][emoji6] gallon drums of E as there’s no pumps around.
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][emoji6] gallon drums of E as there’s no pumps around.Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
I dont have a sway bar either. not that noticeable unless youre railing on/offramps or twisties. 6 years now and I enjoy my slides and offramps without issue.
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