If you get the plug and play model it keeps the stock gauges.Who’s your guy that does it remote? Do you have traction control set up on yours? Works with factory gauges too correct?
If you get the plug and play model it keeps the stock gauges.Who’s your guy that does it remote? Do you have traction control set up on yours? Works with factory gauges too correct?
Could you send me his information by chance … I have to see if they will let me use there dyno for remote tuningIt's an aftermarket computer. It does a way better job controlling fueling, you can build safeties into it, you can run any size injector with no problem and you can set up traction control. There are many other things. The advice to put a stock computer back in is totally irresponsible and misguided. It sounds like their tuner is not comfortable with tuning MS3, which is fine for them to admit that, but that just means you need to hire someone else to handle the tuning part and they just focus on the build. My guy can tune MS3 no problem and he's brilliant and highly skilled at what he does and can easily be done remotely.
I know turbos make more power than blowers at the same boost, but I think switching to 1050’s is a mistake. I’m making 829 through my KB blower on 1050’s. I had to raise my base pressure to 50 lbs to not run out of fuel. I’m running 22 psi on E85.Little bit of an update.
Car has FIC 1400cc and switching to ID 1050s per what the tuner likes .
Turns out one of my fuel pumps wasn’t plugged in and damaged so swapping those out for two hell cat pumps
Upgraded the turbos to twin ball bearing 62 66s
Using the E boost 2 as the controller and going back to the stock computer for now. Would like to stick with the ms3 but always run into issues with getting the car registered here in Texas since it still needs to be plugged in to a state inspection machine to pass. Tired of having to work around that every year. Whenever I get classic insurance on the car I’ll switch back to a stand alone system since it won’t need an emissions test.
Cg fab single kit will be out of the car soon and up for sale for a quick sale. Throw me a pm if interested.
Goal on stock motor is mid 900s on E85
I messaged the tuner today to clarify cause I did some research and it looked like 800 Range was the most for them … it’s possible they put the wrong size injector on the estimate they gave me so I’ll find out for sureI know turbos make more power than blowers at the same boost, but I think switching to 1050’s is a mistake. I’m making 829 through my KB blower on 1050’s. I had to raise my base pressure to 50 lbs to not run out of fuel. I’m running 22 psi on E85.
Even on a turbo, I’m not sure 1050’s will support 900 hp. You might need more injector for your goals.
I guess they have had problems with the FICs in the past… yeah I think the ID1300s are good for 200 Hp per injector from what I was reading and the 1050s are 80-120 Hp per injector.I'd look into ID1300's if he wants ID's. But the FIC's aren't bad. Makes me wonder why he doesn't like them.
If budget is the problem, then you should save over $1000 and use the 1400cc injectors you already have.Talked to the tuner and he said at 900 hp the injector would be at 83 percent duty cycle so that leaves a little room … I am so over budget with this build I am just sticking with that … he said he could get close to to 1000 but I am stock motor and don’t need to go much above the 900’mark
That was actually my plan with my set up originally. I could swap everything out in about an hour. That included putting the narrow band sensors back in.as far as emissions - does it have to be run on a dyno or anything or literally just plugged in and scanned? Wondering if they can do a base tune good enough to swap the OE ECU back, baby it over there, pass and put the MS3 back. Then just do that swap on whatever interval. Any chance you can age the car out as a classic or something like that? I know every state is different (or just knowing that in 5 years you can do it etc).
Yeah that’s my plan. For geico the car needs to me 25 years old for classic. I am sure there’s other companies I can switch too that allow classic insurance sooner then 25 years.Honestly, taking a 25 year old car and building it up to a powerful turbo car, you probably just need to switch to collector plates and be done with emissions.
It’ plugged in and scanned on a state inspection machine.to keep the factory gauges with the holly is another $1500 bucks or so for the plug and play harness setup from what I remember.
as far as emissions - does it have to be run on a dyno or anything or literally just plugged in and scanned? Wondering if they can do a base tune good enough to swap the OE ECU back, baby it over there, pass and put the MS3 back. Then just do that swap on whatever interval. Any chance you can age the car out as a classic or something like that? I know every state is different (or just knowing that in 5 years you can do it etc).
Yeah that’s my plan. For geico the car needs to me 25 years old for classic. I am sure there’s other companies I can switch too that allow classic insurance sooner then 25 years.
Got it … just looked it up and Texas is 25 yearsI know every state is different, but the whole registration, plates, emissions ect has to do with the state you like in, not who insures the car.