Single Turbo time!

thewrubelator

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Out of curiosity, what made you stick with factory COP's? Where does the alternator go with that intake setup? Like the build so far.

I figured I’d stick with them until they give me issues. I changed so many things on the car, I just didn’t even think about doing them until late in the build. If I start experiencing issues with breaking up, then I’ll go to a smart coil or something.

Alternator goes in the valley, The throttle body will be reduced to 3” so it’ll clear.




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thewrubelator

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Update! Car is in the fab shop getting all the cold side piping done, the down pipe and exhaust, having quick disconnected put on in the bumper for easy on/off, tubular core support as well. Hopefully have it back at the end of the week.

This treadstone IC is MASSIVE btw! But we are making it work!

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2fst4urtrk

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All those bends are goin to kill spool time lol. Looks killer man! why didnt they go over the top of the bumper mount and save 3 90s lol
 

thewrubelator

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Above are some update status pictures of the Cobra. Going to route brake lines, install the Cobra rear brake son the 8.8, and hopefully finish up the Holley wiring and dash installation this weekend. Once all that is finished, it will almost be time to make some Oil Pressure! It has been almost a year since this project as started, and its finally coming to an end.

Unfortunately, the way it is looking right now, I will be posting it for sale after I get a little bit of enjoyment from the car and make sure everything is 100%. I have taken a new job in the last few months, and I am hardly home enough to be able to enjoy it. It kills me to think about selling it, but life happens sometimes. Its not a for certain thing, but highly possible..

Now, what would you guys think a fair price for this car would be? it rolled 20k miles the day the valvespring failed, (and obviously hasn't went up sense then LOL).
03 Silver Metallic, factory spoiler delete, 20k miles. (I am planning to put around 500-1000miles on the car before selling, just to verify no issues, and everything is solid.)

-Teksid block std bore, Molnar power Adder Plus rods, Diamond Mod2k, 10:1, hand ported heads, heads completely gone through, PAC springs/retainers, upgraded exh seats, +.5mm Valves, Todd Warren bullet cams, ARP 2000 Head studs, ARP 2000 Rod Bolts, Wonder racing complete timing set, billet guides, HD chains, etc. Sullivan intake manifold, Wilson 102mm TB

-1000hp TH400, JW SFI Bell, JW Flexplate, (im not very up to speed on transmission stuff, I will get the build sheet), CCI Driveshaft, strange billet yoke, 1350s, stifflers trans mount.

-CG fab hot side, Presicion 46mm gate, motion C02, Tial BOV, FI 80/96 V2 1.10 A/R, Treadstone IC, Custom shrouded rad w/fan, Vibrant HD bands.

Strange front race brakes, racecraft 2” drop spindles, complete ABS delete, new lines routed, Strange front coilovers, Team Z K-member, Z bumpsteer, Strange master Cylinder, stran Cobra rear brakes, 8.8, 3.55 w/ trutrac, 31 spline, ARP Studs, Weld V-Series rear, Weld RTS front, Viking double adjustable rear coilovers spec'd by Jon Pavia, subframe connectors, welded tubes, Martys control arms.

Behind bars 14 gal aluminum tank, sullivan rails, Aeromotive reg, Aeromotive Brushless 5.0 pump (latest and greatest, 1600whp capable on e85), Holley 160s.

Holley HP EFI, Holley 7.5" Dash, all electronics and controllers are Holley.
 
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badcobra

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Keep the car man, you'll get pennies on the dollar to what you have invested. There is absolutely zero sense in going through all this time and effort to build a car, to then immediately sell it because of a job change. I'd sell that fancy boat before I sold my car lol.
 

thewrubelator

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Keep the car man, you'll get pennies on the dollar to what you have invested. There is absolutely zero sense in going through all this time and effort to build a car, to then immediately sell it because of a job change. I'd sell that fancy boat before I sold my car lol.

Only time I’ll the boat, is when I’m ready to buy a bigger one lol!

But ya, I know I’d lose my ass if I do decide to get out of the car. It has just crossed my mind. We will see once it actually runs. I may just fall back in love with it when I hear it start for the first time!


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thewrubelator

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Quick update with the progress of the car.. got all the plumbing on the engine finished up, coolant, oil, and CCV are complete. harness is routed for the most part (needs to be buttoned up). Still need to mount the dash, route all the gate/C02 and BOV plumbing and boost noid, fuel system and brake lines then she will be ready to fire! Hoping to have this thing running and driving before thanksgiving.

Rear end will be getting pulled out for some updates, Strange race brakes, complete brace kit, ARB, 3.73, spool, 9” big ends, strange 33 spline axles.
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2fst4urtrk

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god i love how clean the engine bay came out. really making me want to do a wire tuck but no one around me for guidance.... one day ill do it, til then ill have to finish my turbo build and dream of a clean engine bay like this lol

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thewrubelator

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god i love how clean the engine bay came out. really making me want to do a wire tuck but no one around me for guidance.... one day ill do it, til then ill have to finish my turbo build and dream of a clean engine bay like this lol

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Thanks! Appreciate the compliment! Honestly the wire tuck is not that bad, even with a factory harness! But, having the Holley made it a whole lot easier.


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thewrubelator

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People! In need of some help/guidance.

Need a rough idea on belt size to start with on my car. No Powersteering pulley, AC delete pulley, water pump, Alt on top with stock pulley, stock 03 tensioner, metco idler. just need a starting point to get somewhat close and i can figure it out from there.
 

4sdvenom

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If no one chimes in with a size you can do one of the following methods!
If you can get your hands on a seamstress tape you can wedge the tensioner about 2/3rds opposite of the direction it applies tension. Wrap the tape around your belt routing, pull it tight and see what you get. Otherwise you can use a piece of string to do the same or take an old belt and cut it and do the same and mark the belt where it overlaps!
I did the last and took off an extra 1/2 inch to to allow for belt stretch. Will having no power steering pulley cause issues with the belt making contact with itself on the water pump pulley? Or do you have an extra idler pulley on the drivers side of the engine to keep the belt clear of it?
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thewrubelator

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If no one chimes in with a size you can do one of the following methods!
If you can get your hands on a seamstress tape you can wedge the tensioner about 2/3rds opposite of the direction it applies tension. Wrap the tape around your belt routing, pull it tight and see what you get. Otherwise you can use a piece of string to do the same or take an old belt and cut it and do the same and mark the belt where it overlaps!
I did the last and took off an extra 1/2 inch to to allow for belt stretch. Will having no power steering pulley cause issues with the belt making contact with itself on the water pump pulley? Or do you have an extra idler pulley on the drivers side of the engine to keep the belt clear of it?
View attachment 1621236

Thanks! Water pump should be good with the way I’ll have it routed, a few local guys have similar setups and have had no issues. But we shall see!


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thewrubelator

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We’ve got oil pressure! Been almost 2 years in the making, and finally started it. Still have some things to finish before it’s ready to go. I’ll post a video in a separate comment

Thanks everyone for all the help and following this process, can’t wait to make a number and get it down the track.


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