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Shortblock build, opinions wanted

Discussion in 'SN-95 and New Edge Mustangs' started by thelonebean, May 27, 2021.

  1. thelonebean

    thelonebean Just a slow 99 Established Member

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    My current mmr motor has almost 50k miles on it and I want to start fresh and build a block on the side so I have a spare when this one goes. I'm planning to stick with the 2v platform with some patriot stage 2 heads and cms stage 2.5 blower cams and going to pair this with a d1sc and a 2.8 or a 3.2 pulley depending on how I'm feeling. Keep in mind this engine will probably live off of e85. This block will be a Romeo iron block from either dss racing, or modmax racing so please give recommendations on compression ratio to go with, piston ring gap, as well as rotating assemblies to be good for 1000hp. Don't think I'll ever touch that number but I want the option for the future. Thanks in advance
     
  2. SecondhandSnake

    SecondhandSnake Well-Known Member Established Member

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    If you're going with E85 you could probably go with 11:1 CR. For the rotating assembly I'd go with a forged crank (OE/Kellogg if possible), Manley, Gibtec, or Diamond pistons, tool steel/heavy duty wrist pin upgrade, probably stainless rings. I'd run the manufacturer's recommended PTW clearance and ring gap for the bore you end up with. For the rods the Manley 4340 H-beams will work, but I built mine for 1000hp and regret not going to the stronger I-beams so I could turn it up further. Also ARP 2000 studs and rod bolts go without saying.

    I would probably opt for a Teksid or WAP block, but that's just me.
     
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  3. Black02GT

    Black02GT *Not 2KBlackGT Established Member

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    Holy crap DSS and Modmax still exist?! Haven't heard those names since the magazine AD days. Some of the tuner around here and starting to walk back the CR a little. I'm at 10.6:1 but with a VMP and it's kind of on the edge even with e85 when it comes to pump inconsistency. Otherwise agree with all above. I'm a Teksid fan but then you'll want to look into the timing chain pins.
     
  4. LSwat

    LSwat Member Established Member

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    Can't say enough good things about DSS, the owner is an awesome guy , super knowledgeable, and will gladly talk you through whatever you're thinking. I went in with a spec'd out build for a motor, he sat down and went through it with me, gave some insight and provided some recommendations. Strongly recommend giving em a call explaining your goals and laying out what you want to do.
     
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  5. thelonebean

    thelonebean Just a slow 99 Established Member

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    thank you for the advise. I think just to be safe I'll be around 10.4 to 1, the e85 pump near me usually tests in the high 80's but I wouldn't want to chance it. Cobra or kellogg cranks are my intention but they are very hard to find in good condition or new so I'll probably go with a manley or eagle crank. I was going to go with manley pistons but I have heard great things about wiseco pistons withstanding well over 1000hp and they come with their own rings that are steel and can support 50lb of boost supposedly but I'm for sure getting upraded .200 to wall wrist pins with those. For rods, I'm probably going to go with a molnar pwr adr or a k1 technologies rod which are pretty much the same casting but different brand, but if those are out of stock or manley goes on sale, I'll pick up manley rods instead. Good advise on manufacture's recommendations cause I completely forgot about that haha. Arp 2000 studs and bolts are a must, would be a waste of an engine if I had any other bolt in there.
     
  6. thelonebean

    thelonebean Just a slow 99 Established Member

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    Surprisingly yes haha. I'll probably be in the neighborhood of 10.1 or 10.4 to 1... 11 to 1 sounds a little to risky for me. I bought a teksid before and it got absolutely man handled by fedex and it was a horrible experience so I'm just going to stick with what works cause I don't want to drill into the deck of the block just to run the 2v heads haha so for that, I'll be going with a romeo
     
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  7. SecondhandSnake

    SecondhandSnake Well-Known Member Established Member

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    I wouldn't be too afraid of 11:1. There's guys out there running 13:1+, though as always, camshaft selection and dynamic compression ratio have to be accounted for. If you're concerned about fuel quality you can always have a backup tune or two on your handheld and flash it as need be.

    With the iron blocks the concern becomes the cylinder wall thickness. They can have issues with cracking in the bore. I also wouldn't worry about having to drill the block. It's incredibly easy, and very forgiving. You just drill right into the water pump cavity. The head gasket limits the orifice size anyway. I know Teksids are getting rare, but an 05+ WAP is just as good as an alternative.

    I'm just going off my experience building my engine and what I will be doing for the next one.
     
  8. thelonebean

    thelonebean Just a slow 99 Established Member

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    yea maybe 11:1 isn't that extreme, I do have 45cc heads and stage 2.5 blower cams which I'll have to account for but you are right with the different tunes. I have heard about the cracking of the walls but I'm planning on keeping stock bore to try and avoid that. If anything, I wouldn't go teksid again, I'd go with 05+ alum block (nimek I think it's called) but I've heard you can't just transfer everything over like a romeo. I think the motor mounts are different as well as the oil filter location and timing chains/guides could be different as well. Could be wrong but I just want it to be as simple as possible. If you have experience using 05+ blocks please let me know cause I haven't found a thread yet where someone knows exactly what they are talking about.
     
  9. SecondhandSnake

    SecondhandSnake Well-Known Member Established Member

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    It should be pretty easy using an 05+ WAP block, or at least the right one. It might take some searching but it was a popular 2V rebuild option in a couple different forms. Some guys would run whole 05+ Mustang 3V engines in their New Edges, so no issue on motor mounts. And lots of guys ran the earlier WAP blocks found in 2V Explorers for weight savings. The one weird note I'd add is you want to make sure you use the oil adapter gasket for that year block, otherwise it will leak everywhere.

    This guy said he had no problems doing it- Aluminum Block With 2V Heads
     
  10. thelonebean

    thelonebean Just a slow 99 Established Member

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    If I were to go aluminum, I would 100% go with 05+ block. But with that said, there are people that are pushing 900+whp on stock terminator iron block so I might get a new ford performance Romeo block and send it with a rotating assembly from modular headshop. Jordan over there knows his shit and if done right, the engine will last a while at 800-900+whp. I really appreciate your insight on this, sounds like you've done a few rebuilds yourself
     

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