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SVT Shelby GT500
Short shifter or blowfish support bracket?
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<blockquote data-quote="Catmonkey" data-source="post: 15948999" data-attributes="member: 124025"><p>I put a bottle jack under the oil pan with a piece of wood that covers the whole bottom of the oil pan. Just barely loosen the nut on the top of the mount on one side and remove the nut on the one you want to tackle first. Jack up the engine about a half inch (you may need to go higher later) and loosen the two bolts that hold the mount to the K-member. You'll need a long extension and both sides can be accessed from up top. Passenger side is a little tighter clearance wise. The mount should be able to be wiggled out at that point. Consider jacking the engine up a little higher if you're not having much luck removing. The stud on top may give you a little grief on clearance. The plastic insulators around the mount may make it difficult to get out of there, but once the mount is loose, you should be able to separate them from the mount and remove them first. Once it's out, install your new mounts on that side and lower the engine. You don't want to fully tighten the top bolt that goes though the engine mounting bracket until the other side is finished. You need for the engine to move a little on the opposite side that your changing, but not too loose that it starts lifting the whole engine upward. You want it loose enough so it tilts, that's all.</p><p></p><p>I have to admit when when I swapped out the OEM mounts, the engine was out of the car, but I have removed the aftermarket mounts several times doing just what I posted. If you have headers it may be more of a challenge with the OEM mounts.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Catmonkey, post: 15948999, member: 124025"] I put a bottle jack under the oil pan with a piece of wood that covers the whole bottom of the oil pan. Just barely loosen the nut on the top of the mount on one side and remove the nut on the one you want to tackle first. Jack up the engine about a half inch (you may need to go higher later) and loosen the two bolts that hold the mount to the K-member. You'll need a long extension and both sides can be accessed from up top. Passenger side is a little tighter clearance wise. The mount should be able to be wiggled out at that point. Consider jacking the engine up a little higher if you're not having much luck removing. The stud on top may give you a little grief on clearance. The plastic insulators around the mount may make it difficult to get out of there, but once the mount is loose, you should be able to separate them from the mount and remove them first. Once it's out, install your new mounts on that side and lower the engine. You don't want to fully tighten the top bolt that goes though the engine mounting bracket until the other side is finished. You need for the engine to move a little on the opposite side that your changing, but not too loose that it starts lifting the whole engine upward. You want it loose enough so it tilts, that's all. I have to admit when when I swapped out the OEM mounts, the engine was out of the car, but I have removed the aftermarket mounts several times doing just what I posted. If you have headers it may be more of a challenge with the OEM mounts. [/QUOTE]
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SVT Shelby GT500
Short shifter or blowfish support bracket?
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