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Short shifter or blowfish support bracket?

Discussion in 'SVT Shelby GT500' started by Ballsgt, Jun 30, 2018.

  1. Catmonkey

    Catmonkey I Void Warranties! Premium Member Established Member

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    As far as all the slop you see in the stock sifter in that video with the engine off (the before peice in the video), you need to consider what changes occur with the Blowfish bracket. The bushing on the rear of the shifter simply bolts to the bracket, same as it does the body. All that wobbly motion you see is not because of that mounting point, it's the pivot joint at the end of the shifter shaft. Now when you throw in the mushy stock engine mounts you have flex between the body mount and the transmission because of torque, that will cause some additional misalignment, but most of what you're experiencing with the stock sifter is built into that shifter design. But your money, your choice. Let us know how it works out.
     
  2. Cman01

    Cman01 hello Established Member

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    Yes, but remember the Blowfish mount is attached to the trans so it will move with the trans which means now the shifter will also move with it (assuming that you are getting the lockout/grind because the back of your shifter is attached to the body of the car (which doesn't torque over like the trans) but your fork arms are attached to the trans and will move with it).

    Look, I get it that the MGW is leagues ahead of the stock shifter and most likely down the road I probably will pick one up but at this time I really don't think adding the MGW instead of that bracket will solve my issues with shifting my Shelby under race conditions.

    As stated earlier, I'm kinda done throwing parts at my car since last year I did my weight reduction mods (lightweight battery, BMR K) and my 3:73 gear install (remember that was a whole fiasco since the 3:90 didn't work out) and currently I'm sitting on over US$1500 worth of HP adding mods (ARS tensioner, 10% ATI, PMAS, BPS ported elbow and FRPP monoblade) that I want to install but there's no point if this thing doesn't shift worth a crap when I need it. So I'm trying out the bracket first, besides since I did those little upgrades with the stock shifter I don't mind it at all under all the other conditons other than at the strip.

    Tony
     
  3. HillbillyHotRod

    HillbillyHotRod Hooligan rabble rouser Established Member

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    Is that just the 07-09 or also the later models where they turned the battery around?
     
  4. Totalpkg

    Totalpkg Active Member Established Member

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    Another option: 05'-14' Mustang GT/GT500

    Upgraded clutch master cylinder... I spoke to the owner who owns a GT500 and he claims it got rid of the high rpm grind. He is local in London, Ontario, Canada.
     
  5. Harry08

    Harry08 Active Member Established Member

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    I have looked at the Blowfish bracket for quite some time. I'm lucky. I personally don't have any 1-2 grind issues, l only replaced the rubber shifter bushings with metal ones. With all of the modded cars out there I'm surprised more people have not tried the bracket. Guys keep swapping shifters in search of a cure maybe the bracket is worth a shot?
     
  6. Cman01

    Cman01 hello Established Member

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    ^^^^^^Do you race your car at the strip? Do you shift like a normal person when at the track going for the 1-2 shift to get the best time possible out of your car or do you short shift or granny shift that 1-2 so you don't get the grind/lockout?
     
  7. Cman01

    Cman01 hello Established Member

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    For the # of people ragging on this bracket and whether it actually works or not to solve the grind/lockout issue it looks like more people buy and try the bracket than they care to admit.

    I called AM Friday aftn. to speak to someone about it and other stuff, I was kinda ready to place the order but the angel or devil on my shoulders told me to hold off. They had stock at that time although I did not ask the quantity they had.

    Fast forward to yesterday aftn, decided FINALLY to order this thing and they're OOS. I did my order for a Motive brake bleeder at Summit yesterday and was hoping both things will arrive for me to pick up next weekend in Buffalo...…………….oh well.

    edit: LMR has it and did the order with them online, due to St. Patties sale got 7% off the price (with the weak Canuck dollar every little bit helps) with free shipping. Looks like road trip back in the plans for next weekend to pick up the parts.
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2019 at 10:40 AM
  8. Harry08

    Harry08 Active Member Established Member

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    I run the car hard both street and strip. KB2.8, 4.10 gears, full rear BMR suspension. etc. I had the same problem. Changes the helped, replaced sloppy rubber bushings for metal. Synthetic trans fluid. Poly engine mounts after the KB install and when I plan on beating on the car I move the seat forward to make sure when shifting the clutch padal goes fully to the floor.
     
  9. Cman01

    Cman01 hello Established Member

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    As shown in the post above I ordered the bracket so I'll be the next guinea pig here to try it, will get my Amsoil ATF later this week so stay tuned to see what the results will be.

    I swear if after this doesn't solve the problem I am seriously tempted to !mod my car back to stock to sell (don't want to but seriously having a 662hp car that can't even get the 1-2 shift down properly from the factory is BS).
     
  10. Catmonkey

    Catmonkey I Void Warranties! Premium Member Established Member

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    I hardly think I was ragging on the bracket. I simply pointed out that if you want your shifter to feel solid, you need to replace it, and that the bracket wasn't the part to get you there. Sounded to me your priority was to take the slop out of the shifter, but it now seems you want to be able to shift your car at WOT. That's sort of a different concept altogether to me. Mounting the shifter to the trans certainly has some merit, but will do nothing for that lateral movement in the stock shifter in any gear. I had the first version of the MGW and while it was a nice improvement over stock, it's not even in the same league as the second design.

    While I have poly bushings for engine mounts, I know the rubber transmission mount is still a pretty soft piece. But I'm pretty happy with the way things are at the moment with my car. If I did decide to do that mount, it would probably have more to do with getting a driveshaft loop under the car. My exhaust made other loops options unusable. I just think the shifter makes a bigger impact that the bracket will. I'll be interested to hear your results doing the bracket over the shifter.

    I just want to say too, that if you've had enough lock outs and grinding shifts, your synchos could already be damaged.
     
    BOOCOCKY likes this.
  11. Cman01

    Cman01 hello Established Member

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    I wasn't specifically saying your were ragging on the product it was just a generalization.

    Yes, I want to be able to shift my car at WOT or damn close to it, every other car I've owned I have been able to do that with no problems so this car having it because of that stupid shifter design from Ford is crap IMO.

    Now, as for the shifter slop again even when my shifter was totally stock I didn't have the amount of play that MGW showed in their video on the 2012 car. For all we know that shifter could've been reefed on and heavily shifted for years before a MGW went in that car. Now that I've added the metal bushings in the forks and the KR mount it feels more solid. Am I saying it is as solid as the MGW2 design? No. I'm sure the inherent design (good and bad) of the stock shifter is still there. I am simply eliminating the shifter being mounted on the body to the trans to see if it will solve my problem, I guess having a loop there is a bonus. Again please watch my vid and MGW's vid to compare the slop between the stock 2012 shifter and the 2 after George installed it you'll see that my slop is nowhere close to what the slop is on the stock 12 shifter and maybe a little more than the 2 after install.

    Again, TBH I still don't really want to add this part especially after my weight loss mods last year now I'm adding 8lbs. back on the car to get a proper 1-2 shift (hopefully).

    From memory I can say that since new and hitting the strip about 4 times and sending it the odd time on the street with this car I've experienced the lockout /grind maybe 5 times (give or take) so maybe the synchro might've taken a beating but I don't think they are damaged. I certainly don't force it if it feels like it's not going there so no worries about that.
     
  12. Race Red Boss

    Race Red Boss Active Member Established Member

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    ^^^ Cman, look forward to hearing your feedback after you've got the Blowfish installed and given her some runs through the gears.
     
  13. Black Cobra '99

    Black Cobra '99 Active Member Established Member

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    Well, aren't you still throwing parts at the problem then? (rhetorical questions)
    To solve a problem first find the cause, MGW says (and this have been documented by Tob) the lockout comes from too short of a throw on the 11/12. The MGW slows down the throws to what the 07-09 had and this should solve the problem. Even so, I'm not saying this will work %100 of the time, the bracket could be the missing link, especially considering what is physically happening outside the transmission.

    I know this is frustrating and it isn't the first time we hear about it. But, you are in the unique position to find if there is an actual solution. I would still stick with it and try the MGW with the bracket, and if you feel up to it without the bracket to really see the difference. I'm really interested in what you find, good luck.
     
  14. Bad Company

    Bad Company Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Tony

    I haven't tried to speed shift this car since I've gotten it back together. At this point the car will break traction at 90-100 mph in third gear on a 315 Michelin Pilot Super Sport tire just rolling on the throttle gently. Data logging is showing that I usually don't open the throttle blade above 50%-55% while playing around on the street. So the only feedback I can give you is that the transmission in my opinion shifts much easier than it did with the Barton shifter in it before. Even when the transmission is cold the first to second gear shift takes much less effort to make, whereas with the Barton when cold you almost had to force the shifter to move, especially downshifts from second to first.
     
  15. Harry08

    Harry08 Active Member Established Member

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    Good luck with the bracket project. I hope it cures the issue for you.
     
  16. Bad Company

    Bad Company Well-Known Member Established Member

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    I also do have the RJM Performance
    Stage 2 Clutch Master Cylinder. I used this due to the fact I used a Ace 3 disc clutch. I wanted to have the throw out bearing move quicker to disengage the clutch faster. It did increase pedal effort above stock. Now could this also help with the grind issue, I'd say yes. But I'd also believe most of your issue is the stock shifter with the rear mount to the body and the front mount to the transmission. This is causing the shifter to twist due to the engine/tranny moving and the body not.
     
  17. Catmonkey

    Catmonkey I Void Warranties! Premium Member Established Member

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    The 13-14 OEM clutch master cylinder is also 13/16" bore and can be used in place of the 07-12 clutch master. With the increased fluid capacity, it will push more hydraulic fluid to the throw out bearing with more movement of the pressure plate given similar clutch pedal movement. The result is a better clutch release without engagement right off the floor with the clutch pedal.
     
  18. Bad Company

    Bad Company Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Catmonkey I realized after reading you last post that I actually have the Stage 3 RJM Performance clutch master cylinder. I was able to purchase one before he added released them for sale to the general public. It does increase pedal effort. It also increases the speed with which the slave moves because of the increase in fluid displacement. I'd recommend this mod for anyone using a 3 disc clutch.
     
  19. Chancey

    Chancey Auto Affection Established Member

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    I have a 13 with very low miles and my factory shift assembly rattles and is sloppy. (It dies shift ok however) I just ordered the MGW to replace it. When I took a deeper look at the factory assembly, the pivot ball is very loose/sloppy and the entire unit flexes and moves around alot. When I get the new one and install it, I will post the results. From everything I read on here and elsewhere the MGW is the best.
     

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