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SVTPerformance's Chain of Restaurants
Show'n'Shine Saloon
~Shine Seal Review~
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<blockquote data-quote="PistolWhip" data-source="post: 10746070" data-attributes="member: 30361"><p>For very fine scratches that won't come out with polish alone, just hit them with 2500 then 3000 grit sandpaper. Then polish with a 3" cone buffer on the end of a cordless drill (your better off with low torque and medium to high speed). If the scratches are small enough to go away with 2500 or finer sandpaper, you should be able to get away with "spot" repairs.</p><p> </p><p>For oxidized, stained or heavier scratches, start with 1000 or 1500 (depending on how bad they are) and work your way to 3000. You'll have to do the entire lip if you do it this way, in order to keep the finish consistent. They'll come out like brand new if you take your time and progress through the sandpaper grades, then polish. If you have 3 piece wheels, taking them apart makes a complete re-polish job eleventy-million times easier.;-)</p><p></p><p>The left rim is before any polishing, but after heavy cleaning to prepare for polishing. On the right is a wheel I just finished up. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]193836[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Closer look at the oxidized and stained finish.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]193837[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>And the finished lip</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]193838[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>The entire process took about an hour per rim and maybe another 15 minutes to very carefully take them apart. When my centers get back from Steve's I'll post up pics of the finished wheel and let you all know what it takes to get them back together. You'll also noticed that I coated the inner hoops in bed liner paint. This will keep the bare metal hoops from getting pitted and stained from brake dust and should give the assembled wheel really pop once its on the car since it'll make the centers and lips stand out more as the inner hoops just disappear into the rest of the undercarriage.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="PistolWhip, post: 10746070, member: 30361"] For very fine scratches that won't come out with polish alone, just hit them with 2500 then 3000 grit sandpaper. Then polish with a 3" cone buffer on the end of a cordless drill (your better off with low torque and medium to high speed). If the scratches are small enough to go away with 2500 or finer sandpaper, you should be able to get away with "spot" repairs. For oxidized, stained or heavier scratches, start with 1000 or 1500 (depending on how bad they are) and work your way to 3000. You'll have to do the entire lip if you do it this way, in order to keep the finish consistent. They'll come out like brand new if you take your time and progress through the sandpaper grades, then polish. If you have 3 piece wheels, taking them apart makes a complete re-polish job eleventy-million times easier.;-) The left rim is before any polishing, but after heavy cleaning to prepare for polishing. On the right is a wheel I just finished up. [ATTACH=full]193836[/ATTACH] Closer look at the oxidized and stained finish. [ATTACH=full]193837[/ATTACH] And the finished lip [ATTACH=full]193838[/ATTACH] The entire process took about an hour per rim and maybe another 15 minutes to very carefully take them apart. When my centers get back from Steve's I'll post up pics of the finished wheel and let you all know what it takes to get them back together. You'll also noticed that I coated the inner hoops in bed liner paint. This will keep the bare metal hoops from getting pitted and stained from brake dust and should give the assembled wheel really pop once its on the car since it'll make the centers and lips stand out more as the inner hoops just disappear into the rest of the undercarriage. [/QUOTE]
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SVTPerformance's Chain of Restaurants
Show'n'Shine Saloon
~Shine Seal Review~
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