Home
What's new
Latest activity
Authors
Store
Latest reviews
Search products
Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New listings
New products
New profile posts
Latest activity
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
Cart
Cart
Loading…
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Search titles only
By:
Menu
Log in
Register
Navigation
Install the app
Install
More options
Change style
Contact us
Close Menu
Forums
Cobra Forums
2015+ Shelby GT350 Mustang
Shifteck resonator delete X-pipe
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="ANGREY" data-source="post: 15788214" data-attributes="member: 188865"><p>Ideally it's a minimum of a couple inches slip connection with a clamp. Even more ideal is that the upstream section always slips into the downstream section (i.e. it's the downstream female receiver that's flared to accept the upstream male portion). This prevents bucking of the connection. It's nitpicky but does create more friction/head losses with pipe connections if the connection "bucks" the flow and creates a turbulence point.</p><p></p><p>If the kit doesn't come flared and has the flexibility to cut to fit (on the OEM) this is easily solved at the muffler shop, as they can flare the insert section. The only problem is that they can flare the one female end, but then at the other end, you'll have the bucking issue, (not a huge deal, just not best practice). Only other solution would be to totally remove the rear section of the exhaust and flare those joints, which isn't really practical.</p><p></p><p>An even more ridiculous option would be to simply weld the joints, which isn't all that different from the OEM setup, because in the OEM setup, the only bolted/removable connection is after the flex sections at the front.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ANGREY, post: 15788214, member: 188865"] Ideally it's a minimum of a couple inches slip connection with a clamp. Even more ideal is that the upstream section always slips into the downstream section (i.e. it's the downstream female receiver that's flared to accept the upstream male portion). This prevents bucking of the connection. It's nitpicky but does create more friction/head losses with pipe connections if the connection "bucks" the flow and creates a turbulence point. If the kit doesn't come flared and has the flexibility to cut to fit (on the OEM) this is easily solved at the muffler shop, as they can flare the insert section. The only problem is that they can flare the one female end, but then at the other end, you'll have the bucking issue, (not a huge deal, just not best practice). Only other solution would be to totally remove the rear section of the exhaust and flare those joints, which isn't really practical. An even more ridiculous option would be to simply weld the joints, which isn't all that different from the OEM setup, because in the OEM setup, the only bolted/removable connection is after the flex sections at the front. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Cobra Forums
2015+ Shelby GT350 Mustang
Shifteck resonator delete X-pipe
Top