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Shelby Front Brake Pad Removal/Replacement

Discussion in 'How-To' started by TAHOE GT, May 29, 2007.

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  1. TAHOE GT

    TAHOE GT New Member Established Member

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    In case any of y'all have the desire to change your front brake pads for any reason here is a write-up. It almost couldn't be any easier.

    After you have removed the wheel you are faced with the rotor/caliper assembly:

    PICT1285.jpg

    Pad removal is unbelievably easy, as these calipers are designed to allow for a quick change in pads at the track. Brembo has made pad removal as easy as driving out 1/8” two pins. They're the two shiny silver circles near the top of the caliper. They're hard to miss.

    PICT1286copy.jpg

    Here you can see the retaining pins and the anti-rattle spring. Also, you can see the 1/8” welding rod I used as a driver for the pins. (My students lost our 1/8” pin punch and another broke my 1/16”.)
    PICT1287.jpg

    Here you can see me driving out the pin:
    PICT1288.jpg

    Once the pin has been pushed from the outside of the caliper body, it can just be drawn out by hand. However, you will need to compress the anti-rattle spring as seen her.

    PICT1289.jpg

    Once one pin is out the spring will flop free. It can be removed at this point as it’s quite loose.

    PICT1290.jpg
    Drive out the remaining pin.

    In order to remove the pads I pried a little on the corner of the pad's metal platesto compress the pistons and loosen the pad. I then lifted the pad straight out. It’s important to know which pad is the inboard pad and which is the outboard one. They are directional. You can see the arrow of rotation in on one of the pads here.

    PICT1292.jpg


    The stock pad has “Ferodo 4446” stamped into the backing plate. From my conversation with Porterfield, the pads are AP 1001 and readily available. Remember that AP 1001 defines the caliper application (meaning that all AP1001 pads have the same dimensions), so all you need to tell your retailer is that number and what you're using them for.

    Installation is the reverse of removal. I installed one pin and tapped it home with a ball peen hammer

    Next, install the anti-rattle spring, compress it and install the second pin. Remember to tap it home as well.
    PICT1289.jpg

    Install wheel and torque to 100 lb/ft. (You do use a torque wrench, don’t you?)
    Important note: Always depress the brake pedal after servicing the brakes, but before you begin moving the car. You MUST have a firm pedal BEFORE moving. Also, don’t forget to properly bed your pads, especially if they are brand new.
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2007
    sbrooks likes this.
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