Shaving weight off 2014 Mustang GT

68gtscode

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I may have missed it, but if you don’t already have light weight aftermarket wheels, I would start there. Light weight manual seats are an easy one, but I agree with others that I wouldn’t gut the interior. Either way, it will always be slow without a power adder!
 

OX1

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On a street car, just buy a blower and enjoy it.

Yes, the only weight savings I paid for was lighter rad support (especially since sway bar was being upgraded and radiator came out when blower was going in), mostly to make up for heavier front sway bar and lightweight battery (and home made alum battery mount), but not until my stock battery was going anyway.

I did rear seat/belt delete and home made cardboard/black material setup in it's place. I removed spare/jack, but I leave
trunk carpet in place (except track). That in combo with even my cardboard rear seat cover, cuts way down on any rear end whine.
I also have Roush upper/lowers, which don't use any kind of solid bushing (so less whine transmission). No way I would ditch pass seat, unless it was track only temp mod. Rear seat is useless for adults, but unless you ALWAYS want to drive around by yourself.

So with only Roush phs 3, VMP tune, and X-pipe, I trap 130 in good air (and that was even after adding front brembos, negating some of my free weight savings). Can still get it for 7 grand ROUSH 5.0L Aluminator Engine - Phase 3 - 675 HP Supercharger Kit. I paid a little under 6, 3 years ago with a Summit price match off some obscure site that had a too good to be true deal.

I've often wondered how much $$$$$$ it really takes to get a NA coyote into the 10's (again, without absolutely gutting, including stuff like AC). It's a cool feat and all, but seems like a lot of work and track time required (unless you are a track junky, and I'm not). And even then, I doubt you get the rush from a roll I get from say 40-90/100.
 

Austin Brian

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Yes, the only weight savings I paid for was lighter rad support (especially since sway bar was being upgraded and radiator came out when blower was going in), mostly to make up for heavier front sway bar and lightweight battery (and home made alum battery mount), but not until my stock battery was going anyway.

I did rear seat/belt delete and home made cardboard/black material setup in it's place. I removed spare/jack, but I leave
trunk carpet in place (except track). That in combo with even my cardboard rear seat cover, cuts way down on any rear end whine.
I also have Roush upper/lowers, which don't use any kind of solid bushing (so less whine transmission). No way I would ditch pass seat, unless it was track only temp mod. Rear seat is useless for adults, but unless you ALWAYS want to drive around by yourself.

So with only Roush phs 3, VMP tune, and X-pipe, I trap 130 in good air (and that was even after adding front brembos, negating some of my free weight savings). Can still get it for 7 grand ROUSH 5.0L Aluminator Engine - Phase 3 - 675 HP Supercharger Kit. I paid a little under 6, 3 years ago with a Summit price match off some obscure site that had a too good to be true deal.

I've often wondered how much $$$$$$ it really takes to get a NA coyote into the 10's (again, without absolutely gutting, including stuff like AC). It's a cool feat and all, but seems like a lot of work and track time required (unless you are a track junky, and I'm not). And even then, I doubt you get the rush from a roll I get from say 40-90/100.

my tuning company Lund, one of the calibrators has his s550 very close to 10s he doesn’t have much done either. Very realistic build. His name is Alex
 

OX1

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my tuning company Lund, one of the calibrators has his s550 very close to 10s he doesn’t have much done either. Very realistic build. His name is Alex

Yeah, a lot easier with closer to 500 gross HP ( I really think Ford underated 18+'s) and 10 speed auto. I might consider it without blower if I had 18+ auto S550.
 

Austin Brian

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Yeah, a lot easier with closer to 500 gross HP ( I really think Ford underated 18+'s) and 10 speed auto. I might consider it without blower if I had 18+ auto S550.

oh for sure, the 18+ are gold I’d buy one but I already have a healthy coyote given it’s a gen1. Spend another 7k I can make pretty good power reliable and safe without cracking open the engine to build it. 600wheel and 10 second street car for 30k cap price. Not to shabby if I say, plus I love a solid rear axle one of the biggest I’ve went with an s197.
 

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