Self ported blower pic's and numbers

Posi

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rollbarportdeer025.jpg


Okay where the shadow is at the top of the channel is the last place I can think of that I'll try to port on the next one(the one coming off my car). It's from the inside out and just rounding the corners off some to hopefully help the air again as it tries to ram itself through the intercooler. As you guys can see I'm putting a lot of thought into this. Also I've changed my mind a little. I think I'm keeping my Eaton and I'll just save that tune and I can take the Whipple off the car slap the Eaton back on, reload the tune and it's ready to go! Then I can find out what it will do. Unless a reputable driver on here wants to borrow or slap it on their car for some numbers.:beer:
 

deec73

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Were those numbers on the graphs STD or SAE? Cant tell, the top of the pictures are cut off.

Either way, damn good numbers for a "do it yourself" job.
 

Posi

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Actually I had one more secret that I thought of but Steig. beat me to it.:beer:
 

SVTkel

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Good numbers.

Hey POSI - why do you grind off the IC bolt holes outside of the blower (i.e. no hump)
 

Posi

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Good numbers.

Hey POSI - why do you grind off the IC bolt holes outside of the blower (i.e. no hump)


I ground the IC bolt hole humps off because that's where the air is coming back up from around the intercooler and making the U-turn to go back down to the heads. IMHO this should be done on any ported blower because #1 they're in the way and #2 it only takes about 10 minutes tops with a good cutter in a 1/4" grinder.
 

Posi

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Were those numbers on the graphs STD or SAE? Cant tell, the top of the pictures are cut off.

Either way, damn good numbers for a "do it yourself" job.


The numbers are the "corrected" numbers. I don't and wouldn't "fudge" any numbers.:beer: That's not why I'm doing this. It's because I want to figure porting out so anybody has pictures to go off of and then to show the tools you can use to get it done with.:rockon:
 
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Posi

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I told my wife when I did mine that within 5 blowers I could know exactly what I was doing and do a complete (and I do mean COMPLETE as in the farthest anyone has ever ported one!) port job on an Eaton. Well it's been 2 now, and 3 with the finish of my blower and then I think the port will be as good as it could ever get!

:beer:
 

SVTkel

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Okay good tip - thanks. I haven't had my blower off for a year so that tidbit slipped by me.
 

wldtang

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Here's the dyno picture that I have with the Ported Eaton that's on my car now. This blower did not get the Case cut on the bottom nor the Intercooler bolt stock removed. Everything else is pretty much the same. Before anyone asks yes the a/f was smoothened out some more. The timing is at 21*. Look how fast the torque builds up to 500.
assorted009.jpg


assorted008.jpg

what is the mods to the motor besides port?
 

Posi

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^2.93/4lb lower combo, 1 5/8 Kooks Lt's, Kooks o/r x-pipe, borla exhaust, NGKtr6 plugs, K&N FIPK, ported Accufab TB, ported Accufab Plenum, C&L inlet pipe. That's about it for more hp mod's. Then all the fuel mod's Big Air, 60lb. inj.'s, SCT X-cal.....
 

strtrenegade

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Did you remove the rotors while you were grinding or at any point during the project? Did use use oil while you were cutting?


The whole case gets disassembled from the snout to the rotor pack in order to do a port job. Transmission fluid works great as a cutting lube.:beer:
 

Posi

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The blowers come apart in a way that is completely fool proof basically. Take the snout off the go on to the next plate which holds the rotors and lightly pry or tap and it will come right out. With my grinder and a good coarse cutter I didn't need any cutting fluid. But like strtrenegade said tranny fluid will work.
 

mach1gsxr

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Okay where the shadow is at the top of the channel is the last place I can think of that I'll try to port on the next one(the one coming off my car). It's from the inside out and just rounding the corners off some to hopefully help the air again as it tries to ram itself through the intercooler. As you guys can see I'm putting a lot of thought into this. Also I've changed my mind a little. I think I'm keeping my Eaton and I'll just save that tune and I can take the Whipple off the car slap the Eaton back on, reload the tune and it's ready to go! Then I can find out what it will do. Unless a reputable driver on here wants to borrow or slap it on their car for some numbers.:beer:

POSI, I understand the reasoning behind the rest of the porting, but I can't understand why no one has removed the ridges from the s/c. I would think that would be one of the first things done.

Anyone care to chime in and say why?

thanks,
Archie
 

Posi

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Are you talking about the ridges underneath that help for strength? If so I'm not touching many of those. That clearance in there isn't much and if you make it to weak and it moves then you've just ruined yourself a perfectly good blower.
 

mach1gsxr

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Ok. I just see that part of the casing looking pretty thick. Are you going to at least smooth it out some are just leave it as it came from the factory?
 

Posi

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Ok. I just see that part of the casing looking pretty thick. Are you going to at least smooth it out some are just leave it as it came from the factory?

Leave it because I'm 99% sure it's there for strength and will help keep the case from distorting any.
 

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