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The Terminator
Engine/Tuning
School me on rotating assemblies... school me on cams...
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<blockquote data-quote="Livernois Motorsports" data-source="post: 15571636" data-attributes="member: 151528"><p>Well it looks like you have a lot going on there. If your after solid reliable 4 digit rear wheel #'s we do NOT recommend a iron 2 bolt block especially in a .020" over. </p><p>The proper way to do this would be with a sleeved 3v block.</p><p>If the car is at full weight running a o-ring/ receiver groove and copper head gasket is a recipe for success launching hard on a sticky tire. </p><p>As far as rotators go, at that power level you will want to put together a custom one. No off the shelf stuff if your after durability.</p><p>The o.e. Cobra crank will be fine power rating wise but that depends on its condition. It would seem a shame to build a new big power engine and not go larger bore and stroke as the dollars are not that much different in the end unless you go billet on the crank. </p><p>-custom piston (dish or flat top would be based off of the crank and compression choice)</p><p>-AP stainless ring set</p><p>-U.S. heavy wall wrist pins</p><p>-Billet i-beam conn rods</p><p>-reworked cobra crank or aftermarket stroker</p><p>-coated bearings </p><p>-main studs</p><p>-2000 head studs</p><p>full block prep </p><p>full cylinder head prep</p><p>billet gear oil pump </p><p>good oil pan </p><p>quality damper </p><p>camshafts should be ground for the combo and installed with the proper lash and gears</p><p>professional assembly by a modular specialist </p><p></p><p>Are those mac headers large enough primary tubes for 1000 wheels with a big huffer?</p><p></p><p>We can always recommend combos and components to people but you need to make sure the parts match up with the goals and budget. Otherwise you will have a expensive paperweight/door stop.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Livernois Motorsports, post: 15571636, member: 151528"] Well it looks like you have a lot going on there. If your after solid reliable 4 digit rear wheel #'s we do NOT recommend a iron 2 bolt block especially in a .020" over. The proper way to do this would be with a sleeved 3v block. If the car is at full weight running a o-ring/ receiver groove and copper head gasket is a recipe for success launching hard on a sticky tire. As far as rotators go, at that power level you will want to put together a custom one. No off the shelf stuff if your after durability. The o.e. Cobra crank will be fine power rating wise but that depends on its condition. It would seem a shame to build a new big power engine and not go larger bore and stroke as the dollars are not that much different in the end unless you go billet on the crank. -custom piston (dish or flat top would be based off of the crank and compression choice) -AP stainless ring set -U.S. heavy wall wrist pins -Billet i-beam conn rods -reworked cobra crank or aftermarket stroker -coated bearings -main studs -2000 head studs full block prep full cylinder head prep billet gear oil pump good oil pan quality damper camshafts should be ground for the combo and installed with the proper lash and gears professional assembly by a modular specialist Are those mac headers large enough primary tubes for 1000 wheels with a big huffer? We can always recommend combos and components to people but you need to make sure the parts match up with the goals and budget. Otherwise you will have a expensive paperweight/door stop. [/QUOTE]
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School me on rotating assemblies... school me on cams...
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