scatter shield questions....

brian97cobra

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so im just wondering how many of you guys are running a quick time scatter shield. ive given up on mine and put the stock bell housing back on mine.

it was a tight fit with the turbo stuff (but it fit). but the biggest problem I had was starter not aligning up properly. I was told you have to index the bell housing possibly. I tried that... nope, I finally got it close and had to shim the start back out of the bell housing about 1/4 with aluminum spacers. it still grinded slightly when starting but not very bad.

before it would make terrible grinding sounds when starting. no other issues. yes it sucks that I don't have it on the car but I just don't get why mine would not align up properly. this should be a plug and play item. for $550 buck... the factory bells ive used have never created this kind of issue before.

im slightly worried about not having it because the car makes 1000 RWHP. but im just at a loss and tired of the damn grinding starter.

so what did you guys do or use? am I the only one with this issue?
 

D-MANN

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I have the same issue with my QuickTime. I have just put up with the sound on start up. I also had bought some 1-7/8 ARH headers and had a clearance issue with the pipe touching the QuickTime around the starter. I would need to modify the QuickTime to make these headers work. I decided to keep my Mac 1-5/8 headers on for the time being since they cleared the starter on the QuickTime. The stocker has no issues with the starter or 1-7/8 headers so I might ditch the QuickTime scatter shield. I'm pretty choked to have spent the money and have two issues I don't think I should have on a piece this expensive.
 
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brian97cobra

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Glad I'm not alone. I did a Google search and found several threads about the issues.

Total bs...

Waste of money. I should not have to modify such a simple piece.

Anyways thanks for the response
 

willis414

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I run a quick time bell, it did need some help to clear the kooks long tubes but mine fit great no issues.
You should Google "clutch explosion" or "flywheel explosion" might change your determination.
It's not a part I hope to ever need but when I do I'll be glad it's there.

There was a drag racer at Lebanon valley dragray working under the hood of his car. The guy was running the throttle buy hand when the flywheel came apart. The flywheel ended up sawing his arm off below his elbow. Not good!
If you make that power put a blowshield on. Make it fit! It's not supposed to be easy.
 
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brian97cobra

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I know yes for NHRA I need one. yes for safety it would be great. but right now the car has been down 4 years I didn't sell it... I don't drag race this car. its just a weekend toy and I take it to car shows and dyno shows. I do not have a cage either. so it wont be on any track til I get a cage. when I get a cage ill make it work at that time. til then im content when the stocker.
 

willis414

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It's your car and your decision, but do you think a clutch or flywheel failure will only happen at the racetrack?
 

brian97cobra

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It's your car and your decision, but do you think a clutch or flywheel failure will only happen at the racetrack?

do you know how many people run these cars with as much and more power than mine and do not have a scatter shield.

I don't disagree with the safety stand point.

but my grip is the product is made of poor fitment... im tired of the issues with it and ill find another option at a later date.

also when is the last time you have heard of or seen one fail? ive never personally heard of a 03 04 cobra or any 99-04 gt losing a flywheel or clutch.

there are risk in everything we do in life. some carry more risk than others. ill take my chances
 

DSG2003Mach1

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ya the quick time bell is a pain in the ass, especially since there are no offset dowels for us to help align the damned thing. Mine makes a very slight noise when starting but didnt seem to be causing any issues. I think my tuner was the only person to even notice/question it.

After watching a few videos of that shit coming apart I decided to deal with it. I dont remember the combo or anything but it was a new edge car I believe, parts came up through the dash, wipe cowl, hood, destroyed the trans, destroyed the rear of the engine block etc...

but I understand where youre coming from
 

oldmodman

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I have put the Quiktime Shield on a couple of cars (actually with the engine out and on a stand) and I used a method that was described over on ModFords.

First thing I did was take the housing and lay it on a glass table (glass it usually perfectly flat. Then I used a dial readout to measure the "parallelity" of the front and back plate so the transmission would be guaranteed to be flat with the back plate of the engine/crank. Luckily it was withing the limits of the readout (less than 1/4 thousandth).
If your measurement is off it is a very simple and inexpensive fix at any decent machine show. They would only need to remove a thousandth or less to make both flanges perfectly parallel.

Then I drilled the alignment dowel holes slightly oversize. And with some super thick washers from McMaster Carr under each ARP bolt I adjusted the concentricity to absolute zero. (the washers were a perfect fit to the bolts with no side play at all). Some wshers will neeed to be honed to make the fit perfect. Loose is bad.!!

Then when the bellhousing was absolutely, perfectly aligned with the crankshaft centerline I welded the washers to the bellhousing. Now it was perfectly aligned without any chance of a loose adjustable dowel moving during later assembly and screwing up the adjustment. No matter how many times you might pull it to do clutch adjustments. Don't forget to remove that nice black finish from under the washer where you are going to weld it.

Here is a thread with pictures showing what I am referring to. The person that described this solution has come up with more practical solutions to Mod Motor problems than I even knew existed. Ed Scheider should put all his engineering work-arounds into a sticky.

http://www.modularfords.com/threads/187627-Tranny-is-Out!
 

brian97cobra

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I have put the Quiktime Shield on a couple of cars (actually with the engine out and on a stand) and I used a method that was described over on ModFords.

First thing I did was take the housing and lay it on a glass table (glass it usually perfectly flat. Then I used a dial readout to measure the "parallelity" of the front and back plate so the transmission would be guaranteed to be flat with the back plate of the engine/crank. Luckily it was withing the limits of the readout (less than 1/4 thousandth).
If your measurement is off it is a very simple and inexpensive fix at any decent machine show. They would only need to remove a thousandth or less to make both flanges perfectly parallel.

Then I drilled the alignment dowel holes slightly oversize. And with some super thick washers from McMaster Carr under each ARP bolt I adjusted the concentricity to absolute zero. (the washers were a perfect fit to the bolts with no side play at all). Some wshers will neeed to be honed to make the fit perfect. Loose is bad.!!

Then when the bellhousing was absolutely, perfectly aligned with the crankshaft centerline I welded the washers to the bellhousing. Now it was perfectly aligned without any chance of a loose adjustable dowel moving during later assembly and screwing up the adjustment. No matter how many times you might pull it to do clutch adjustments. Don't forget to remove that nice black finish from under the washer where you are going to weld it.

Here is a thread with pictures showing what I am referring to. The person that described this solution has come up with more practical solutions to Mod Motor problems than I even knew existed. Ed Scheider should put all his engineering work-arounds into a sticky.

http://www.modularfords.com/threads/187627-Tranny-is-Out!

I read that thread and yes that will work but really I'm mad at quick time for piss poor quality.

I plan to write them a letter in detail a with pictures and also provide a video. I then plan to take it to social media for a large impact and help create a change and fixed product.

For what your paying and what they are selling is a raw casting bellhousing and is garbage. I for one don't plan to let this continue and not make an effort to help other car enthusiasts.

I should not have to do all those modifications to a freaking bellhousing!!!
 

willis414

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Do you have pictures you can post here? It seems you had some abnormal fitment isues. I can tell you that all scatter shields require work to fit properly. I did the same centering process Oldmodman described, it took me longer to put the 3rd nightmare starter bolt in than the entire Quick time bell installation.
 

brian97cobra

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Do you have pictures you can post here? It seems you had some abnormal fitment isues. I can tell you that all scatter shields require work to fit properly. I did the same centering process Oldmodman described, it took me longer to put the 3rd nightmare starter bolt in than the entire Quick time bell installation.

I use a long extension with a wobble socket to get that 3ed bolt in with no issues. my wobble socket I added a small magnet inside it to hold the head of the bolt so it does not fall off.
 

Snake Plissken

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I installed a QuickTime about 2500 miles ago. A few weeks ago I 'jumped' on it leaving a stop light (not that much, nothing out of the ordinary. No shift lights on.) and then BIG time noise coming from what I think is the tranny (area) I just jacked it up today to take a quick look, maybe something loose, misaligned or just didn't look right. Nope, visually everything looks good outside and through the inspection hole. Fork seems to be sitting where it should be and moves back-n-forth the way it should.

Now, I'm sure it was a F-up on my part and not smart, but I never indexed the QuickTime. The bell fit 'fine' the starter installed ok and never made a funky sound when starting. The only thing I had to do was remove the 'bump out' for the starter on the QuickTime because of BBK long tubes. No big deal I've heard of this when it came to certain long tubes, besides it can be welded back on if need be later.

I haven't dropped the tranny yet to investigate, but I've got a bad feeling I'm paying for that F-up now....
 

D-MANN

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I installed a QuickTime about 2500 miles ago. A few weeks ago I 'jumped' on it leaving a stop light (not that much, nothing out of the ordinary. No shift lights on.) and then BIG time noise coming from what I think is the tranny (area) I just jacked it up today to take a quick look, maybe something loose, misaligned or just didn't look right. Nope, visually everything looks good outside and through the inspection hole. Fork seems to be sitting where it should be and moves back-n-forth the way it should.

Now, I'm sure it was a F-up on my part and not smart, but I never indexed the QuickTime. The bell fit 'fine' the starter installed ok and never made a funky sound when starting. The only thing I had to do was remove the 'bump out' for the starter on the QuickTime because of BBK long tubes. No big deal I've heard of this when it came to certain long tubes, besides it can be welded back on if need be later.

I haven't dropped the tranny yet to investigate, but I've got a bad feeling I'm paying for that F-up now....

Ever figure out what happened? Any issues with cutting out the bump area around the starter?have a pic of how much you cut out?
 

SlowSVT

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A deep drawn bell housing is going to have a hard time beating the die cast factory unit with regard to precision. Ford actually has a procedure to measure the block/bell housing for alignment which is pretty involved. I have yet to hear of a mod motor clutch explosion which happens when it overheats. Unless I'm racing where a scatter shield is required this is one area where your money is better spent elsewhere.

This is a much better safety device to have in the car and is way more likely to save you or someone else.

http://www.h3rperformance.com/hg250r.htm
 

oldmodman

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Agreed.

I keep a five pound Halon bottle within easy reach and I am trying to figure out a way to hard mount steel line with three spray heads to kill any engine compartment fire. I have plenty of full halon bottles. So it will be easy to adapt one as a cable operated fire bottle.
There is a company that scraps entire office buildings and factories and they always have quite a few halon bottle for sale. Last one I got from them was a fifty pound bottle, fully charged too.
 

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