Retrofitting a '13 GT500 carbon fiber driveshaft to an '07-'12 GT500
- Thread starter Tob
- Start date
http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/PartDetail.aspx?n=KPILa9EgkSKXw1ZTz9uHng==&id=400805549&m=2&search=true&year=2014&make=Ford&model=Mustang
dealer list went down 50 bucks
http://parts.autonationfordwhitebea...t/propeller-shaft-scat/?part_name=drive-shaft
Autonation has it at 1,081
dealer list went down 50 bucks
http://parts.autonationfordwhitebea...t/propeller-shaft-scat/?part_name=drive-shaft
Autonation has it at 1,081
i had '12 retrofitted this year with the Ford OEM '14 CF takeoff. I snagged one for $399 from Shelby America. The adaptor was obtained from Wenstrom Design Fabricators for around $325. The adaptor looks great black powder coated and well designed. The car seems to run smoother at higher speeds/ rpm. Thanks for info Tob....great upgrade!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I had a discussion at PRI with some from Ford Racing about this missed opportunity. I honestly don't think they get it. They are actually releasing an aluminum driveshaft for the GT500 (including the 13/14). I once again laid out a business case on their behalf and got some unexpected responses. They didn't sound as if they fully comprehended the opportunity. Very odd.
Hi Everyone, I'm in the middle of the CF driveshaft retrofit on my 2008. Where does the o-ring/seal go that is shown in post 287?
Also, where are the torque values published?
Edit: Found it. 55 Nm (41 lb-ft) at each end.
Also, where are the torque values published?
Edit: Found it. 55 Nm (41 lb-ft) at each end.
Last edited:
What tool did you use to pull the old flange?
I used the loaner puller tool from Autozone that looks likes the one in post #259. It worked like a charm. It came off very easy. I thought the center bolt was still seating, but it had already started to pull the flange off. Then I took the flange to a local machine shop (Herb's Machine Shop in Cincinnati) to have him press off the heavy damper ring that is no longer needed. That too came off very easy. You need to get the damper ring off in order to be able to attach Tom's CF driveshaft adapter. I also loaned a 32mm (equivalent to 1-1/4") socket from Autozone to remove the flange nut.
PS - make sure to clean the metal savings from between the teeth of the flange and replace the o-ring. The o-ring goes on the inside at the base of the flange.
PS - make sure to clean the metal savings from between the teeth of the flange and replace the o-ring. The o-ring goes on the inside at the base of the flange.
Last edited:
Currently have 4 of these adapters left and one sale pending, so maybe only 3. I'm probably not going to make any more in the future, so get these last couple before they're gone!
Anyone looking to upgrade this part of their driveline should seriously consider going this route. I'm surprised there are a few left & thank you BlackBolt9 for doing all the R/D & getting these made. I love the way the driveline feels, much quieter then the 2 piece driveshaft & sets you up for serious power. I'm sure the lost in transfer of power is greatly reduced with this setup compared to the 2 piece. This setup is much safer then the OEM 2 piece as well. Haven't had any issues and a very straightforward installation. A 13/14 carbon fiber driveshaft is what this adapter accommodates.
Cheers,
Ray
Cheers,
Ray
@Tob whats youre opinion on the Driveshaft shop's gt500 CF offering?
I know i have been critical of this upgrade in the past because i wasnt sure of a CF shaft's durability on the street (debris being kicked up etc). However, it seems that the concerns i had have been proven false.
I currently have a DSS aluminum shaft thats served me well. However, as my power goes up and a swap to a 6R80 isnt financially feasable, the idea of a CF shaft that can absorb some of the hit at launch is extremely appealing to me. The longevity to my driveline's health it could provide makes this an upgrade i cant ignore anymore.
I know i have been critical of this upgrade in the past because i wasnt sure of a CF shaft's durability on the street (debris being kicked up etc). However, it seems that the concerns i had have been proven false.
I currently have a DSS aluminum shaft thats served me well. However, as my power goes up and a swap to a 6R80 isnt financially feasable, the idea of a CF shaft that can absorb some of the hit at launch is extremely appealing to me. The longevity to my driveline's health it could provide makes this an upgrade i cant ignore anymore.
@Tob can you update anyone just reading this for the first time with a components list needed for this mod?
mike97gt
New Member
How much are you asking for them? Willing to ship to Canada?
PM me a price please
Nice piece but I'm a huge fan of the factory effort in this case. I like how Ford used splined yoke tubes as opposed to a bonding agent on a relatively smooth yoke face.
You can source the flange nut and bolts from your dealer. Capscrews are needed to fasten Tom's flange to your factory flange as well as the front CV joint to Tom's flange. Bolt sizes as well as the factory flange nut part number are all shown earlier in this thread. Mcmaster-Carr is your best bet for obtaining the capscrews.
Im sure its been asked but if not here goes.
Can the output shaft flange of the 11-12 Tr-6060 be replaced with that of a 2013-14?
The pinion yoke on the rear end is easy enough to replace with a Trinity peice
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using the svtperformance.com mobile app
Can the output shaft flange of the 11-12 Tr-6060 be replaced with that of a 2013-14?
The pinion yoke on the rear end is easy enough to replace with a Trinity peice
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using the svtperformance.com mobile app
Last edited:
No... spline count is different from what I'm reading?
Users who are viewing this thread
