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New Edge Cobras
Replacing the Mach 460
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<blockquote data-quote="NoahConstrictor" data-source="post: 15885702" data-attributes="member: 190621"><p>I recently installed a pioneer AVH-2300NEX. I would look into one without a built in GPS. Many head units have android auto/apple car play. When you plug the phone in, it allows you to answer your phone, and access the navigation app in your phone on the stereos screen. Saves a lot of money over a built in receiver.</p><p></p><p>I opted for a subwoofer install, and personally, even if you don’t want to “bump”, it will improve the sound of the other speakers by isolating the low frequency bass to the woofer.</p><p></p><p>That being said, I used a pioneer GM-D9605 5-channel amplifier to power everything, and mounted it to the under side of the rear deck. Most amps are too large for the factory locations, so I drilled pilot holes out and mounted it dead center on the box.</p><p></p><p>For the doors, I used the JL Audio C2-525 component kit. Contains two crossovers, two tweeters, and two 5-1/4” mid-bass woofers. The hardest thing to do here is mount the crossover. They are not small, and our cars offer little extra room. The stock tweeters are also not true tweeters(2-1/2” I think). When I mounted mine, I destroyed my stock tweeters, by removing the cone and magnet from the metal frame, and superglued my new 3/4” tweeters onto the frame and mounted them in the stock enclosures. The 5-1/4” woofers also require an adapter to fit the 5x7 hole($7).</p><p></p><p>In my rear deck I used JBL GT7-86 5x7’s. Direct fit.</p><p></p><p>In the trunk, I built a sealed enclosure for a 10” sub. I prefer sealed enclosures because the bass is tighter and they take up much less space. I used a JL Audio 10w3v3-4.</p><p></p><p>Running wire is a serious pain in this car. There is not much room to spare. I’m 6’ tall so I found myself a practicing contortionist crawling around the back seat to remove the trim.</p><p></p><p>The kick panels, door panels, rocker panels, and all the trim around the rear seat and rear window need to be removed(or at least undone and pushed enough out of the way). The bottom bolt on the floor for the front seat belt also needs to be undone. Otherwise you won’t get underneath the carpet. If I did it again, I would also remove the front seats, to make the job easier.</p><p></p><p>I made my own rca cables, as I couldn’t find any that were really up to snuff for me, and I wrapped them in copper tape and then soldered a ground to either end of the tape to aid in interference.</p><p>I also ran a ground between the amp and head unit to level them out. If you do this, be sure to put a fuse in this wire towards the amp for protection.</p><p>Beware of purchasing wire online. A lot of what is being sold now is not copper wire, but is actually copper clad aluminum and many sellers misrepresent their products. If the price seems good, it’s probably CCA.</p><p>You will most likely have to drill a hole in the firewall to run the power cable. I would seal this very well to prevent water from getting in the car.</p><p></p><p>Overall my set up looks stock, short of the small sub box and larger amp centered under the bottom side of the deck. It performs very well, and can reach volumes I would never subject my ears to. The apple car play/android auto is extremely convenient. I ran a USB port into my center console underneath the factory power outlet, and it looks like it came that way. I didn’t install the rear view camera, but it wouldn’t have been much more difficult. It took me about a week of afternoons to get it done, but I could’ve done it in a weekend. I probably spent close to $1,200 for everything. I used crutchfield to source the parts that fit, and then took those part numbers on amazon to save about $300.</p><p></p><p>I will post you some pictures when I get my car back from getting tuned later this week.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="NoahConstrictor, post: 15885702, member: 190621"] I recently installed a pioneer AVH-2300NEX. I would look into one without a built in GPS. Many head units have android auto/apple car play. When you plug the phone in, it allows you to answer your phone, and access the navigation app in your phone on the stereos screen. Saves a lot of money over a built in receiver. I opted for a subwoofer install, and personally, even if you don’t want to “bump”, it will improve the sound of the other speakers by isolating the low frequency bass to the woofer. That being said, I used a pioneer GM-D9605 5-channel amplifier to power everything, and mounted it to the under side of the rear deck. Most amps are too large for the factory locations, so I drilled pilot holes out and mounted it dead center on the box. For the doors, I used the JL Audio C2-525 component kit. Contains two crossovers, two tweeters, and two 5-1/4” mid-bass woofers. The hardest thing to do here is mount the crossover. They are not small, and our cars offer little extra room. The stock tweeters are also not true tweeters(2-1/2” I think). When I mounted mine, I destroyed my stock tweeters, by removing the cone and magnet from the metal frame, and superglued my new 3/4” tweeters onto the frame and mounted them in the stock enclosures. The 5-1/4” woofers also require an adapter to fit the 5x7 hole($7). In my rear deck I used JBL GT7-86 5x7’s. Direct fit. In the trunk, I built a sealed enclosure for a 10” sub. I prefer sealed enclosures because the bass is tighter and they take up much less space. I used a JL Audio 10w3v3-4. Running wire is a serious pain in this car. There is not much room to spare. I’m 6’ tall so I found myself a practicing contortionist crawling around the back seat to remove the trim. The kick panels, door panels, rocker panels, and all the trim around the rear seat and rear window need to be removed(or at least undone and pushed enough out of the way). The bottom bolt on the floor for the front seat belt also needs to be undone. Otherwise you won’t get underneath the carpet. If I did it again, I would also remove the front seats, to make the job easier. I made my own rca cables, as I couldn’t find any that were really up to snuff for me, and I wrapped them in copper tape and then soldered a ground to either end of the tape to aid in interference. I also ran a ground between the amp and head unit to level them out. If you do this, be sure to put a fuse in this wire towards the amp for protection. Beware of purchasing wire online. A lot of what is being sold now is not copper wire, but is actually copper clad aluminum and many sellers misrepresent their products. If the price seems good, it’s probably CCA. You will most likely have to drill a hole in the firewall to run the power cable. I would seal this very well to prevent water from getting in the car. Overall my set up looks stock, short of the small sub box and larger amp centered under the bottom side of the deck. It performs very well, and can reach volumes I would never subject my ears to. The apple car play/android auto is extremely convenient. I ran a USB port into my center console underneath the factory power outlet, and it looks like it came that way. I didn’t install the rear view camera, but it wouldn’t have been much more difficult. It took me about a week of afternoons to get it done, but I could’ve done it in a weekend. I probably spent close to $1,200 for everything. I used crutchfield to source the parts that fit, and then took those part numbers on amazon to save about $300. I will post you some pictures when I get my car back from getting tuned later this week. [/QUOTE]
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