I wonder if the rear tweeters are the same as the front door tweeters? I have a convertible, and rear tweeters were never installed.
...and I always look forward to meeting members.
Sent from my [device_name] using the svtperformance.com mobile app
Replacing the Mach 460
- Thread starter 52merc
- Start date
...and I always look forward to meeting members.
Sent from my [device_name] using the svtperformance.com mobile app
If it’s a Mach 460, there should be tweeters in the boxes behind the panels on either side of the rear seats.
I had a 98 convertible, so they should be about the same in the new edge. I would be curious, if there are no tweeters, if there is anything to hook them up to. The speakers in the rear are the same as the front.
Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app
I had a 98 convertible, so they should be about the same in the new edge. I would be curious, if there are no tweeters, if there is anything to hook them up to. The speakers in the rear are the same as the front.
Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app
I have yet to look behind the rear panels.
I do know that I have a tweeter rattling. I changed the head unit, but I do not want the expense of changing out the entire system right now. I'm trying to replace parts that I can as they start to fail.
I really need to install a sub at some point, but I'm not sure where I would put the thing.
Sent from my [device_name] using the svtperformance.com mobile app
I've "tuned" a little more and I'm pretty happy with the results. The Pioneer AVIC-8200NEX is working very well. The touch screen is easy to use. It does reflect a lot of light if the sun shines directly on the screen, but I guess this would happen with any display.
Although the bass is pretty good, I'm thinking of adding a sub. The bass just doesn't sound as good as my F150 (with premium sound which includes a sub). The Rockford Fosgate P2D2-10 is what I'm considering. I'll build a custom sealed box to fit into the right side of the trunk in the "recess" that is there. That way it shouldn't take up too much space and the rest of the system isd already in place. Just have to flip a switch, turn subwoofer on at the head, and tune.
I can crank the head unit to full volume without hearing any distortion (part of R-F tuning procedure if the head unit can handle it) but I normally listed to it at about 1/3. There are still some things to adjust. The operations manual is huge and it will take me some time to read (and digest) it all.
As I mentioned before, this was much more work than I originally anticipated, but was not over complicated. Designing and building the speaker adapter brackets is something that requires some fabrication skill (and tools) but was reasonably straight forward. Installing the wiring required gutting the interior and spending about as much time planning the routing as actually pulling wires. So far I would rate this upgrade as an 8.5 out of ten (just because I'm really a perfectionist with this type of stuff).
Although the bass is pretty good, I'm thinking of adding a sub. The bass just doesn't sound as good as my F150 (with premium sound which includes a sub). The Rockford Fosgate P2D2-10 is what I'm considering. I'll build a custom sealed box to fit into the right side of the trunk in the "recess" that is there. That way it shouldn't take up too much space and the rest of the system isd already in place. Just have to flip a switch, turn subwoofer on at the head, and tune.
I can crank the head unit to full volume without hearing any distortion (part of R-F tuning procedure if the head unit can handle it) but I normally listed to it at about 1/3. There are still some things to adjust. The operations manual is huge and it will take me some time to read (and digest) it all.
As I mentioned before, this was much more work than I originally anticipated, but was not over complicated. Designing and building the speaker adapter brackets is something that requires some fabrication skill (and tools) but was reasonably straight forward. Installing the wiring required gutting the interior and spending about as much time planning the routing as actually pulling wires. So far I would rate this upgrade as an 8.5 out of ten (just because I'm really a perfectionist with this type of stuff).
You're not alone. I am an OCD perfectionist.
Sent from my [device_name] using the svtperformance.com mobile app
Sent from my [device_name] using the svtperformance.com mobile app
@NoahConstrictor I will be in your part of GA tomorrow.
Sent from my [device_name] using the svtperformance.com mobile app
Sent from my [device_name] using the svtperformance.com mobile app
Mounting the R600X5 amp was really easy. I reused the OE sound box as was my plan. I removed the original amp protector "wall" from the sound box.
I purchased 3 ft of 0.75" square aluminum tubing from Home Depot. I drilled large holes (big enough for the original amp mounting screws to go through) on the bottom side and small holes on the top side. I drilled pilot holes in the sound box and mounted the 2 brackets. The large holes allow the screw to go through the one side of the tubing and tighten up on the other leaving them countersunk in the tubing. I cut-off the ends of the tubing at 45, drilled holes for the amp mounting screws. I positioned the amp with about 2" extending ahead of the sound box. It fits nicely where the PS OE amp was mounted. The OE screws are for plastic with special threads and bite well. This mounting offers cooling on all sides of the amp.
The finished sound box is shown below. I made my own speaker adapter plates and lucked out with the crossover mounting. I am very happy with how this turned out.
I purchased 3 ft of 0.75" square aluminum tubing from Home Depot. I drilled large holes (big enough for the original amp mounting screws to go through) on the bottom side and small holes on the top side. I drilled pilot holes in the sound box and mounted the 2 brackets. The large holes allow the screw to go through the one side of the tubing and tighten up on the other leaving them countersunk in the tubing. I cut-off the ends of the tubing at 45, drilled holes for the amp mounting screws. I positioned the amp with about 2" extending ahead of the sound box. It fits nicely where the PS OE amp was mounted. The OE screws are for plastic with special threads and bite well. This mounting offers cooling on all sides of the amp.
The finished sound box is shown below. I made my own speaker adapter plates and lucked out with the crossover mounting. I am very happy with how this turned out.
I only have one camera and its rear mounted so I can show you a view from that. I have not turned on or calibrated the parking aid yet. Maybe tomorrow I'll have some time to do that for you.
This is a picture of the backup camera image with the parking guide turned on and calibrated. I'm almost exactly 2 m (6.5 ft) from the garage entrance. It is bright sunshine. I think the camera does a good job of the contrast as you can still see some details inside the garage even though there are no lights on. The image at night is not bad bu I don't have a night picture yet.
You can reverse the image in the settings I you want. The parking guide does not change with your steering like my F150 does, but it should still be helpful.
Subscribing, this is exactly what I want to do with mine eventually minus the touchscreen. Looks really good though, re-using the factory soundbox is legit and looks like you did a CLEAN install.
I thought I'd give an update on this project. After a lot of adjusting I got the sound to be what I wanted. It sounds so much better than the OE Mach 460 system. Even at that, I decided, having already installed everything I need, to get a sub-woofer and complete the project. I got a great deal from Amazon on a Rockford Fosgate P3D4-10 and already started making a custom enclosure for it.
I finished the subwoofer installation. The enclosure is 3/4" MDF, glued and screwed, then covered in some "Trunk Liner" carpet I got at Canadian Tire. The enclosure is 0.58 cuft which is within Rockford Fosgate recommendation for the P3D4-10. I designed the cabinet to tuck into the corner of the trunk so it tales up as little room as necessary. Sounds great. My bass is stronger than before and I think I may have to turn the gain down a little on the amp. I got a little too generous with the gain. The pictures below show the finished enclosure, then the installation. I made a bracket which uses the exposed "studs" from the trunk lid hinges and holds the cabinet in place.
Dude... that's professional as ****...
If you have the dimensions of all the pieces for that box I'd be super grateful...
If you have the dimensions of all the pieces for that box I'd be super grateful...
Material is 0.75" MDF. The hole for the terminal panel is not shown and will depend on what you get for that. This cabinet size is good for a sealed box using the RF P3D4-10. The RF website (and many others as well) gives the required volumes for sealed and vented boxes. I inserted my terminal panel in the upper part of the left hand 45 and wired it for 2 ohm.
Any time. That is why I subscribe to this forum. Learn and help.
I made a similar one for a 12" Solobaric, back in '05.
http://s2.photobucket.com/user/badass98svt/
http://s2.photobucket.com/user/badass98svt/
Can't get the link to work.
Little thread revival. Just curious, how did you mount the rear camera? Everything I looked at required me to drill a hole to run the camera wire through.
Users who are viewing this thread
