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The Terminator
How-To
Replacing the caged lower pulley bushings
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<blockquote data-quote="pkwest" data-source="post: 16718121" data-attributes="member: 40724"><p>I imagine everyone with the stock caged lower is going to need replace their bushings sooner than later. Others have done this by unscrewing the tribar (left hand threads). I tried this method but no way it would come apart even with excessive heat. This is the solution my friend/machinist brett at Nimmo Machine came up with. He is a genius, I really like how by removing three bolts I can insert new ones if needed again. He said the poly bushing material should be able to pushed in by hand. If it gives you trouble, two fender washers, a nut and a long bolt could be used to pull it into the hole. He torqued the bolts into his inserts to 40 ft lbs without loctite on the threads so I could remove them if needed. He said the rubber held the insert from turning when he tightened them. He did put a drop of penetrating loctite externally. He also made witness lines so I can verify they don't loosen. </p><p>[ATTACH=full]1734125[/ATTACH]</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1734126[/ATTACH]</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1734127[/ATTACH]</p><p>It required drilling out the original pins.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1734128[/ATTACH]</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1734129[/ATTACH]</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1734130[/ATTACH]</p><p>I found the poly bushing material I used from a previous post on svtperformance. Do not use silicone as others have found out. It was said silicone cuts much easier. you don't want bushings that cut easily.</p><p>Abrasion-Resistant Polyurethane Rubber Round Tube</p><p>6" Long, 1-1/4" OD, 1/2" ID, 60A Durometer</p><p>mcmaster part number <a href="https://www.mcmaster.com/#87235K122" target="_blank">87235K122</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="pkwest, post: 16718121, member: 40724"] I imagine everyone with the stock caged lower is going to need replace their bushings sooner than later. Others have done this by unscrewing the tribar (left hand threads). I tried this method but no way it would come apart even with excessive heat. This is the solution my friend/machinist brett at Nimmo Machine came up with. He is a genius, I really like how by removing three bolts I can insert new ones if needed again. He said the poly bushing material should be able to pushed in by hand. If it gives you trouble, two fender washers, a nut and a long bolt could be used to pull it into the hole. He torqued the bolts into his inserts to 40 ft lbs without loctite on the threads so I could remove them if needed. He said the rubber held the insert from turning when he tightened them. He did put a drop of penetrating loctite externally. He also made witness lines so I can verify they don't loosen. [ATTACH type="full"]1734125[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full"]1734126[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full"]1734127[/ATTACH] It required drilling out the original pins. [ATTACH type="full"]1734128[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full"]1734129[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full"]1734130[/ATTACH] I found the poly bushing material I used from a previous post on svtperformance. Do not use silicone as others have found out. It was said silicone cuts much easier. you don't want bushings that cut easily. Abrasion-Resistant Polyurethane Rubber Round Tube 6" Long, 1-1/4" OD, 1/2" ID, 60A Durometer mcmaster part number [URL='https://www.mcmaster.com/#87235K122']87235K122[/URL] [/QUOTE]
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Replacing the caged lower pulley bushings
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