Here is how I replaced the rear brake pads on my 2007 GT500.
Here is a list of tools and supplies used for the install:
1. 3/8" drive ratchet handle with extensions as needed
2. Metric Sockets: 13mm standard
3. Torque Wrench - 3/8" drive
4. Brake caliper tool
Notes: Prior to starting I had washed the wheels to reduce the dust and wore a particle mask to avoid breathing in the dust (nasty stuff).
I also released the parking brake prior to starting.
Remove the two guide pin bolts with a 13mm socket. Then remove and secure the caliper with a short bungee cord. See the fifth picture below for a suggested anchor point.
I understand you don't need to remove the lower bolt to replace the pads; perhaps just loosen enough to allow the caliper to swing out. This way the caliper is more stable when resetting the piston. But I removed both bolts when I replaced my pads.
Here is the caliper tool I used to reset the piston; got it at Harbor Freight for about $20. I used the #5 adapter plate, whose pins fit the keyed notches on the piston surface.
You have to turn the piston in a clockwise direction while applying forward pressure with the tool. The backing plate on the tool pushes against the opposite side of the caliper while turning the handle. It can take substantial force to turn the pistons; wearing mechanics gloves while turning the handle helps. My hands are still aching.
Here's what the piston looks like when compressed back into the caliper.
The piston must be oriented so the key slots are as shown here to fit into an alignment pin on the back of the inboard brake pad (the pin is circled on the outboard pad below).
Remove the old brake pads and spring clips.
Assemble in reverse with new pads and spring clips then replace the caliper and snug down the guide pin bolts. My Ford Shop Manual only advised application of caliper grease on the guide pins (if they needed to be replaced). When I disassembled the brakes it appeared that Ford did not apply any grease on the shim backing of the OEM brake pads so I didn't apply any grease either.
There is a flat spot on the opening of the guide pins that must be aligned with a flat edge on the caliper mounting flange as shown here.
Torque down the guide pin bolts to 24 lb-ft in the following order:
* RH caliper - tighten top bolt and then the bottom bolt
* LH caliper - tighten bottom bolt and then the top bolt
Here's what the rear brake looks like all assembled.
Caution: After servicing the brakes, be sure to pump the brakes as many times as needed to make sure they are firm and effective before putting the car into gear.
Here is a list of tools and supplies used for the install:
1. 3/8" drive ratchet handle with extensions as needed
2. Metric Sockets: 13mm standard
3. Torque Wrench - 3/8" drive
4. Brake caliper tool
Notes: Prior to starting I had washed the wheels to reduce the dust and wore a particle mask to avoid breathing in the dust (nasty stuff).
I also released the parking brake prior to starting.
Remove the two guide pin bolts with a 13mm socket. Then remove and secure the caliper with a short bungee cord. See the fifth picture below for a suggested anchor point.
I understand you don't need to remove the lower bolt to replace the pads; perhaps just loosen enough to allow the caliper to swing out. This way the caliper is more stable when resetting the piston. But I removed both bolts when I replaced my pads.
Here is the caliper tool I used to reset the piston; got it at Harbor Freight for about $20. I used the #5 adapter plate, whose pins fit the keyed notches on the piston surface.
You have to turn the piston in a clockwise direction while applying forward pressure with the tool. The backing plate on the tool pushes against the opposite side of the caliper while turning the handle. It can take substantial force to turn the pistons; wearing mechanics gloves while turning the handle helps. My hands are still aching.
Here's what the piston looks like when compressed back into the caliper.
The piston must be oriented so the key slots are as shown here to fit into an alignment pin on the back of the inboard brake pad (the pin is circled on the outboard pad below).
Remove the old brake pads and spring clips.
Assemble in reverse with new pads and spring clips then replace the caliper and snug down the guide pin bolts. My Ford Shop Manual only advised application of caliper grease on the guide pins (if they needed to be replaced). When I disassembled the brakes it appeared that Ford did not apply any grease on the shim backing of the OEM brake pads so I didn't apply any grease either.
There is a flat spot on the opening of the guide pins that must be aligned with a flat edge on the caliper mounting flange as shown here.
Torque down the guide pin bolts to 24 lb-ft in the following order:
* RH caliper - tighten top bolt and then the bottom bolt
* LH caliper - tighten bottom bolt and then the top bolt
Here's what the rear brake looks like all assembled.
Caution: After servicing the brakes, be sure to pump the brakes as many times as needed to make sure they are firm and effective before putting the car into gear.
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