Recommendation on best and most experienced shop for Terminator engine major repair in Northeast?

GoGreen04

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I just had something similar but at 50k miles with my cobra. I went with the reputable best and most experienced, L&M Engines. Michael and his team are very responsive, sent plenty of photos throughout the process, and brought up their opinions/ recommendations when we tore into it. They really care about their work and their customers. That goes a long way for me. I would imagine they are a bit on the pricier side, but I believe they are worth every penny.

We kept the stock block. They decked and bored it. Custom diamond pistons, custom cams, I beam rods, ARP everything, reworked heads, new crank, bearings, oil pump, timing, etc. Everything got touched. The motor is going back in the car next month and will be getting an upgrade to the 3.0 Whipple from the ported Eaton. I am very excited to see/ feel the difference.
 

Venom351R

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If you're close to Mass pete will recommend Cobra Dan, if you are further north and closer to Maine he will recommend Aaron at DRK Performance. Aaron has done a lot of work on my Cobra and it's a really good shop. But from what I know they are not taking on any new customers due to a backlog. Luckily I have enough of an "in" so I can still get mine taken care of in the off season.
 

mike69440

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petes cousin not interested , motor out f car. need to bring to a good motor rebuilder.

Where is Cobra Dan located? Email , Tel.? thanks
I just had something similar but at 50k miles with my cobra. I went with the reputable best and most experienced, L&M Engines. Michael and his team are very responsive, sent plenty of photos throughout the process, and brought up their opinions/ recommendations when we tore into it. They really care about their work and their customers. That goes a long way for me. I would imagine they are a bit on the pricier side, but I believe they are worth every penny.

We kept the stock block. They decked and bored it. Custom diamond pistons, custom cams, I beam rods, ARP everything, reworked heads, new crank, bearings, oil pump, timing, etc. Everything got touched. The motor is going back in the car next month and will be getting an upgrade to the 3.0 Whipple from the ported Eaton. I am very excited to see/ feel the difference.
I will speak to L&M. Thanks to all.
 

03' White Snake

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Back in 08-09 time frame, Bob at CE racing built all of the local guys engines around here. He was the best of the best. Did all of Dez’s engines etc. Bob is not around any more. He used ABT machine in Holliston MA. I’ve had a few short blocks done there. Great work, but they are not going to do anything with the car, just the engine. Slow service, but quality work.

I would not let Dez near your car. My friend worked there for a few years, the horror stories I’ve seen and heard turned me away. There are plenty of nut swingers that will argue differently.

P.S. Good bump on the thread from 07’
 
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01vert

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Get ahold of Cobra Dan. He may be too busy but he does use PK machine in Leominster Ma for modular rebuilds. PK will only build a complete motor though. Getting the motor in and out is Dan or someone else.
 

mike69440

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Holmes Auto repair pulled the engine and PK is doing the engine rebuild.
None of these guys have a big internet presence as they have all the work they want.
So far I feel comfortable. Lot of experience with the Terminator motors as well as everything else.
My heart still goes pity patty over Big Block Mopars. Wonder what ever happened to my old 518Cu In Stroker motor?
 

mike69440

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My motor is finally apart. Here is what I found.
My engine was starting to stumble when I loaded it up over 6,000 RPM or so, as the Iridium Plugs w had about 35,000 miles on the. After installing new plugs I decided to test in out with a hard pull. One day last year I ran the car up an on ramp, full bore in 2nd gear, trying to keep the car pointed straight, not watching the tach, figuring my ear and butt would tell me when to shift. Misjudged and I think was at about 86-87 mph before getting out of it and shifting to third. Normally the tunes rev limiter kicks in at 6,800 RPM or about 81-82 MPH. I thought I dodged a bullet! I heard a tick at idle but did not consider that too abnormal A few weeks later the tick gradually turned into a knock.
The rest of motor in great Shape for a boosted engine with 106,000 miles. bearings look great., etc. One cylinder wall is scuffed. In the old days with a small block Chevy, you would just quickie hone the block, & install new rings and pistons, and toss it back together with just new gaskets and a timing chain. This 4.6 Rebuild is going to be expensive. PK machine uses Diamond Pistons. Is it worth having the skirts coated?
Any recommendation aside from Upgrading the valvetrain, new Ford Chain , etc. What bearings is found to work best? Stock Ford looked great. If fine with the 600 HP it always had, so not thinking of doing port or or cams.
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mike69440

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Just one more thing. I've been running a BAP and stock fuel pump for 15 years. (ME BAD!) I did run a heavy gauge wire to the fuel pump and my alternator cranks out the amps. No problems with tune on street driven vehicle (until if failed). It was suggest I ditch the BAP and go with some real fuel pumps.

For supporting a minimum of 600 HP, what is the correct way to supply the motor with enough fuel in all situations?
Also:
Street Clutch recommendation for 600 HP?
 

03' White Snake

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Nick is a great guy and knows what he’s doing. Your cars in good hands.

Minimum Ford GT pumps if you want to stay returnless. Easiest way is to add aftermarket fuel hat for these. If not, go budget return from Lethal.

I had my skirts and piston tops hard coat anodized because I run E85 all the time. I’d suggest getting moly coated skirts, will save on wear during cold starts. I’d also bump the compression to 9:0-9:5 with the new pistons.

I did Ford Racing timing kit. No complaints. Upgrade all fasteners to ARP, headstuds, mains, side bolts. You will have a stout motor capable of 900+ hp.
 

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